Stopover near Bokod in Hungary

It is 04:00 at night when we set up our roof tent in Bokod. Before that we have crossed half of Germany, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. After four hours of sleep, the first rays of sunlight wake us up around 08:00, heating up the roof tent. We get ready and set out on the only a few meters wide way to the “floating” village of the Bokodi lake.

Here, a couple has been working for 10 years to make the former fishing village, whose houses are built on stilts in the lake, more attractive and visible to tourists. They invite us to their house, or more precisely, their roof terrace and make us a fresh coffee. That was a good stop!

The hot springs of Loutra Pozar

Around 11 o’clock in Hungary it was all hands on board, Ralfi wants to go to Greece. With our next destination in mind, we continued our journey towards Loutra Pozar. Still in the same evening we wanted to cross the Greek border, in order to start the next morning with a bath in the hot springs. At about 1:00 a.m., after what felt like an endless and tiring drive, we actually reached our destination. Although the last 1 1/2 hours of driving through mountain roads made our adrenaline shoot up once again, we were glad when we finally found a nice spot and pitched our tent. Listening to the soothing sound of water, we and our dogs all quickly fell asleep.

The next morning we quickly exchanged our sleeping clothes for bathing outfits to dive into the hot springs. A bath in the middle of nature, surrounded by forest, stone and birdsong, can there be a more beautiful start to the day? We treated ourselves to another frappé and fed cute little street dogs before continuing our journey.

Salt pans of Pydna near Katerini

Upon our arrival in Katerini, our first stop was Tsipouro Meze. In this form of lunch, you order the Greek pomace brandy Tsipouro and receive various delicacies of Greek cuisine.

For digestion and a little nap, we then drove to the salt pans of Pydna. Parts of the salt pans are freely accessible and bathing in the brine is allowed at a designated spot. The high salt content means that one is carried more in the water than in normal bathing water. In addition, the salt bath is good against skin impurities, mosquito bites and supposedly good against joint ailments.

For the first time we could drive with our “Ralfi” directly to the beach. We unfolded the awning (Quick Pitch Awning) and rested a little in the fresh sea breeze. Truffle and Pelle sniffed the Aegean sea air for the first time.

Such a beach day and sea air can make quite hungry, so we decided to go to the tavern “The Koutouki Nikolas” (Το Κουτούκι του Νικόλα) for dinner. It is one of Daniel’s favorite restaurants, so the anticipation was huge. After 5 years of abstinence, it was back to Snow White salad and deep fried pork. We discovered that the peperonis were actually VERY spicy and enjoyed our first Greek wine. Without Autan, however, the evening would have been only half as nice.

On the way there for dinner, we had already noticed a beautiful place on the beach and campers who were already there. The app park4night helped us once again to find a beautiful place to camp “wild”. It followed our first night on the beach, with the sound of the sea and a magnificent view of Mount Olympus and its shining nearby cities.

Over our coffee the next morning we met Stelios. A nice older Greek man who just came from his night shift and wanted to enjoy the sunrise. We got to talking and exchanged ideas about the working conditions in Greece and Germany, among other things.

Offroad to Mount Olympus

After both the excavation sites at Dion and the mountain village of Pantaleimonas were overrun by groups of students and spoiled our mood properly, we decided on the spot rather to go to Mount Olympus. Here we should have our peace and at the same time we can test what our Ralfi can do. Before we went to the top, we visited the crystal clear waterfall Orlias. Surrounded by frogs and tadpoles we dipped our 12 feet into the cold mountain water.

After cooling down, it was time for Ralfi and Daniel to get to work. While Michelle cleared the path of sharp stones and hanging branches, Daniel drove our Ralfi safely on unpaved gravel roads towards “Koromilia Refuge Olympus”. At the top we met a bachelor party and thus got to know a troop of funny young men from Israel. We offered them all a chilled beer and exchanged some stories. It was a great encounter!

If this is not paradise, where is it?

Gallaria

When Daniel was last in Greece in 2017, a bar was just built in the old train tunnel on the beach of Pantaleimonas. Years before even the Orient Express passed through this tunnel, today exactly in the same place you can find an industrial bar with charm and pretty good cocktails. We tried our way through the cocktail menu, were spoiled with strawberries and pears and found new friends here as well. But it wasn’t just us, our dogs got found new buddies as well. Dear John Ziakas, thank you for the warm evening and the tequila. We like to follow your guitar skills on Instagram and on our next trip to Greece we will definitely enjoy your hospitality again. Last but not least, we were allowed to pitch our tent in the parking lot, perfect!

The next morning should start a little relaxed before the onward journey. We took two loungers on the beach and enjoyed a frappé. Just let the soul dangle before the next longer distance waiting for us.

What was to follow after this harmonious morning was anything but relaxed. Michelle had considered a beautiful route from Pantaleimonas to Paralia Agii Saranta. It should go far from the Google Maps navigation, rather directly along the coast. Let’s put it this way, that we are still alive today and writing this report, seems like a miracle. Through a kilometer-long unsecured construction site in serpentine form, over sharp rocky paths, to overgrown paths on the cliff, in the middle of Nowhere. This was off-road experience at its finest, and Daniel once again demonstrated his driving skills through sweat. We definitely had a very dear guardian angel at our side. Thanks Ralfi, you still take care of your „Himbeertonis“.

