Stopover near Bokod in Hungary

It is 04:00 at night when we set up our roof tent in Bokod. Before that we have crossed half of Germany, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. After four hours of sleep, the first rays of sunlight wake us up around 08:00, heating up the roof tent. We get ready and set out on the only a few meters wide way to the “floating” village of the Bokodi lake.

Here, a couple has been working for 10 years to make the former fishing village, whose houses are built on stilts in the lake, more attractive and visible to tourists. They invite us to their house, or more precisely, their roof terrace and make us a fresh coffee. That was a good stop!

The hot springs of Loutra Pozar

Around 11 o’clock in Hungary it was all hands on board, Ralfi wants to go to Greece. With our next destination in mind, we continued our journey towards Loutra Pozar. Still in the same evening we wanted to cross the Greek border, in order to start the next morning with a bath in the hot springs. At about 1:00 a.m., after what felt like an endless and tiring drive, we actually reached our destination. Although the last 1 1/2 hours of driving through mountain roads made our adrenaline shoot up once again, we were glad when we finally found a nice spot and pitched our tent. Listening to the soothing sound of water, we and our dogs all quickly fell asleep.

The next morning we quickly exchanged our sleeping clothes for bathing outfits to dive into the hot springs. A bath in the middle of nature, surrounded by forest, stone and birdsong, can there be a more beautiful start to the day? We treated ourselves to another frappé and fed cute little street dogs before continuing our journey.

Salt pans of Pydna near Katerini

Upon our arrival in Katerini, our first stop was Tsipouro Meze. In this form of lunch, you order the Greek pomace brandy Tsipouro and receive various delicacies of Greek cuisine.

For digestion and a little nap, we then drove to the salt pans of Pydna. Parts of the salt pans are freely accessible and bathing in the brine is allowed at a designated spot. The high salt content means that one is carried more in the water than in normal bathing water. In addition, the salt bath is good against skin impurities, mosquito bites and supposedly good against joint ailments.

For the first time we could drive with our “Ralfi” directly to the beach. We unfolded the awning (Quick Pitch Awning) and rested a little in the fresh sea breeze. Truffle and Pelle sniffed the Aegean sea air for the first time.

Such a beach day and sea air can make quite hungry, so we decided to go to the tavern “The Koutouki Nikolas” (Το Κουτούκι του Νικόλα) for dinner. It is one of Daniel’s favorite restaurants, so the anticipation was huge. After 5 years of abstinence, it was back to Snow White salad and deep fried pork. We discovered that the peperonis were actually VERY spicy and enjoyed our first Greek wine. Without Autan, however, the evening would have been only half as nice.

On the way there for dinner, we had already noticed a beautiful place on the beach and campers who were already there. The app park4night helped us once again to find a beautiful place to camp “wild”. It followed our first night on the beach, with the sound of the sea and a magnificent view of Mount Olympus and its shining nearby cities.

Over our coffee the next morning we met Stelios. A nice older Greek man who just came from his night shift and wanted to enjoy the sunrise. We got to talking and exchanged ideas about the working conditions in Greece and Germany, among other things.

Offroad to Mount Olympus

After both the excavation sites at Dion and the mountain village of Pantaleimonas were overrun by groups of students and spoiled our mood properly, we decided on the spot rather to go to Mount Olympus. Here we should have our peace and at the same time we can test what our Ralfi can do. Before we went to the top, we visited the crystal clear waterfall Orlias. Surrounded by frogs and tadpoles we dipped our 12 feet into the cold mountain water.

After cooling down, it was time for Ralfi and Daniel to get to work. While Michelle cleared the path of sharp stones and hanging branches, Daniel drove our Ralfi safely on unpaved gravel roads towards “Koromilia Refuge Olympus”. At the top we met a bachelor party and thus got to know a troop of funny young men from Israel. We offered them all a chilled beer and exchanged some stories. It was a great encounter!

If this is not paradise, where is it?

Gallaria

When Daniel was last in Greece in 2017, a bar was just built in the old train tunnel on the beach of Pantaleimonas. Years before even the Orient Express passed through this tunnel, today exactly in the same place you can find an industrial bar with charm and pretty good cocktails. We tried our way through the cocktail menu, were spoiled with strawberries and pears and found new friends here as well. But it wasn’t just us, our dogs got found new buddies as well. Dear John Ziakas, thank you for the warm evening and the tequila. We like to follow your guitar skills on Instagram and on our next trip to Greece we will definitely enjoy your hospitality again. Last but not least, we were allowed to pitch our tent in the parking lot, perfect!

The next morning should start a little relaxed before the onward journey. We took two loungers on the beach and enjoyed a frappé. Just let the soul dangle before the next longer distance waiting for us.

What was to follow after this harmonious morning was anything but relaxed. Michelle had considered a beautiful route from Pantaleimonas to Paralia Agii Saranta. It should go far from the Google Maps navigation, rather directly along the coast. Let’s put it this way, that we are still alive today and writing this report, seems like a miracle. Through a kilometer-long unsecured construction site in serpentine form, over sharp rocky paths, to overgrown paths on the cliff, in the middle of Nowhere. This was off-road experience at its finest, and Daniel once again demonstrated his driving skills through sweat. We definitely had a very dear guardian angel at our side. Thanks Ralfi, you still take care of your „Himbeertonis“.

The beach was beautiful, but how should this adventurous story end differently than that nothing had opened on the gorgeous beach, but we were hungry, thirsty and exhausted from the day. So it was to go back a bit and look for another place with restoration.

Chorefto

So we ended up unexpectedly and unplanned in Chorefto. The village has a really very nice campsite, which apparently also has glamping tents in high season. Unfortunately, not in low season and so we decided to rather stay near the ports construction site – once again – directly on the sea.

Of course, in the place one thing was more important than anything else: Food. There were plenty of restaurants and bars. Unfortunately, also at least as many, if not more, street dogs. Accordingly, we chose our restaurant based on the criterion of where the street dogs have the hardest time getting to. This way we landed at Petros o Sogabros. The ambience was fantastic, the service good, the seafood as well, but the street dogs still kept us a bit on our toes. All in all, however, a successful evening.

Damouchari

Just as beautiful as its name, is the place itself. Damouchari must have been born out of a dream. Picturesque alleys lead over terraces down to the harbor basin framed by large stones. On the other side of the village there is a wide white pebble beach. By the way, it was a filming location of the movie musical “Mamma Mia”.

We reached Damouchari early in the morning and enjoyed a delicious breakfast on the terrace of the family led Victoria Café. Here we met a lady from Brighton who has been returning to this place again and again for 12 years. We received numerous tips, including the recommendation to visit Fakistra Beach, which is known for its extraordinary beauty.

One breakfast turned into 2 nights in the room where Romy Schneider stayed when she visited Damouchari. Yes, this was not a joke at this point. We decided to stop at Guesthouse Ghermaniko to enjoy this dreamlike place even longer. Unsuspectingly, to our surprise, we ended up in Romy Schneider’s room, which was also beautifully, very purist but stylishly furnished. The guesthouse also belongs to the owner family of the Victoria Café and is absolutely recommended.

Many experiences and adventures followed, and in just a few days and in what is actually a very small place. Michelle received a private yoga lesson in the olive grove with Katerina, the owner of the inn. We met a new Landi friend in the owner of the Damouchari Hotel and chose our dinner ourselves in the kitchen of the Damouchari Hotel from pots on the stove. And we had dinner together with a trusting fox.

Fakistra

During our stay in Damouchari we visited Fakistra and Milopotamos beaches during the day. The way to Fakistra beach was stony and heavy. Heavy was especially Truffle on Daniel’s arm. Being a brave bullipapa, he carried our back-sick Truffle all the way down and later back up again. No idea where Daniel could take the strength from, only love can make such things possible.