The beach was beautiful, but how should this adventurous story end differently than that nothing had opened on the gorgeous beach, but we were hungry, thirsty and exhausted from the day. So it was to go back a bit and look for another place with restoration.

Chorefto

So we ended up unexpectedly and unplanned in Chorefto. The village has a really very nice campsite, which apparently also has glamping tents in high season. Unfortunately, not in low season and so we decided to rather stay near the ports construction site – once again – directly on the sea.

Of course, in the place one thing was more important than anything else: Food. There were plenty of restaurants and bars. Unfortunately, also at least as many, if not more, street dogs. Accordingly, we chose our restaurant based on the criterion of where the street dogs have the hardest time getting to. This way we landed at Petros o Sogabros. The ambience was fantastic, the service good, the seafood as well, but the street dogs still kept us a bit on our toes. All in all, however, a successful evening.

Damouchari

Just as beautiful as its name, is the place itself. Damouchari must have been born out of a dream. Picturesque alleys lead over terraces down to the harbor basin framed by large stones. On the other side of the village there is a wide white pebble beach. By the way, it was a filming location of the movie musical “Mamma Mia”.

We reached Damouchari early in the morning and enjoyed a delicious breakfast on the terrace of the family led Victoria Café. Here we met a lady from Brighton who has been returning to this place again and again for 12 years. We received numerous tips, including the recommendation to visit Fakistra Beach, which is known for its extraordinary beauty.

One breakfast turned into 2 nights in the room where Romy Schneider stayed when she visited Damouchari. Yes, this was not a joke at this point. We decided to stop at Guesthouse Ghermaniko to enjoy this dreamlike place even longer. Unsuspectingly, to our surprise, we ended up in Romy Schneider’s room, which was also beautifully, very purist but stylishly furnished. The guesthouse also belongs to the owner family of the Victoria Café and is absolutely recommended.

Many experiences and adventures followed, and in just a few days and in what is actually a very small place. Michelle received a private yoga lesson in the olive grove with Katerina, the owner of the inn. We met a new Landi friend in the owner of the Damouchari Hotel and chose our dinner ourselves in the kitchen of the Damouchari Hotel from pots on the stove. And we had dinner together with a trusting fox.

Fakistra

During our stay in Damouchari we visited Fakistra and Milopotamos beaches during the day. The way to Fakistra beach was stony and heavy. Heavy was especially Truffle on Daniel’s arm. Being a brave bullipapa, he carried our back-sick Truffle all the way down and later back up again. No idea where Daniel could take the strength from, only love can make such things possible.

However, the effort had been worth it in every case. Here again we found a paradise on earth, with impressive rocks, beautiful clear blue water, green trees and in addition a waterfall. If you like beaches, you will love this bay! You can’t see it on Trüffel in the photo, but he also enjoyed the beach day.

The beach caves of Milopotamos

The next day, the next beach followed. Not quite as paradisiacal, but also really beautiful. Not least because of its caves and rock breakthroughs.

At Milopotamos Beach we explored the caves, which are accessible only from the sea. The water and the entering light from the cave entrance bathes the caves in a blueish light. The water can sometimes make awkward noises, which can be pretty scary at times.

Our way led us further to Melania Beach, where unfortunately everything was still closed due to the season. Just like other beaches on our route. Nevertheless, we got a frappé from the extremely friendly hostess at a taverna that was actually closed and considered a plan B.

The harbor of Katigiorgis

This evening we found our pitch in the harbour of Katigiorgis. In the evening we visited Taverna Areti and were treated with mixed seafood and fish specialties. When we asked the waiter, if we could have a tsipouro „to go“ we received a cup full of ice cubes, two bottles of the clear spirit on the house and took off to our car, right across the bay. Back at the car, we backuped photos and videos, developed a few shots and watched the sun go down with our tsipouro in hand. During the night, there was a light cool breeze, cooling our tent. We slept very well.

Trikeri – the southernmost point of the Pelion Peninsula

The southernmost town of the Pelion Peninsula: Kiriaki near Trikeri. We arrived before noon, went to this beautiful town and explored the alleys, the shipyard and the backyards. Around 12pm we sat down at Manola’s taverna right by the harbor. What a beautiful, quiet day. The appetizers had just arrived when a stray cat caught Pelle’s attention. This little bad bastard broke loose along with his leash and chased the cat. We ran after him yelling “Pelle, Pelle!” but eventually he was out of sight. Thank God the cat escaped and Pelle returned to us in one of the streets. I almost had a heart attack! When we got back to our table, the whole town had gathered there. Everyone heard the crazy German tourists calling all over the village for their dog. But everyone was friendly and many asked if our dog was okay and if everything was fine, even when we were on our way back to the car later.

We ate the best fresh lobster at Manolas and then went back to the car. We set up our photovoltaic array, loaded our gear and went for a swim until thick clouds rolled in on the other side of the bay. We folded up the awning and headed back into town to Manola’s taverna – just in time before it started raining. An hour later, a thunderstorm started and it seemed impossible to return to the car without getting completely soaked. But the friendly Manolas jumped in and offered to drive us in his car across town back to our “Ralfi”. Until 3:00 am we slept on the driver’s seats, then the wind dropped and we put up our tent to be able to sleep properly for at least 4 hours. Thank you Manolas for this great day and your great seafood!

We slowly leave Pelion towards the west coast

One thing we can say now: The east coast is widely underestimated. Everyone praises and recommends the islands and the west, but what they tend to forget is how crowded it can get there. We prefer the (somewhat) more secret corners of this world and Pelion alone is worth a trip.

Continuing our journey the next day, we first stop in the small fishing village of Kóttes to have a real Greek coffee in the taverna Ψαροταβερνα Τσέτα. The old couple was very happy to see our two dogs and our visit. Although we could not communicate properly, it was a cordial meeting. At noon or in the evening there should also be delicious fish and seafood in the taverna, too bad that we do not have infinite time.

Our goals for the day were to take a shower and do laundry for the first time. So we needed a campsite that allowed both and was also on our way to the west coast. After extensive research, we decided on the Sikia campsite in the village of Kato Gatzea. Our way led us to the beautiful pebble beach Παραλία Ραζή, which was surrounded by shady trees. One look was enough and the decision was made, this is where we will make a quick stop, have a beer, unwind and maybe catch up on some sleep. This would also be a wonderful place to stand free, unfortunately we would have been out of fresh underpants. Just a stone’s throw away, we fortified ourselves with a tsipouro meze at Marabu Taverna and got to enjoy some of the best gavros on our trip. For all non-Greeks among us, these are deep-fried anchovies.

The campsite Sikia was surprisingly full. We were no longer used to that, where we were almost the only tourists far and wide everywhere else. Nevertheless, it was really nice and we could quickly understand why there has been so much going on. The clear majority of the pitches had direct sea views due to the terrace structure of the campsite and old olive trees were everywhere. On the day not only our laundry hung on the line, but also we relaxed for the first time in our hammock. In the evening we went to the tavern on the beach. The ambience was excellent, the eggplant salad, however, unfortunately not. The evening ended in a beach bar one campsite away with very good cocktails, which were prepared with dedication. Only the bar-cat Oliver did not have such a nice evening, as usual, due to our terror-pets.

Wild camping like in the adventure novel “A Winter at the Indian Creek” – only in warm

Our next goal for the day was to get as far west as possible. That is, to make a good distance. For refreshment we set ourselves a stopover at the restaurant Anabrysoúla. This restaurant is an absolute recommendation from our side. And if you like to eat trout, you can also enjoy a little adventure. If you want to eat a trout, you have to fish it out of the restaurant’s own trout pond. We preferred to stay with our Tsipouro Meze and watch the spectacle at the next table. Not far from the restaurant is a charming spot for all photographers among you. The stone bridge with its waterfalls of Palaiokarya. The very brave can also cross the lower waterfall on foot over a kind of masonry, but here water shoes are recommended.

We crossed the spectacular Mesochora Dam, but due to permitting difficulties it has never been put into operation since 2001. A classic multi-million dollar construction sin, but with beautiful blue lakes.

After a small off-road adventure through the riverbed, our campsite should be a little wilder and more natural this evening. We set up our tent right next to the river Acheloos. Here it was just us, bees, fish and the last rays of sunlight falling over the nearby mountain ranges into the valley. In places like this, you get a faint sense of what the word freedom can actually mean.

Koronisia and its lagoon

In the west of Greece, however, not only the coast was waiting for us. Michelle had picked out three spots that she really wanted to visit besides the coast. One of these spots was Koronisia, a kind of island in the Ambracian Gulf, which is only connected to the mainland by two narrow roads. Waiting for us were turtles, lots of snakes, romantic blue fishing huts, abandoned wooden boats and, unfortunately, once again a lot of street cats and a few hostile street dogs. We would have liked to stay longer, but due to the circumstances it was then only enough for an unrelaxed but very tasty meal at Γαρ Οίδα. Nevertheless, the fried cuttlefish and the bean salad on the menu are highly recommended.

Red clay site in Kokkinopilos – a rare geological phenomenon

In the middle of the otherwise inconspicuous surroundings of Kokkinopilos, a natural wonder occurs. Out of nowhere, you land in desert-like fields of red clay. It feels like being on another planet, are we suddenly on Mars? The area is not huge, but if you like it unusual, this is the place for you. The perfect ambience for offroading and photo shootings. A bit further north, the next highlight awaits: an old Roman aqueduct. Unfortunately, both are no spots to stay overnight, because high fines of 300€ can follow.