However, the effort had been worth it in every case. Here again we found a paradise on earth, with impressive rocks, beautiful clear blue water, green trees and in addition a waterfall. If you like beaches, you will love this bay! You can’t see it on Trüffel in the photo, but he also enjoyed the beach day.

The beach caves of Milopotamos

The next day, the next beach followed. Not quite as paradisiacal, but also really beautiful. Not least because of its caves and rock breakthroughs.

At Milopotamos Beach we explored the caves, which are accessible only from the sea. The water and the entering light from the cave entrance bathes the caves in a blueish light. The water can sometimes make awkward noises, which can be pretty scary at times.

Our way led us further to Melania Beach, where unfortunately everything was still closed due to the season. Just like other beaches on our route. Nevertheless, we got a frappé from the extremely friendly hostess at a taverna that was actually closed and considered a plan B.

The harbor of Katigiorgis

This evening we found our pitch in the harbour of Katigiorgis. In the evening we visited Taverna Areti and were treated with mixed seafood and fish specialties. When we asked the waiter, if we could have a tsipouro „to go“ we received a cup full of ice cubes, two bottles of the clear spirit on the house and took off to our car, right across the bay. Back at the car, we backuped photos and videos, developed a few shots and watched the sun go down with our tsipouro in hand. During the night, there was a light cool breeze, cooling our tent. We slept very well.

Trikeri – the southernmost point of the Pelion Peninsula

The southernmost town of the Pelion Peninsula: Kiriaki near Trikeri. We arrived before noon, went to this beautiful town and explored the alleys, the shipyard and the backyards. Around 12pm we sat down at Manola’s taverna right by the harbor. What a beautiful, quiet day. The appetizers had just arrived when a stray cat caught Pelle’s attention. This little bad bastard broke loose along with his leash and chased the cat. We ran after him yelling “Pelle, Pelle!” but eventually he was out of sight. Thank God the cat escaped and Pelle returned to us in one of the streets. I almost had a heart attack! When we got back to our table, the whole town had gathered there. Everyone heard the crazy German tourists calling all over the village for their dog. But everyone was friendly and many asked if our dog was okay and if everything was fine, even when we were on our way back to the car later.

We ate the best fresh lobster at Manolas and then went back to the car. We set up our photovoltaic array, loaded our gear and went for a swim until thick clouds rolled in on the other side of the bay. We folded up the awning and headed back into town to Manola’s taverna – just in time before it started raining. An hour later, a thunderstorm started and it seemed impossible to return to the car without getting completely soaked. But the friendly Manolas jumped in and offered to drive us in his car across town back to our “Ralfi”. Until 3:00 am we slept on the driver’s seats, then the wind dropped and we put up our tent to be able to sleep properly for at least 4 hours. Thank you Manolas for this great day and your great seafood!

We slowly leave Pelion towards the west coast

One thing we can say now: The east coast is widely underestimated. Everyone praises and recommends the islands and the west, but what they tend to forget is how crowded it can get there. We prefer the (somewhat) more secret corners of this world and Pelion alone is worth a trip.

Continuing our journey the next day, we first stop in the small fishing village of Kóttes to have a real Greek coffee in the taverna Ψαροταβερνα Τσέτα. The old couple was very happy to see our two dogs and our visit. Although we could not communicate properly, it was a cordial meeting. At noon or in the evening there should also be delicious fish and seafood in the taverna, too bad that we do not have infinite time.

Our goals for the day were to take a shower and do laundry for the first time. So we needed a campsite that allowed both and was also on our way to the west coast. After extensive research, we decided on the Sikia campsite in the village of Kato Gatzea. Our way led us to the beautiful pebble beach Παραλία Ραζή, which was surrounded by shady trees. One look was enough and the decision was made, this is where we will make a quick stop, have a beer, unwind and maybe catch up on some sleep. This would also be a wonderful place to stand free, unfortunately we would have been out of fresh underpants. Just a stone’s throw away, we fortified ourselves with a tsipouro meze at Marabu Taverna and got to enjoy some of the best gavros on our trip. For all non-Greeks among us, these are deep-fried anchovies.

The campsite Sikia was surprisingly full. We were no longer used to that, where we were almost the only tourists far and wide everywhere else. Nevertheless, it was really nice and we could quickly understand why there has been so much going on. The clear majority of the pitches had direct sea views due to the terrace structure of the campsite and old olive trees were everywhere. On the day not only our laundry hung on the line, but also we relaxed for the first time in our hammock. In the evening we went to the tavern on the beach. The ambience was excellent, the eggplant salad, however, unfortunately not. The evening ended in a beach bar one campsite away with very good cocktails, which were prepared with dedication. Only the bar-cat Oliver did not have such a nice evening, as usual, due to our terror-pets.

Wild camping like in the adventure novel “A Winter at the Indian Creek” – only in warm

Our next goal for the day was to get as far west as possible. That is, to make a good distance. For refreshment we set ourselves a stopover at the restaurant Anabrysoúla. This restaurant is an absolute recommendation from our side. And if you like to eat trout, you can also enjoy a little adventure. If you want to eat a trout, you have to fish it out of the restaurant’s own trout pond. We preferred to stay with our Tsipouro Meze and watch the spectacle at the next table. Not far from the restaurant is a charming spot for all photographers among you. The stone bridge with its waterfalls of Palaiokarya. The very brave can also cross the lower waterfall on foot over a kind of masonry, but here water shoes are recommended.

We crossed the spectacular Mesochora Dam, but due to permitting difficulties it has never been put into operation since 2001. A classic multi-million dollar construction sin, but with beautiful blue lakes.

After a small off-road adventure through the riverbed, our campsite should be a little wilder and more natural this evening. We set up our tent right next to the river Acheloos. Here it was just us, bees, fish and the last rays of sunlight falling over the nearby mountain ranges into the valley. In places like this, you get a faint sense of what the word freedom can actually mean.

Koronisia and its lagoon

In the west of Greece, however, not only the coast was waiting for us. Michelle had picked out three spots that she really wanted to visit besides the coast. One of these spots was Koronisia, a kind of island in the Ambracian Gulf, which is only connected to the mainland by two narrow roads. Waiting for us were turtles, lots of snakes, romantic blue fishing huts, abandoned wooden boats and, unfortunately, once again a lot of street cats and a few hostile street dogs. We would have liked to stay longer, but due to the circumstances it was then only enough for an unrelaxed but very tasty meal at Γαρ Οίδα. Nevertheless, the fried cuttlefish and the bean salad on the menu are highly recommended.

Red clay site in Kokkinopilos – a rare geological phenomenon

In the middle of the otherwise inconspicuous surroundings of Kokkinopilos, a natural wonder occurs. Out of nowhere, you land in desert-like fields of red clay. It feels like being on another planet, are we suddenly on Mars? The area is not huge, but if you like it unusual, this is the place for you. The perfect ambience for offroading and photo shootings. A bit further north, the next highlight awaits: an old Roman aqueduct. Unfortunately, both are no spots to stay overnight, because high fines of 300€ can follow.

The kayak lake Zirou

However, the perfect next site is not too long in coming. At Zirou Lake, Loukas has realized his dream of a life as a dropout. After studying business and an unhappy job in a company, he now does what he is good at and fills him with pure joy: He runs his own kayak rental business. We hit it off right away with Loukas and the rest of the team and were allowed to stay overnight on his premises. In return we kept an eye on his boats, fair deal I would say. Daniel got a paddle, life jacket and kayak that very evening so he could enjoy the sunrise over the lake during a quiet kayak tour in the early morning hours. Dear Loukas, we wish you continued good luck and above all success in realizing your dream of living “into the wild“.

I almost forgot to mention something extremely important and fabulous. As dusk began to fall, we noticed that we were surrounded by an extraordinary shimmering and blinking. We were virtually standing in the middle of a sea of fireflies. A breathtakingly beautiful sight.

Free standing near Igoumenitsa

The harbor town of Igoumenitsa is probably known to most people because of its ferry connections. We find our place away from the traffic and harbor bustle in a bay called “Corfu Beach”. From the satellite pictures on Google we had hoped to be able to drive maybe completely on the beach, but unfortunately this was not possible – at least not without AT tires and their resistance to sharp-edged and pointed stones. Thanks to the additional ground clearance provided by the air suspension, however, we managed to get one “floor” lower to the water.

We park our Landi so that we can look out of the tent in the direction of the island of Corfu. In the evening we cook behind the car and are awakened at night from time to time by the roar of the ship’s diesel of the ferries passing in the far distance.

Albania

Albania has always been on our bucket list of trips so far. So if we are already in the vicinity, why should we not drive straight past and use the way back for a first visit?

In Butrint we cross over with a kind of raft that is pulled through the water by a chain drive. A bit adventurous.

After the much too short raft crossing, we bought the most delicious strawberries in the world from a street vendor and refueled at a very helpful Albanian, who gave us valuable tips. We should change money in restaurants rather than get cash at ATM machines, because they would charge a very bad exchange rate. Also, we should rather not drive up the coastal road as planned, but explore the inland and the mountains of Albania, as the coast would not represent the true Albania, but would be very touristy. Although we followed his advice regarding the money exchange, but unfortunately not the advice with the coastal road. We had a coffee and a latte in a street coffee of Ksamil and enjoyed the urban hustle and bustle around us before we went to the Musselhouse.

What awaited us here we had not guessed, it was a dreamlike place. We ordered white wine, fresh oysters and several varieties of moules. Never before had we received such creatively arranged oysters and never before had we been able to watch crab fights and schools of fish while eating mussels. The experience was rounded off by outstandingly good service and a nice and honest conversation with our waiter, who told us about the living conditions in Albania.

Everything that then waited for us between the Musselhouse and the campsite Kamping Pa Emer was worse than the gas station attendant let us fear. Although there were as hoped beautiful bays and beaches, but built with not exactly appealing hotel facilities and paved with sun loungers. Too bad coast of Albania, you could be so beautiful.

When we felt like we had reached the edge of the earth’s disk and briefly felt like we were in the back streets of Mombasa, we finally reached the campsite we were aiming for. Again, everyone was incredibly friendly and the site was natural and beautiful. Our campsite had its own beach access and the sea was so shallow for meters that it felt like you could wade through the warm water all the way to the horizon. Our highlight was the sunset over the restaurant of the campsite, which is accessible only via a long wooden walkway.

When the waiter asked us in the evening whether it was our first time in Albania and whether we would like it, I had to think briefly whether I was really telling him the truth and then I did: “The people are all very open-minded and friendly. Half of the coast is beautiful, great nature, the other half consists of the building sins of large hotel resorts and tourist strongholds.” He smirked and said that the coast was not necessarily a good representative of Albania. The true Albania would be found inland and in the mountains. We had heard that before.

He may well be right. But as much as we would have liked to visit Teth, Shkodra and the Komman on our own Albanian vacation: If you dear Albanians don’t manage to avoid at least one serious to fatal accident per hour due to your driving style, we won’t be coming back anytime soon. This is not a vacation for us. We can still laugh about farmers who drive goats or turkeys across the highway with a stick, but if, as a matter of course, despite oncoming traffic is deliberately swerved to overtake, then you can live it out without us.

Despite the adventurous to dangerous traffic behavior, we leave Albania, cross Bosnia and find our last campsite at Cape Karmenjak, near Premantura in Croatia. This is the site where our Croatia road trip along the Adriatic coast started in 2018. On the campsite Arena Stupice this travel report is created.

Our travel report “GREECE TRAVEL DOCUMENTARY | Offroad secrets along the coast: Pieria, Pelion, Damouchari, Fakistra, Trikeri” on Youtube

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Der Beitrag Offroading the coasts of Greece erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

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You can find the photo-blog here.

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Slovenia is not particularly large, yet it is extremely varied. I can reach every part of the country by car after only a short drive. In many travel guides, 1 week is therefore recommended. But 7 days are not enough for Slovenia. You can easily plan 14 to 21 days to really experience the country and its hospitality.

On this trip, luck was on our side; whenever a plan didn’t work out, actual alternatives led us to the most beautiful places. Detours turned into highlights.

The North: Triglav National Park and the Kranjska Gora region

Our first port of call in Slovenia was to be Zelenki Nature Reserve.
After a short hike through the forest, we reached the reserve’s crystal-clear blue lakes.

At the bottom of the lake we see sand being stirred up at a spring. Again and again fish swim into our field of sight. But the bird life in this reserve is also impressive. I am not a bird expert, but the sounds reveal that there are a lot of feathered friends on the move here.

Towards evening we approach the Spik campsite. From here we have a breathtaking view of the mountain massif ahead, incl. the highest mountain “Spik”. What a rock formation! The campsite is the ideal starting point for the following activities in this region. In the evening we stop at the inn “Gostilna in picerija Jožica” and are delighted by the Slovenian cuisine for the first time.

Thus strengthened and well rested, we set off into the forest at 6:30 the next morning. Our destination is a large waterfall in the nearby mountain massif. Due to the early hour, we do not meet any other people on our partly adventurous, narrow and dangerous path. For the first time we notice how blue the water is here in Slovenia – even though there was heavy rainfall the night before.

The path to the waterfall leads over wooden paths, riverbeds, steep stairs and boulders. Not easy with two very active French bulldogs. Even though we were afraid at times that we would be hit by falling rocks or slip off the path, the climb to the waterfall was worth it. Just as we arrived, the sun came out and bathed the mountain, forest and water in a warm morning light.

Around noon we continue to Jasna Lake, which is also nearby. Again, clear blue water awaits us. So blue that you constantly feel the urge to go swimming or to drink something from it.

On one side of Lake Jasna we find restoration in the form of a bar and a small snack restaurant. The other sides of the lake are not covered with buildings, so we have a fantastic panorama of the lake and the mountains while we eat our burgers and drink a gin. A healthy amount of tourism-centricity in my eyes.

Lake Bled & Radovljica

We were a bit at war with Lake Bled. It all started with the fact that the camping site “Camping Bled“, directly on the lake, was fully booked. We found our pitch a little outside, at the “River Camping” campsite.

From here we took a taxi to the west side of the lake and walked eastwards along the lower side of the lake. The lake, the clear water, the island and the castle in the background are beautiful – no doubt about it. However, halfway we would have liked to stop somewhere for a glass of wine. But the gastronomic offer was limited. It was not until we reached the eastern side of Lake Bled that we stopped off at the quiet little “Caffe Peglez’n“.

The lake is quite busy, there is a lot of activity on the paths. Its surroundings feel like a “high society spot”. This is also noticeable in the hotels that have been set up and the traffic chaos at lunchtime. If you are looking for a quiet, natural lake for hiking and swimming, we think Lake Bohinj is a better choice.

Our taxi driver gave us a little insider tip, because she lives in Bled’s neighbouring municipality Radovljica. The old town welcomes visitors with small bars and a cute church quarter. We especially liked the ice cream parlour. What we didn’t like so much was a large swarm of bees that had taken up residence at the town hall, but also made the surrounding seating areas unsafe.