The kayak lake Zirou

However, the perfect next site is not too long in coming. At Zirou Lake, Loukas has realized his dream of a life as a dropout. After studying business and an unhappy job in a company, he now does what he is good at and fills him with pure joy: He runs his own kayak rental business. We hit it off right away with Loukas and the rest of the team and were allowed to stay overnight on his premises. In return we kept an eye on his boats, fair deal I would say. Daniel got a paddle, life jacket and kayak that very evening so he could enjoy the sunrise over the lake during a quiet kayak tour in the early morning hours. Dear Loukas, we wish you continued good luck and above all success in realizing your dream of living “into the wild“.

I almost forgot to mention something extremely important and fabulous. As dusk began to fall, we noticed that we were surrounded by an extraordinary shimmering and blinking. We were virtually standing in the middle of a sea of fireflies. A breathtakingly beautiful sight.

Free standing near Igoumenitsa

The harbor town of Igoumenitsa is probably known to most people because of its ferry connections. We find our place away from the traffic and harbor bustle in a bay called “Corfu Beach”. From the satellite pictures on Google we had hoped to be able to drive maybe completely on the beach, but unfortunately this was not possible – at least not without AT tires and their resistance to sharp-edged and pointed stones. Thanks to the additional ground clearance provided by the air suspension, however, we managed to get one “floor” lower to the water.

We park our Landi so that we can look out of the tent in the direction of the island of Corfu. In the evening we cook behind the car and are awakened at night from time to time by the roar of the ship’s diesel of the ferries passing in the far distance.

Albania

Albania has always been on our bucket list of trips so far. So if we are already in the vicinity, why should we not drive straight past and use the way back for a first visit?

In Butrint we cross over with a kind of raft that is pulled through the water by a chain drive. A bit adventurous.

After the much too short raft crossing, we bought the most delicious strawberries in the world from a street vendor and refueled at a very helpful Albanian, who gave us valuable tips. We should change money in restaurants rather than get cash at ATM machines, because they would charge a very bad exchange rate. Also, we should rather not drive up the coastal road as planned, but explore the inland and the mountains of Albania, as the coast would not represent the true Albania, but would be very touristy. Although we followed his advice regarding the money exchange, but unfortunately not the advice with the coastal road. We had a coffee and a latte in a street coffee of Ksamil and enjoyed the urban hustle and bustle around us before we went to the Musselhouse.

What awaited us here we had not guessed, it was a dreamlike place. We ordered white wine, fresh oysters and several varieties of moules. Never before had we received such creatively arranged oysters and never before had we been able to watch crab fights and schools of fish while eating mussels. The experience was rounded off by outstandingly good service and a nice and honest conversation with our waiter, who told us about the living conditions in Albania.

Everything that then waited for us between the Musselhouse and the campsite Kamping Pa Emer was worse than the gas station attendant let us fear. Although there were as hoped beautiful bays and beaches, but built with not exactly appealing hotel facilities and paved with sun loungers. Too bad coast of Albania, you could be so beautiful.

When we felt like we had reached the edge of the earth’s disk and briefly felt like we were in the back streets of Mombasa, we finally reached the campsite we were aiming for. Again, everyone was incredibly friendly and the site was natural and beautiful. Our campsite had its own beach access and the sea was so shallow for meters that it felt like you could wade through the warm water all the way to the horizon. Our highlight was the sunset over the restaurant of the campsite, which is accessible only via a long wooden walkway.

When the waiter asked us in the evening whether it was our first time in Albania and whether we would like it, I had to think briefly whether I was really telling him the truth and then I did: “The people are all very open-minded and friendly. Half of the coast is beautiful, great nature, the other half consists of the building sins of large hotel resorts and tourist strongholds.” He smirked and said that the coast was not necessarily a good representative of Albania. The true Albania would be found inland and in the mountains. We had heard that before.

He may well be right. But as much as we would have liked to visit Teth, Shkodra and the Komman on our own Albanian vacation: If you dear Albanians don’t manage to avoid at least one serious to fatal accident per hour due to your driving style, we won’t be coming back anytime soon. This is not a vacation for us. We can still laugh about farmers who drive goats or turkeys across the highway with a stick, but if, as a matter of course, despite oncoming traffic is deliberately swerved to overtake, then you can live it out without us.

Despite the adventurous to dangerous traffic behavior, we leave Albania, cross Bosnia and find our last campsite at Cape Karmenjak, near Premantura in Croatia. This is the site where our Croatia road trip along the Adriatic coast started in 2018. On the campsite Arena Stupice this travel report is created.

Our travel report “GREECE TRAVEL DOCUMENTARY | Offroad secrets along the coast: Pieria, Pelion, Damouchari, Fakistra, Trikeri” on Youtube

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Der Beitrag Offroading the coasts of Greece erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

So now, of all things, we’re going on a cruise ship and, to make matters worse, to a region where mistakes in public life can quickly end up in jail. We visit the Orient – friends and colleagues have persuaded me.

My first flight in the A380

Shortly before Christmas I get into an Airbus A380-800 of the airline Emirates in Düsseldorf at 20:45 with a cold and sore throat. I misunderstand the flight attendant’s seat instructions, at some point I find myself on the lower deck and am then accompanied back up to my seat. At least now I can say that I was once in the bar of an Airbus A380. for 10 seconds. Now I can die happy.

The flight to Dubai takes almost 6 hours with tailwind, over Bucharest the turbulences almost shake the board menu off my folding table. Apart from that the service and the food are excellent.

The in-flight media system “I.C.E” (Information, Communication, Entertainment) is very interesting for me as a technology and aviation freak. Real-time avionics data, camera images from cockpit, fuselage and tailplane perspective make the flight a real experience. Thanks to my cold, I’m awake all night and can’t get a wink of sleep, but I’m extremely tired. I follow our flight on the satellite map. We pass Syria in the east, then fly just past Mossul and Baghdad and finally land in Dubai at 5:50 am local time with 3 hours time difference. This planet is so small. For the flight in the A380 the journey was already worthwhile.

Dubai on arrival day – By jeep into the desert

Arriving in Dubai I have my first ‘aha’-experience. Noise is not welcome at the airport. So better don’t shout and don’t spread hecticness. Despite the crowds, it is extremely quiet at the airport and it is very organized. When a Chinese toddler starts to cry in the queue of the passport control because he doesn’t want to go in the direction his mother pulls him on the leash (Yes, right read, they had the child on a leash.), a friendly policeman waves the family out of the queue and controls the family preferentially. Great thing. Everybody won. In Germany the child would probably have terrorized the whole hall for 30 minutes with screaming.

Half an hour later it is light outside, we are taken in the bus to the AIDA Stella in the harbour “Port Rashid”. The cabin is ready for occupancy at 8:00 am. Short breakfast, then first a round of sleep. I do not want to exaggerate, but the cold is about to kill me.

The alarm clock rings at 2:00 pm. The 6 hours of sleep were worth it. Off we go from the ship to the cruise terminal, in front of which the four-wheel drive vehicles for the desert tour are already waiting.

Our driver takes us out of the city, past the old town, camel markets and horse racing tracks, until we finally leave the city behind us in an easterly direction. At some point we stop behind the entrance of a nature reserve. We get out of the car, I touch desert sand for the first time while our driver lets air out of the tires of our jeep, so that we can move better in the sand. On the now following drive, a little deeper into the desert, but still on a well-trodden path we see Oryx gazelles, desert foxes and other representatives of the fauna along the way.

Note the angle as we drive down the stage – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Our driver turns right into the dunes. The speed of the engine increases and we drive through the part of the huge reserve that is open for jeep safari. At the beginning everybody is still happy about the up and down and the roller coaster feeling in the sand. 30 minutes later it has become quiet, two of us try desperately not to throw up. Totally my thing!

Sunset in the desert – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After several short photo stops the trip ends in a kind of Bedouin camp. Here you can get food and drink, water pipe and dried dates.

Of course this is not a traditional desert village, but a tourist camp especially built for these jeep safaris. Nevertheless everything is arranged with love and a real oriental feeling comes up. I realize that my cold is suddenly blown away.

On the way back we are stuck in a traffic jam in Dubai. We look at the skyline, which some people might know from the AppleTV screensaver.

Back on the ship there is supposed to be a beer at 22:00 o’clock. Take it easy. Also because of the latent cold. Three “Swimming Pool” and two Corona later I am on the cabin at 01:00 o’clock.

The first day at sea

When we cast off the next day in Dubai I sit on the sun deck and edit the photos of the desert safari. The “Queen Elizabeth 2” and the “Costa Mediterranea” bid us farewell with the ship’s horn. The first day at sea lies ahead of us. Will I get bored? Now we will see.

I spend the day listening to a lecture about Oman, we go out for dinner twice, play billiards and air hockey several times.

Just past the Strait of Hormus, the weather turns. The sea becomes rougher, the wind freshens up considerably, a thunderstorm illuminates the sky and the lake and it flashes through the large windows of the Teatrium. The piano player plays “Let it be”, I drink a gin and tonic. An atmospheric, albeit surreal atmosphere.

I was not bored. But I have to admit that I find people sitting in the restaurant with flip-flops or cappies rather strange. The second day is coming to an end, I look once more from lower deck 5 at the sea illuminated by the weather and then go to sleep.

Mascat in Oman

On the third day my alarm clock rings at 05:45 in the morning. I get ready, leave the cabin and watch the sunrise over Oman from deck 5. It’s raining and the waves sometimes hit the railing slightly. An impressive scene.

Directly after docking in Muscat, I leave the ship for the booked excursion “Mystic Muscat”. At the port, every passenger receives a pass from the Royal Police of the Sultanate of Oman, which identifies him as a port tourist. At the exit, the port terminal is guarded by several policemen with rapid fire rifles. The sight was, shall we say, rather unusual for our eyes.

Our guide today is a native Indian. Like him, a lot of people from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh work in the United Arab Emirates and Oman. Sometimes only for 6 to 8 months during the tourist season. More than half of the inhabitants are immigrants. Our guide is cold, after all it is still raining. Today is one of two rainy days a year in Oman, he says. So we seem to have caught a great timing.