The church has a small hidden museum in an old bunker (the low door of which is a great place to bang your head).

Our local taxi driver recommended the inns “Kunstelj” and “Avguštin“. We stopped at the latter and once again enjoyed the Slovenian cuisine.

Vintgar Gorge

The Vintgar Gorge leads the visitor over boardwalks directly by the river through a beautiful gorge. Along the rushing river we admire the green vegetation and the bluish-green water. The Vintgar Gorge is a place for inner meditation, for pausing and admiring nature and a Mecca for photographers – at least as long as there are no crowds of visitors squeezing along the paths.

We got up early once again. The gorge opens at 7:30 a.m. and we were the first visitors. This way we had a lot of space, a lot of time for (deserted) photos and also enough room for our dogs. The blue water especially unfolds its effect on photos in a long exposure of 1/12s to 1/8s.

Two waterfalls await us at the end of the gorge. As the gorge is only a one-way street, the way back leads us around the outside of the mountain. Along the way we enjoy flowering mountain meadows, chapels and a fantastic view all the way to Lake Bled. All in all, you should allow about 3 to 4 hours for the entire route.

Lake Bohinj

Our taxi driver told us that Slovenians often prefer to go to Lake Bohinj for their bathing holidays rather than to the crowded Lake Bled. And so we also ended up in this great place. Shortly before 11:00 a.m. we arrived at the campsite “Camp Bohinj” – and that was our good fortune.

This campsite follows the “chaos principle” when it comes to allocating pitches. There are no fixed pitches, no reservations, you just find a suitable pitch. This is charming in terms of flexibility and visits without reservations, but it also has its downsides. Unfortunately, there are enough people without decency and education who take advantage of the flexible choice of space and park right in front of your door or in your field of vision without any consideration – also without any consideration for driving paths when leaving.

Greetings at this point to the young couple from Munich who squeezed their rented van between two campers parked directly on the lake (yes, between the green VW bus and the lake) and not only took away their view, but also their seat. That was unparalleled in audacity. Your Austrian neighbour said nobly that you lack sensitivity, I say you are selfish assholes.

To avoid such people, it’s better to make yourself a little “wider” on arrival: move out the furniture, extend the sunshade, park diagonally. That’s not the best way either, but unfortunately it seems to be necessary.

At the campsite there is a small restaurant, covered but open to the sides, with excellent pizzas and local craft beers. If you ask nicely, you can take the glasses and bottles down to the lake or to the campsite. The next day we hired a wooden rowboat to take us to the other side of the lake. Here we found a lovely little bay with warm water, colourful fish life and an ideal swimming spot.

Soča Valley and Kobarid

There are days when you wonder why you didn’t just drive to the hotel. This was one of them. With a length of 7.50 m and a weight of 4.6 tonnes, mountain passes are not much fun anyway, or even cause sweating. Add to that roads that are too narrow, oncoming traffic and no possibilities to evade, and it just becomes even more exhausting. We completed the 68km route from Bohinj to Tolmin in about 4.5 hours with 5 breaks to cool down the brakes. By car, the route takes no more than half that time.

When we arrived in Tolmin, we found that only very remote campsites were still available and there were no taxi companies or suitable bus connections to the nearest sights. As “Plan B” we chose a campsite near Kobarid and the difficult journey was finally rewarded with this jewel of a campsite: With the “Kamp Lazar” we found one of the most beautiful places on our route. Situated directly on the beautiful Soča, the site impressed us with its restaurant, among other things. The site and restaurant terrace are laid out like a ranch. For dinner, a campfire is lit outside, accompanied by the softest and best pork ribs I have ever tasted. Everything here was done with love: the reception, the pitch, the food and also the conversation with the owner Edi. Under this link you can read in the yellow box why he built the campsite Lazar the way he did and what dream he realised with it.

Camp Lazar is an ideal place to start hiking along the Soča. We find real primeval forests, old trees, abandoned farmhouses and old stables. Some of the hiking trails, however, turn out to be a challenge for man and dog that should not be underestimated.

Not far from the camp there is another gorge, at the end of which a magnificent, light-flooded waterfall awaits the visitor in an underground limestone cave. Here at the “Kozjak Fall“, you once again feel the urge to go into this wonderful water or to drink from the streams.

A greeting at this point to Susanne and Maik from the blog “Maggy-on-Tour“, whom we had the pleasure to meet in Kamp Lazar. Your stories, your blog and your travel recommendations have inspired us with regard to future travel destinations and our future way of travelling. We had great evenings with you in the restaurant and around the campfire. We wish you all the best for your travels!

Along the Soča to the coast

We first follow the Soča through its valley and reach the picturesque town of “Kanal ob Soči“.
We start the day in a small street café by the village fountain. Because everything here is so wonderfully uncomplicated. The waitress recommended that we buy pastries to go with our coffee at the bakery next door, and we could eat them at her table. While we drink our very good coffee and eat our pastries, the city comes to life. It is Sunday, the sun’s rays are getting warmer, the church bells are ringing. People come out of their houses and chat in the streets. Life is beautiful.

After our morning visit to “Kanal ob Soči” we travel further south to Solkan. Here the largest cantilever stone arch bridge in the world awaits us, over which the Bohinj railway line runs between Jesenice and Gorica: The Solkan Bridge. It was nice to see it, but we weren’t blown away by the bridge – but that may have been due to the hot temperatures. Instead, we stopped at the restaurant “Ošterija Žogica” at the foot of the bridge and had a great afternoon there.

Arriving at the coast near Izola and Porto Roz, we found out that the only 50km long Slovenian coastline is extremely crowded in July and August. There were no free campsites, and parking spaces for the large camper van were scarce. Party people everywhere. After a short search, we found out that the ratings of the (expensive) campsites on the coast were also rather poor: Users reported on drunken brawlers and the very last thing we need on holiday is a party feeling like on Mallorca’s Ballermann beach.

But once again, it is alternative planning that leads us to the real treasures. In the newly discovered app “Camp4Night” we became aware of the pitches at Robivera. The owner Robert runs a winery and a kind of self-catering farm with olive plantation and animals here with his family. This farm is also marketed as a tourist farm with a restaurant.

This evening was to be the highlight of our culinary trip to Slovenia and at the same time an experience of hospitality that will certainly remain unparalleled in our lives for a long time to come.

At noon I had already phoned to ask if there was still a pitch available for us. A young female voice answered in perfect English. After our arrival, I went to the main courtyard, because I had to register somewhere. But I didn’t find the right door straight away and didn’t want to barge in impetuously. Then Robert saw me and came towards me. In quite good German he explained to me that we should first arrive and settle ourselves. We should connect our electricity and take in water if necessary. He would join us in a moment, at the moment there was still a closed party for dinner. We used the time to shower and change in the camper van, then there was a knock. Robert and his daughter were standing at our door with a smile. We could come for dinner now, because the big party had left.

We took our seats at one of the three large wooden tables on the veranda. The table was laid with a fresh white tablecloth. Robert and daughter explained that there was no menu, only seasonal food from their own production and of course their own wines.

The salads tasted like grandma used to make in the garden, the tomatoes had an intense, sweet flavour, the meat of the main course was a dream. But the highlight was the starter: Home-made ham on home-made bread and grilled aubergine with olive oil. Michelle actually hates fat in ham or meat. But I swear to God, the fat in this ham was buttery and tasted like heaven. Even Michelle didn’t leave a shred of it.

Through the olive trees flooded with golden light, we watched the sun sink into the sea at the coast.

Around quarter past nine, Robert and his daughter came to our table again. They would soon be closing up and going home and offered to bring us drinks again. When they left, the two of them brought candles to our table so that we would still have a nice time. What a nice gesture. We should just leave the glasses and bottles – just put out the candles.