Port promenade of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The first destination we reach is the great mosque. According to our guide we have about 45 minutes time for this. We get out of the car and have to wait at the entrance for some time, because two guests did not notice that there are dress regulations in the mosques. But the mosque provides rental clothes for such cases. Unfortunately, the lady in question is now reluctant to put on worn clothes. Now we have only 40 minutes left. The couple is very uneducated. At some point they have finally put on their rented clothes and we can proceed to the inner courtyard of the mosque. I hope we’ll forget about those jerks when we leave and just leave them in Oman.

Dome in the Great Mosque of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The mosque is impressively large and the terrain extremely clean. We first see the relatively simple women’s prayer room and then the large prayer room in the main building. A huge carpet, fine mosaics and huge chandeliers decorate the room. Somewhere in the crowd I catch the statement of a guide that the chandelier in the middle of the mosque should weigh almost 8 tons. I cannot believe that.

Great Mosque of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After visiting the prayer rooms we go back to the gardens of the mosque. Here an elderly gentleman and two ladies in long black robes, who are probably related to the community of the mosque, await us. They welcome us to Oman, are pleased that the country has developed in such a way over the last decades that we as tourists now come to them and serve us the traditional Kawa and dried dates. Your words seem sincere and your joy not played. I have the feeling that they want to give us a different impression of Islam than the one we might carry in our heads from the media and current affairs. You have achieved that.

Next destination: the Mascat Souk. It is one of the oldest markets in the Arab world. All kinds of goods are sold here, but mainly to tourists: fabrics, perfumes, art and souvenirs. The traders address the tourists directly, so one should be able to say no, otherwise one will be involved in a longer sales conversation. The prices are reasonable, but there is still room for negotiation, which sometimes one does not want to exhaust morally. Most of the booths are again serviced by Indians and Bangladeshis, and they are also very business friendly. If you make eye contact for a second or stand in front of a shop with interest, you are guaranteed to be approached and won’t be left alone again. I use the market to buy some small souvenirs for the family. But I buy these souvenirs at the only stand where we were not actively approached, with two Arabic looking older men. Both were simply friendly and reserved. Due to the previous rain it is extremely wet on the ground in the market. Thus, the whole complex was well rinsed and the flowing water does not necessarily make a very hygienic impression. The local people wait with sandals through the black, dirty water.

When we wait for the bus, it starts raining again. Like out of buckets. A restaurant owner sees that we are standing in the rain, runs to us and waves us hastily into his restaurant. I have to watch my camera, he says. We follow him and I am afraid that now we have to buy something from him. He even offers us a table where we are supposed to wait for the end of the rain. He is also happy that tourists come to his town and is extremely friendly to us. After some time I believe that he waved us in out of pure kindness and without ulterior motives.

Later we continue to the Sultan Museum and the Sultan Palace. Here we learn that hospitality is a tradition in Oman. As former desert nomads, it is a good custom to receive traveling guests. Therefore we are offered coffee and water. The museum shows a lot of information about the ruling sultan family and the habits of the population. The Sultan of Oman has put the country on a good path in recent years. Schools have been built, jobs created, the infrastructure has been improved and tourists have come to the country. The people of Oman therefore almost idolize him. Several posters and paintings on buildings show his portrait and the people here are proud of their secular ruler.

The Sultan’s Palace in Muscat was built in the 70s by an Indian construction company for the Sultan – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The trip was certainly informative and interesting even if the weather was so bad. To be honest, I lacked a little flexibility. I would have liked to take more time for the mosque and Muscat itself and also would have preferred to determine the excursion time myself, after all the big mosque has to look breathtaking at nightfall, similar to the sultan’s palace. A trip on our own by taxi would probably have made this possible for us and saved us the contact to the stupid excursionists. Furthermore, one would probably have had more legroom than in the bus. Therefore, I recommend to take a taxi on your own and to visit the following places in Oman:

• Sultan-Qabus-Moschee https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Große_Sultan-Qabus-Moschee
• Sultanspalast
• Omanisches Kulturmuseum “Bait al zubair”

Back on board we finished the day in the “Anytime Bar” at the stern. I write this paragraph the following day at 15:00 and still have a headache.

Abu Dhabi – the fantastic sea of lights

Around 17:00 o’clock we reach the port of Abu Dhabi. On this fourth day, the AIDA shuttle bus takes us to the World Trade Center of Abu Dhabi, a central point in the city. From here we want to explore the city by taxi. Directly in front of the bus an alleged “taxi driver” intercepts us. He wants to drive us around the city for 50€ and wait for us for half an hour at each attraction. The half hour is too little for us and we refuse the offer. Unfortunately this dubious person is not satisfied with this and continues to bother us even when we want to get into a normal taxi.

With a regular taxi we now drive about 20km to the big Sheikh Zayid mosque in the east of the city. The ride costs us with a generous tip just under 15€.