Then the next morning we got a tour of the wine and ham cellar, bought wines, olive oil and homemade schnapps. Robert gave us a book about the small town and a preserved sauce. Afterwards, we took a short walk through the vineyards.

The mountain town of Štanjel

North of the coastal strip is a wine region around the former fortress town of “Štanjel”. The town with its small romantic alleys reminds us of Mont-Saint-Michel in France, but without the mass tourism and cheap, flashing Chinese souvenirs.

With almost 30 degrees in the shade, the climb up the mountain to the castle ruins is quite exhausting. Reason enough to stop at the restaurant “Grad Štanjel” and taste the sparkling wine “Tera”, which is typical for the region. The vine of this special wine grows only on the special red soil of this region. Especially well chilled, it is a great refreshment.

Camping on the farm – Milky Way included

With only 5 other campers and one tent, we spent the night on a rural farm, the “Tekavča Ograda Farm“. Our motorhome stands in the middle of a flowering meadow, chickens run around the car, bees buzz everywhere on the flowers of the meadows. In the evening there is a campfire. That’s right. A campfire at a campsite. Do that on a german North Sea campsite, you’ll be stoned to death.

While we were winding down the evening with Slovenian wine and pickled olives, I had the idea that the old barn would make a great subject for startrail or Milky Way photography – especially since the sky was cloudless. After a short study of the astro-planner in my “Photo Pills” app, a bull’s eye revealed itself: the Milky Way was to become visible directly above the barn at around 4:40 in the morning. I set my alarm clock and prepared my camera and tripod the night before.

Then at 4:20 the alarm clock rang. I got dressed quietly, took a few steps in front of the camper and started setting up and taking the first photos. I felt my way until the result was more or less what I expected. Now I just had to wait until the Milky Way “stood” perfectly above the barn. In the meantime, I watched as thick wisps of mist floated out of the forest across the fields in the distance. It was wonderfully quiet all around and I felt the morning dew on my skin.

Natural bridges and cave of Rakov Škocjan

Near Rakek we visited the naturally formed stone bridges and a cave in Rakov Škocjan National Park. In August, the river carries little to no water visible on the surface. But when we look at the caves and passages washed into the massive rocks, we can imagine how the river flows here at other times of the year or must have raged many thousands of years ago.

The approach is again somewhat challenging. We reach the car park via partly narrow gravel roads and start our hike. The hiking trails here are poorly signposted, again and again we stray from the right path. On our tour we come to a cave entrance from which you can descend into the Weaver Cave. Warning signs inform that the cave is not part of the official nature trails and that you descend at your own risk.

Sometimes one is careless. Too careless, and so I descend into the cave, hunting for memories and photo opportunities. After 10 metres, the steps end. Scree and steel ropes to hold on to follow. I continue to descend until I finally arrive at a kind of scree ramp that leads deeper into the cave. I start to have doubts about whether it is really worth continuing the descent, but then I try it and involuntarily slide down the scree to the cave floor. Now I was at the bottom. I take some photos, let the drone go up, wonder about a candle burning in the cave and start the ascent. In vain. Three times I slip down again in the scree field. The camera is damaged, I scrape my knees, my hands are hurt. When I reach the bottom again, I look for a big stick. With it I manage to half-crawl my way back up to the stairs. I hadn’t thought it would be like this. Drenched in sweat and exhausted, I survived this adventure. Don’t take this cave lightly!

At some point, in the absence of signposting, we simply follow the road to the highest point of the hiking area, where an old church ruin and its amphibious inhabitants await us. But we wonder where these stone bridges are supposed to be. Only after studying the map on the smartphone do we realise that we are in fact standing on the wide arch of the bridge and have to descend into the valley to see it.

Camping and Bar at “Big Berry”

We wished we had had one more day, then we would have stayed another night here to participate in the night and bar life. It was only when we paid in the morning that we found out that “Big Berry” also has a small beach and a bar in addition to a wonderful view and a river running directly in front of the car.

The site was originally built as a model site for wooden holiday homes and only then was the camping business expanded. To this day, visitors can also rent glamping holiday homes and then visit the bar or the rooftop bar of the main house in the evening while listening to lounge music. Our visit to the bar was only enough for a coffee and a bit of pastry for breakfast due to lack of time.

“Izvir reke Krupe” Waterfall and Lake

At Semič we admire another spring, the resulting river and the surrounding hiking area “Izvir reke Krupe“.

A spring rises under a rock face. The emerging water is dammed to form a small, blue lake and then flows off via smaller basins until it becomes a stately river.

Suspension bridges lead the hiking trail across the river. We discover little wonder worlds of water fern under the river surface. At one point we admire the unfinished work of a beaver – a little more nibbling, then the tree falls, little rodent friend.

The Žalec Beer Fountain

On our way north, we stop in the small town of Žalec.
Admittedly, the town is not particularly worth seeing, apart from the old town and the local beer fountain. We spend the night on one of 4 camper van pitches on a large car park between a hotel and a sports field. The site is not pretty, but the overnight stay is free, even with electricity and supply and disposal. So they are doing something for tourism and seem to know that a beer fountain is only attractive if visitors can also spend the night close by.

First we stop at the Kolodvor pub. We (actually rather our French bulldogs) quickly make friends with the wait staff. They serve super tasty calamari and burgers. Then it’s on to the beer fountain.

The beer fountain is a delicious attraction. We buy two beer mugs with 6 fillings each. With these mugs, we can now tap a beer 6 times each. The whole thing is controlled via an NFC chip stored in the jug.

There is a choice of 6 different local craft beers. One that is reminiscent of an apple juice due to its cloudiness and taste, a craft beer with hemp addition but also more classic beers like dark or India Pale Ales.

The beer fountain is centrally located and surrounded by a well-kept park with old trees. We find a seat in the beach furniture set up there, watch the colourful hustle and bustle at the fountain and sit in the middle of a green oasis in this otherwise rather grey, small city. We would come back any time.

The Jeruzalem wine region

Tourists get their money’s worth in the Jeruzalem wine region. There are inns, wineries with flats, tours through vineyards and much more. The sunsets bathe the vineyards in a warm, soft light.

For lunch we enjoy a small cheese platter and local vegetables at the restaurant “Vinski hram Brenholc Jeruzalem“. The view from our table is breathtaking, the cheeses stunning. I am not a fan of the exponential use of superlatives, but here I have to use them deliberately to make clear how good this meal tasted.

Once again, we have to thank the “Park4Night” app for this evening’s pitch. The winery “Vinska Klet Puklavec” offers four camper pitches right next to the main house. Great view over the vineyards, great food in the evening. We take it easy, lie down in the deckchairs provided, edit the first photos, drink local Šipon and Muskat Ottonel.

Here we learn why the vegetables taste so good: There are no imported products here. Restaurants are required by law to buy and use local produce. This ensures that it is worthwhile for local farmers to offer high-quality goods. As a true advocate of the free market economy, I unfortunately have to admit that the market obviously doesn’t regulate everything on its own. German supermarket tomatoes simply cannot compete.

From Maribor back via the Herzerl road

At the end of our trip we visited Maribor. The city attracts with an old town and a large bar and pub scene. In addition to the spruced-up corners of the city, there is also the dirty, somewhat dodgy Maribor. The visit reminds us of Prague, and we can imagine that these not-so-chic corners can certainly unfold their charm in the nightlife at dusk. It’s just that with temperatures of over 30 degrees in the small streets, we don’t really want to get into the evening mood.

A small café that we really wanted to visit seems not to have survived the Corona pandemic. Instead, we drink a last Slovenian Šipon by the Drava, but then flee from the wasps, which for some reason like to fly behind my glasses and at my eyes.

Our last stop in Slovenia is the Herzerl road. This lies directly on the Slovenian-Austrian border. A road through a vineyard forms – viewed from the right angle – a heart on the Slovenian side of the border.

It’s a nice picture to end with this blog, because we fell in love with Slovenia: with the people, the hospitality, the down-to-earth way of life and the nature. Slovenia, we will be back. For sure. Maybe with a smaller vehicle, maybe with a Defender with a roof tent.

Here is our travel report on Youtube!

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Our photography equipment

Our photos and videos were taken with the following cameras, lenses and accessories.

Nikon Z6II mirrorless full-frame camera (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 20mm 1.8 S (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 24-200mm 1:4.0-6.3 VR (*)

Photo editing on iPad Pro with Adobe Creative Cloud Photo Subscription with Lightroom (*)

Travel tripod Rollei Compact Traveller No. 1 Carbon (*)

Camera support system Peak Design Capture Clip (*)

* All links marked with an asterisk are Amazon affiliate links.

Der Beitrag Camper van road trip through Slovenia: Real insider tips erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Restrictions due to low season and only on the surface campervan-friendly

This blog post almost didn’t exist. Although Brittany and Normandy offer breathtaking landscapes and an excellent cuisine, our daily travels sometimes presented us with various challenges, not to mention disappointments. In the meantime, in particularly frustrating moments, we said several times: “No, we don’t advertise these regions in the form of a travelblog”.

Several times we had the feeling that the travelled regions only wanted to be attractive for tourists during the absolute peak season, namely the French holiday season in July. Too often at the end of June we stood in front of closed restaurants, camping sites or even in almost extinct cities. At the Rosagranit coast in Ploumanach we wanted, like many other tourists, to have dinner in the evening, but in the whole village there were only two open restaurants, all completely occupied and fully booked. All other restaurants were still closed. There would have been enough guests. One could think to have found out slightly sarcastically why France has to struggle with such a high (youth) unemployment: Probably because nobody works – except in July. For a region that is ambitious in terms of tourism, this is poor.

For motorhome travellers there is another serious point of frustration: parking motorhomes in public parking lots is almost impossible. Height-limiting beams prevent motorhomes from entering almost all central car parks. Presumably so that motorhome owners are more likely to drive to the local campsites. This in itself is an approach that we can understand against the economic background, but which only makes sense if the campsites are actually open. Small consolation: There are a lot of motorhome sites with supply and disposal. Unfortunately, these are often located far outside the villages. Due to the lack of alternatives, we often had to park on camper sites and often had to pay for whole overnight stays, although we only spent a few hours on site. In our eyes this country is therefore only superficial.

If one would simply pronounce overnight bans on parking lots instead of height barriers, the visit of some places would be less complicated and more pleasant.

Now that we got rid of our frustration right at the beginning of this article, we can leave out the beautiful things like cuisine, culture and nature in the rest of the blog entry.
Have fun with our photos and tips!

1. Day: Porta Westfalica – Dunkerque

Dunkerque is to become the starting point of our journey. At 7:30 am we leave Porta Westfalica and make a stopover in Mühlheim an der Ruhr. Here we get the so-called ACSI card from a camping outfitter close to the motorway, with which we expect discounts at various camping sites in the low season. At the end of our holiday the 26€ Campingcard has earned us a discount of one (in numbers “1”) Euro – in our case a complete failure.

Our dog Trüffel spends the trip in the foot space of the co-driver, it is the first time motorhome with dog. We are curious what awaits us. Around 15:15 o’clock we reach the parking lot in Dunkirk.

Mirrored bunker at the beach of Dunkerque  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

From the dunes in front of the campsite we see something silver on the horizon shining in the sun. Looks like a huge cuboid wrapped in aluminium foil. As we get closer, we realize that it is a bunker completely covered with mirror shards from the Second World War.

Michelle’s mirror image in the shards glued to the bunker – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

A kind of art project from the year 2016: the broken fragments of mirrors, in which the face of each observer is reflected, offer infinite space for interpretation.

Remains of bunkers from the Second World War – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

A few 100 metres away are the other bunkers. Not as grey as they used to be, some only covered with graffiti, others transformed into real works of art by graffiti. We do know the bunkers on Denmark’s west coast, but we haven’t seen such a bunker village as here yet. The complex here consists of several buildings with catacomb-like accommodations and guard buildings.

Graffiti with historical reference at one of the bunker remains – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Admittedly, it feels oppressive and wrong to take German photos of the bunkers. Nobody should think that we like what happened here just because we take pictures of it. Only a few days ago the D-Day remembrance celebrations took place here. During the storm on these bunkers probably countless people lost their lives. This must never happen again on European ground.

Bath cabins on the beach of Dunkerque in front of a threatening rain front – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Towards evening we head west, into the city centre of Dunkirk. We stroll along the front row of beaches, past the bathing huts to the restaurant “Face à la mer”. The French cuisine welcomes us with mussels in garlic cream and white wine stock and the weather with a warm light in a threatening, dark cloud scenery.

Daniel was in France for the last time in 2005. At that time nobody spoke English, especially not by himself. Today we were addressed several times directly in English, when the locals noticed that we were not completely capable of the national language. A development that in itself was accommodating. In a bar we were even addressed in perfect German. Crazy world. Should that be the case everywhere now? Yes.

2. Day: Dunkerque – Cap Blanc-Nez – Stella Plage – Dieppe

The day begins with an instant coffee in the motorhome. It doesn’t taste like freshly ground coffee, but it’s a tradition, for us it’s just part of it. We set off for a short detour to “Cap Blanc-Nez”, a stretch of coast on France’s chalk cliff coast. In good weather one should be able to recognize the war rocks in front of Dover. Today this is not so. In the foggy air above the English Channel the visibility is very limited. We walk a little around the Cap Blanc-Nez and once again we notice the traces of the war. The hills around the Cap are dotted with bomb funnels, which can still be seen today. No wonder, because the Germans had installed a casemate facility here, which was able to shoot tons of projectiles into the cities at England’s south coast.

Chalk cliffs at Cap Blanc-Nez – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

In advance we had read a blog that recommended a free parking space in Stella Plage. Directly behind the dunes one can park here with the camper van and reach the wide beach in only a few minutes on foot. This should be great especially for dog owners to be able to let the four-legged friend walk without a leash. The blog was right about the parking place and the beach, but Stella Plage is a ghost town. The city planned on the drawing board was almost deserted, half decayed restaurants and bars as far as the eye could see. We dare to doubt if this looks different in the high season.

This is what Stella Plage looks like and Macron is probably to blame for it. Uh-huh. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

After an extensive walk along the beach we return to the camper site and decide to continue our journey towards Dieppe. The afternoon is still young and we also want to have dinner somewhere in civilisation tonight. Stella Plage is almost scary, there are definitely more beautiful places.

Our dog ” Trüffel ” has fun at the wide beach of Stella Plage – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

3. Day: Dieppe – Étretat – Phare D’Antifer – Honfleur

Our plan from the previous day was only partly successful. In Dieppe we stopped at a fish restaurant the evening before and ate the first seafood platter we had longed for. Unfortunately it was very expensive, but not very good. The crabs had probably died of old age. At least we stopped at a small bar afterwards, that was a nice conclusion. The mobile home parking place in Dieppe is basically a better parking place and therefore not worth mentioning. The only advantage is that one gets quickly to the city.

Thus, before we leave in the morning, we buy some fresh pastries and fruit for the way and then we start our way to Étretat.