Courtyard of the Sheikh Zayid Mosque after dark – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Both the outside of the mosque and the prayer rooms are simply breathtaking. Water games in the outside area, gold leaf on the countless columns, finest reliefs and carved writings take our breath away. I have seen many special buildings, be it castles in Scotland, chateaux on the Loire or wooden churches in Norway, but this is in a different league. I can only recommend everyone to visit this mosque in the dark. The lights blue illuminated domes and the illuminated prayer courtyard unfold their full charm in the evening. Be sure to bring a tripod for photos.

Entrance to the Sheikh Zayid Mosque – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

From the mosque we take a taxi to the Marina Mall, again a ride of 20km, again 15€ including tip. First we have a short look into this hyper shopping stamp. Here it should be said that one should not necessarily drink from the public drinking fountains. Unless you are up for long lasting diarrhoea.

Blue water even after dark – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Right next to the mall we find great viewpoints on the shore with views of the State Palace, the Hotel of the Emirates and the skyline of Abu Dhabi on Corniche Road / First Road.

The skyline of Abu Dhabi with the Corniche Road – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Again, a tripod is recommended for taking pictures. The water is, due to the sand, deep blue even in the dark.

Right the Emirates Palace Hotel – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

For another 15€ we go back to the ship. At the latest now it becomes clear that the dubious “taxi driver” from the World-Trade-Center would have exploited us properly.

The next day we go to the Eastern Mangroves for a kayak tour through the mangrove swamps. We start our kayak tour at the “Eastern Mangroves & Spa Hotel”. First we pass a pipeline deeper into the nature reserve. In the surroundings of the pipeline, which runs along the edge of the reserve, there is a strong smell of petrol. Something is rotten here. Nevertheless, the water is crystal clear, the bird life sits in the mangrove woods, later we have a possibility to swim on the beach in the reserve. But the pipeline clouded the overall picture.

Short swimming break during the kayak tour through the mangroves – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Here, once again an advantage of the cruise becomes clear: in advance, we did not have to worry about booking or transfer for even one minute. We booked this excursion, were taken directly from the ship to the starting point, everything was organized and we could fully concentrate on the moment. Different to the rather stressful bus tours with several stops we had plenty of time for this one activity.

Those who do a kayak tour here need some change of clothes and should also have a waterproof mobile phone cover in order to be able to take pictures. Although many of today’s smartphones are already waterproof, this does not prevent them from going under. Alternatively you can of course take a GoPro with you.

Back on the ship I sit down in the sauna despite 26° outside temperature in the wellness area. That might be a bit disturbed, some might think, but I have never sauned in such an unreal setting before. With a view to the skyline of Abu Dhabi in the background of the harbour terminal, it is an excellent place to sweat. Abu Dhabi was my personal highlight of the whole cruise.

• Scheich Zayid Moschee
• Abu Dhabi Marina Mall

Manama, the capital of Bahrain

This will be a short section. With the shuttle bus we went from AIDA Stella to the capital Manama. Here we first explored the souk, an Arabic market. However, this is not a market of flying merchants, but rather a kind of district with many shops.

Oriental lamps in the souk of Bahrain – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Fake watches, fabrics, partly fake smartphones but also some nice souvenirs can be bought here. I would not trust in principle that the goods are in any way original parts. A visit is worthwhile and somehow belongs to it. But there are nicer souks and if, then I would recommend the souk at nightfall. The many lights of the shops then create a nicer atmosphere. During the day the district rather awakes a kind of developing country charm, if one can speak of it at all.

Roads near the souk Bab el Bahrain in Manama – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

We also took a look at the World Trade Center of Manama from the outside. It is the iconic building that consists of two towers connected in the middle, with wind turbines generating electricity between them.

World Trade Center in Bahrain with its two towers with wind turbines – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After visiting both places, Bahrain was the most disappointing place of the cruise for me. Back on the ship we looked at photos of other fellow vacationers from Manama and were amazed at the beautiful places our table neighbors had found in the capital of Bahrain. The beach promenade should definitely be worth a visit. I think we simply looked at the wrong or too few places in Bahrain:

• World Trade Center Bahrain Manama
• Bab el Bahrain Souk in Manama

Return journey to Dubai and city exploration

The outlines of Dubai appear in the haze above the horizon as we approach the port “Port Rashid” with the AIDA Stella, where our cruise also began. In front of us lies the most exhausting day of our journey.

Dubai appears in the haze – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

In the harbour we take a taxi to the next metro station and from there to the Dubai Mall. Our taxi driver gives us the advice to take the taxi directly. That is cheaper. He is also right. We tell him that we want to experience the “Metro-Experience”. He laughs and drops us off at the “Al Jafiliya” Metro Station. The people here are all courteous and amazingly open.

We get into the metro and are haunted by bad looks. Awkward, because we got on in the women’s compartment. A friendly local man signals that we should follow him, laughs at us and leads us into the mixed compartment of the train. It is not that women are not allowed to ride with the men, but that they are allowed a part of the train by not being harassed. Of course, this does not make our faux pas any better, quite the contrary. Typical tourists. If the young man hadn’t helped us, we would probably have had to pay a fine of 100 Dirham per person.