Michelle on the rocks of Étretat, in the background the famous rock arch – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Ètretat is definitely worth a visit, especially for those who like to take photos. The chalk cliffs and the famous arch are excellent motifs. There is only one thing you should not do here, and that is to rely on Google Maps navigation if you want to follow the route on foot to the rocks. We walk up a mountain for three quarters of an hour and then realize that the navigation app wants to guide us over a fenced golf course. Well, that’s how Daniel comes to do some sport.

The northern chalk cliffs of Étretat  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 90 seconds

The southern chalk cliffs of Étretat  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 90 seconds

We’re heading for Honfleur from Étretat. Here a beautiful harbour town with old houses, romantic alleys and good restaurants awaits us. If only it weren’t for the search for a suitable pitch for the night. There are about 300 motorhomes parked on the designated motorhome site, the site is packed, no chance. As an emergency solution we want to drive to another local campsite, which can only be reached by a particularly narrow lane.

When Daniel narrowly escaped a nervous break due to the narrow street, we notice that also the camping site is completely occupied. Another campsite, a little further outside has already closed, and so we search on satellite pictures at Google Maps for suitable sites. Finally we find what we are looking for. There are already 15 other motorhomes on a parking lot that is used by buses. The place is free, we stand directly at the water, definitely better than the official and overcrowded place.

The port of Honfleur at the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max.120 seconds

After an extensive dinner in the “Le Bistro du Port” our mood gets better again. The day has been quite a good one for us, especially the frustration with the pitches in between. The blue hour rewards our efforts with beautiful views in the historic old town of Honfleur and all the trouble is forgotten.

View into the romantic back streets of Honfleur – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

4. Day: Honfleur – Nez de Jobourg

In order to get to the Nez de Jobourg, roads and car dimensions present us with some new challenges. Sweat-bathed we finally reach our free parking space again with a view of the lighthouse.

View from the cliffs at Nez de Jobourg – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

We walk over the cliffs, Daniel climbs down the steep rocks to take pictures. If we hadn’t bought something for the barbecue, we would probably have stopped for dinner at the “Auberge des Grottes”, a cute restaurant with friendly and cordial service, where we stopped for a beer after our hike.

This is a great view from our pitch at the Cap de Jobourg: In the distance the lighthouse lights up at night. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

5. Day: Nez de Jobourg – Mont St. Michel – Cancale

For those who want to watch Japanese tourists squeezing their way through supposedly romantic old town alleys on holiday and buy soft ice cream or plastic souvenirs made in China in the light of flickering LED advertisements, Mont St. Michel is a real must-see. If you don’t belong to this group, stay away. Take a look at the following pictures and imagine small, almost deserted alleys in the romantic lantern light. It doesn’t get any better than in your imagination.

View on Mont St. Michel – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

This picture of Mont St. Michel is a lie: It looks deserted, but it is only because of the long exposure. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

After the overcrowded Mont St. Michel we continue to Cancale, the oyster capital of France. We quickly find a camper van site near Cancale, from here we reach the restaurant “Au Pied d’Cheval” in only 15 minutes on foot. With warm service we sit outside in the sunshine and drink Chardonnay to the best seafood platter of all times. What a cute restaurant with a great outdoor terrace. But the name of the restaurant comes from the tool used to open the oysters: a mixture of horseshoe and crowbar is used to crack the oysters – an ingenious construction that also seems to work: We do not find any shell pieces in our oysters.

The best seafood plate of the holiday in Cancale – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

6. Day: Cancale – Rothéneuf – St. Malo

The beach of Rothéneuf was actually on our list as a possible pitch. But since we were here early in the morning, we only visited this place without an overnight stay. Instead we munched our breakfast from a bakery near Cancale. During the morning walk we took the following pictures.

Dried algae on the beach of Rothéneuf – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Low tide at the beach of Rothéneuf – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Our pitch in St. Malo is far outside. The way to the city centre is not necessarily nice, one walks past the ferry terminals and the freight harbour. Also otherwise St. Malo has not necessarily hit us from the stool. The city is strongly influenced by tourism, with all the disadvantages that this entails: expensive food of bad quality, overcrowded places, garbage. Only at the north side of the city walls ending in the water we take a long time picture of the surf, drink a cider and then go back to the camper van. St. Malo – you can do that, but you don’t have to.

Waves at the walls of St. Malo – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 20 seconds

7. Day: St. Malo – Dinan – Fort La Latte – Cap Fréhel

Dinan actually consists of two parts: The upper old town and the small harbour “Port de Dinan”. Both districts knock us down, whereby we like the harbour area much more than the upper oldtown. We have lunch, the sun shines, which is a nice day. Those who like can spend the night in a camper van very close to the “Port de Dinan”. Today, we only use this parking place for parking (and actually we don’t have to pay for the whole night).

Port de Dinan – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

We continue to one of the most famous and impressive caps of the French Atlantic coast, the “Cap Fréhel”. Here, too, Daniel spares no effort and danger for the perfect cliff photo. Michelle can’t watch it at all, nor can truffles. But the difficult descent is worth it, great pictures are taken.

View from the cliffs of the Cap Fréhel – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

You can’t hear anything down on the cliffs where Daniel takes the pictures. No tourists, no cars, only the dull waves on the rough cliffs, the seabirds and the wind. It may sound artificial and hackneyed, but such moments are rare in life. This rocky promontory has something meditative and calming that we have never experienced before. Nothing else is important down here, just the moment – and perhaps to watch where you step.

Cap Fréhel and its lighthouse – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

8. Day: Cap Frehel – Abbaye de Beauport – Plougrescant – Ploumanach

On our way to Plougrescant we pass the “Abbaye de Beauport” and visit it. A ruined church that was reconquered by nature. Unfortunately the Abbaye has closed and we can only admire it from the outside and through fences.

The Abbaye de Beauport – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Let us come to a highlight of the trip, that is the coast at Plougrescant. Here stands the famous “house between the rocks”. But this place has even more to offer. This coastal section appears almost unreal with its different landscapes that are so close to each other. While we look in one direction into a kind of rock desert, we look in the opposite direction into a green meadow landscape and feel reminded of the hobbit empire of Lord of the Rings.

The “House between the rocks” in Plougrescant – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

As in the Shire: Landscape on the opposite side of the “House between the rocks” – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

The weather today is mixed. The sun is not shining, grey clouds are hanging in the sky, in between it is drizzling. And that’s a good thing, because the weather suits this landscape. In between the sun shines through the clouds and plunges individual areas of nature into a golden light, which is typical for us in Brittany. It doesn’t bother us that we often wear a rain parka, somehow it feels as if it has to be like this.

Rocky landscape like on another planet in Plougrescant – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Typical Brittany: The sun shines through the clouds and bathes the landscape in a unique light. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Towards evening we reach our present pitch, a campsite on the Rosa Granit coast near Ploumanach. For dinner we want to go to the city and according to the woman at the campsite reception, it is only a 30 minute walk to the campsite. So we set off. It follows the most beautiful walk for a long time.

On the way to the lighthouse of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The Pink Granite Coast near Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Lighthouse of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

As beautiful as the walk is, if you take a lot of photos, you won’t make it in 30 minutes. After 1 1/2 hours we reach the city. This is one of those sobering evenings. Of 12 restaurants, only two are open, but they are completely occupied and overcrowded. Also other tourists desperately look for a table in the restaurants. Too bad. Potential wasted in our eyes. On this evening there is spaghetti with sauce in the motorhome.

Old chapel on the coastline of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

9. Day: Ploumanach – Roscoff

Today it’s all about Roscoff. First we visit the botanical garden. A non-profit association manages here with much love and work a large area, which is in no way inferior to the famous gardens in the south of England. A visit is worthwhile in any case.