Arrived at the station “Dubai Mall / Burj Khalifa” we press our noses to the windows of the station to be able to see the Burj Khalifa, the highest building in the world. Again an older man, who is completely strange to us, speaks to us. He tells us in English that we should follow the passenger conveyor belt for a few more meters, then we would be able to see the tower on our right. He says goodbye with a smile. The people here are incredibly helpful and courteous. We notice this again some time later when our Metro ticket falls out of our pockets. A complete stranger follows us, talks to us, hands over the lost ticket and wishes us a nice day. Unbelievable.

We look at the Dubai Mall. This is totally sick. Fish swim in shop windows, a huge shark aquarium juts out in the middle of this superlative shopping centre. This heavily air-conditioned temple of consumption puts everyone else in the shade. Due to its size it is neither cosy nor inviting, rather anonymous and overwhelming. Nevertheless, you have to see it once.

The shark aquarium in the Dubai Mall – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

With the Metro we go from here to the “Dubai Marina”. On Thursdays you can see here the exotic cars of the rich inhabitants of Dubai, because it is the last day before the weekend. Many have now time to splash around a little with the car. But also away from the cars “Dubai Marina” has a lot to offer. Blue water, the marina, bluish window fronts of the surrounding high-rise buildings.

Dubai Marina – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM

We continue on foot to the monorail for the crossing on Palm Island. Meanwhile it is 13:00 o’clock and I cannot feel my feet anymore.

Here we see the famous hotel “Atlantis The Palm” with the water park of the same name.

Already in the morning we had reserved in the cruise terminal for the visit of the Burj Khalifa ticket for 6:00 pm. This was more expensive than booking the tickets directly on the official website of the tourist attraction, but we didn’t want to enter our credit card data in the free and unencrypted WLAN of Port Rashid. Those who plan far enough in advance should book the tickets comfortably from home already before the beginning of the holiday. This saves money and makes sure that one is really allowed to visit the tower on the desired date.

From “Palm Island” we take the monorail back to the mainland, then take the metro back to the station “Dubai Mall / Burj Khalifa”. Unfortunately we did not know how to get from here to the tower. The friendly security people explain the way to us and we realize that we have to walk back to the Dubai Mall to get from there underground to the tower. Now time is pressing. Finally we make it in the last second to cash in our 18:00 o’clock ticket.

After passing the security checks the elevator takes us to the 124th floor in only 55 seconds. Here the visitor platform “AT THE TOP” awaits us at a height of about 500 meters. If you get a little bit down on your knees, you can feel the building moving inside you. From the outer platform you have a breathtaking view over the whole of Dubai.

View from Burj Khalifa from 500 meters height – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Those who want to spend a little more money can go up to the second visitor platform on the 148th floor (555m high). Here, there is less crowd, the floor is a little more stylishly furnished and small meals and appetizers are served. Unfortunately we did not find out about this until we were back on the ship.

The Dubai Fountains near the Dubai Mall shine in the light of the surrounding high-rise buildings – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

From the Dubai Fountains we take a taxi back to Port Rashid. I ask our Pakistani driver how life is in Dubai and how the Arabs deal with the immigrants, if there are any tensions. The living together is good. It is quite OK, he puts it into perspective a little later. Showing his own wealth does not fit in with his own culture. Even if you have money in Pakistan, you wouldn’t want to rub everyone’s nose in it. These differences naturally create points of friction. But on the whole he is satisfied.

Our Pakistani taxi driver thinks German tourists are great. They are always nice and friendly, he says. He also knows Hitler and Angela.

On the ship there is a “Lynchburg Lemonade” in the Anytime Bar. One last time I enjoy my cocktail with a view of Dubai’s skyline and go to bed afterwards.

It will not have been my last cruise. You see more than just staying in a single hotel, a single city. Nevertheless, one always has one’s own room at hand and does not have to move from hotel to hotel. The booked excursions save a lot of organisational efforts in the run-up and also during the trip. Partly, without the excursion program of the AIDA Stella, one would not have heard about all the attractions. But I would advise against extensive bus excursions. Too little time at interesting places, constant looking up at the clock and too many daft fellow travellers. Then I would rather go on an exploratory trip by taxi.

After only 3 hours sleep the alarm clock rings and the bus takes us to Dubai International Airport. On the wings of an Airbus A380 from Emirates we travel home for Christmas.

• Burj Khalifa (mit Ticketreservierung)
• The Palm Jumeirah und Atlantis Hotel
• Dubai Marina
• Dubai Mall

The accompanying video

I have created a travel video with very little effort. So no gimbals, no stabilization and almost no editing effort. Just to remind you.

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

What photographic equipment did I have with me?

In the following you will find affiliate links to my used equipment:

• DSLR-Kamera Nikon D500
• Objektiv Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Objektiv Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Reisestativ Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g inkl. Kopf)
• iPhone 8 Plus
• Mpow wasserdichte Hülle für iPhone
• Travelite Vector Beautycase für Kameratransport im Handgepäck

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Through the Orient on the AIDA Stella – my first cruise erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.