Cactus pavilion in the botanical garden of Roscoff – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Also today we stand on a free parking lot south-west of the city centre of Roscoff. On foot we go inland, eat crépes, drink cider and visit the fishing port. Only in the evening we notice that our pitch is directly in front of an abandoned “ghost castle” with a terrible history.

Nothing goes on here: Ebb tide in Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

View over the garden fence in Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Daniel waits longingly for his crepe in Roscoff, after all the cider is already there. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Fishing boats are waiting for the tide in the port of Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

10. Day: Roscoff – Mont’s D’arrée – Huelgoat

Today’s tour takes us inland. At the highest mountain of Northern France we visit the small mountain chapel “Mont Saint-Michel de Brasparts”. The climb up here was worth it, the view is breathtaking.

The old mountain chapel on Mont D’arré – Nikon D500, Samyang 8mm Fisheye | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

Fish-Eye photo inside the mountain chapel at the Mont D’arré – Nikon D500, Samyang 8mm Fisheye | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

On the altar of the mountain chapel travellers from all over the world have placed small souvenirs and presents. On handwritten notes on the altar the visitors ask for the fulfilment of their wishes, health, peace, justice. Let us hope that the wishes will come true.

The altar of the mountain chapel at the Mont D’arré – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Arriving in Huelgoat, we set off for the forest. In a gorge, huge, roundish stones, like shaped by a giant, await us, which are washed around or under by watercourses every now and then. Along the old water mill we make our way deeper into the forest.

Long-term exposure of the old water mill in Huelgoat – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We make our way deeper into the forest of Huelgoat and squeeze ourselves through the narrow rocks – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Daniel explores the rocks in the forest of Huelgoat – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

If you have seen enough rocks, you can end your trip with a cute creperie in the forest. A hearty “Galette” or a sweet “Crépes” as well as a cider will help you to process your impressions.

11. Day: Huelgoat – Le Phare Petit Minou – Roscanvel – Camaret sur mer

Today is the day when you could go on a beach holiday. The bay at the Phare Petit Minou and the sunny weather invite inevitably to it. Unfortunately, there is still a longer tour on our list, which is why we skip the part about bathing.

A sunny day at Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

The lighthouse Phare Petit Minou seen from its bay – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

A sunny day at Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

View of the Strait in front of Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Next stop on our tour is Roscanvel with the “Îlot des Capucins”, on the Crozon Peninsula. On the Crozon Peninsula you really seem to hate motorhomes. Parking is forbidden almost everywhere, but campsites do not open until July. Thanks for nothing.

Daniel on a cliff ledge of the cliffs of Roscanvel – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

The strategic fort “Fort des Capucins” was built in 1848. With its artillery batteries, it controlled access to the Strait of Brest. During the Second World War, the island and its buildings were severely damaged by Allied bombing after German occupation. The island is not touristically developed, the access is officially forbidden, but not impossible. Those who want to venture down the narrow rock stairs should wear sturdy shoes and have no fear of heights. Neither the descent nor the stay on the island is completely harmless.

Descent to “Îlot des Capucins” – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

On the old bridge to the island “Îlot des Capucins” you can see Daniel – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

This place is creepy. This is partly due to the eventful history of this island, its “Lost Places” character, partly due to the creepy Grafittis and the uncanny silence down here. Inevitably you have to imagine what the life of the soldiers down here must have been like. How did the people here live in everyday life? Did the stationed people long for their wives and families? Were they afraid? How long did the occupying forces know that the Allies were on their way to them? These questions contribute to the fact that a stay on the “Îlot des Capucins” feels queasy and oppressive.

The ruins on the “Îlot des Capucins” were conquered by flora and fauna – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Some ruins of the der “Îlot des Capucins” were decorated with partly creepy Grafittis– Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

In the evening we stand on a campsite in Camaret sur mer. In the small village we find great restaurants, bars, the harbour church and a ship cemetery. We can only recommend this place to every traveller.

The ship cemetery of Camaret sur mer – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

The old ship is tired – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Highlight of Camaret sur mer for us is the bar “Rhumerie”. Here there are not only various Breton beers and handmade coctails, but also various kinds of rum, refined by ingredients such as caramel, almonds, etc. wait for the guest. Rarely do you experience that restaurateurs do their job with so much joy, dedication and cordiality as here. We are thrilled.

In the “Rhumerie” of Camaret sur mer the day comes to an end – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

12. Day: Camaret sur mer – Locronan

Before we leave Camaret sur mer for good, we visit the stone circle and the ruins of the house “Manoir De Coecilian” of the writer and poet Saint-Pol-Roux.

Stone circles in Camaret sur Mer  – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Ruins of the Manoir De Coecilian house of the writer and poet Saint-Pol-Roux in Camaret sur mer – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

“Manoir De Coecilian” was once a pretty estate of the poet Saint-Pol-Roux near the coast. The house has a turbulent history behind it: on the night of 24 June 1940, a soldier of the German Wehrmacht attacked the house, killed his housekeeper and injured his daughter Divine. On 3 October the estate was plundered and many manuscripts destroyed. On 18 October 1940, Saint-Pol-Roux died in Brest. In 1944, the estate was bombed and destroyed by the Allies, a large part of the manuscripts remained missing.

Painting on the remains of the “Manoir De Coecilian” in Camaret sur mer – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Around noon we reach our campsite in Locronan, one of the most beautiful villages in France. Here we meet the friendliest campsite operator in the world and indulge in culinary delights. We not only buy fine Breton caramel and chocolate products, but also eat in the Michelin restaurant “Ar Maen Hir” – an absolute must-have during a visit to Locronan.

A wide selection of Breton chocolate and caramel in Locronan – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

13. Day: Locronan – Concarneaux – Pont-Aven – St. Cado

With a stopover in Pont-Aven we continue our journey. The small town, with its innumerable artists’ studios, has become a tourist magnet. Unfortunately, because one notices this at overcrowded sidewalks, restaurants and the hectic crowd. This place is not necessarily suitable for relaxing.

Ebb tide in Pont-Aven – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

In the evening we reach our camping site near the small island “St. Cado”. Also here all restaurants have already closed at 19:00 o’clock, only a small bar at the harbour welcomes us for one or two beers and cider.

The island St. Cado at the beginning of the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

A lonely house on a small island near St. Cado – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art |HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

14. Day:  St. Cado – Étel – Quiberon – Montlouis sur Loire

Today we’re going to Belle-Île. We start in St. Cado, first visit the ship cemetery in Étel and then drive on to the Quiberon peninsula, from where we want to cross over to Belle-Île.

The skeleton of an old fishing boat at the ship graveyard of Étel- Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

To cut a long story short: the Quiberon peninsula is a nightmare for campers and motorhomes. Every parking lot forbidden, height barriers and not even at the roadside you can stop for a small snapshot, because all roadsides are barricaded with wooden posts. Conveniently located camping or pitches? No, not at all.

When we arrive at the ferry terminal to Belle-Île, an extremely unfriendly port employee tells us that there would be no crossing to Belle-Île without a reservation.

We are frustrated and annoyed and leave Brittany early. Another 7 hours later we reach the campsite in Montlouis sur Loire in the Loire valley. Here we buy some crates of wine the next day and slowly start our way home via the “Lac du der” at Giffaumont-Champaubert (not recommended), Luxembourg and the Moselle at Bremm. The France travelogue ends at this point.

Finally a picture of our Trüffle in the camper bedroom – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

What photographic equipment did we have with us?

Below you will find affiliate links to the equipment we use:

• Camera Nikon D500
• Camera Nikon D7500
• Lens Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Lens Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Lens Walimex Pro 8mm f1:3,5 Fish-Eye
• ND-Filterset HAIDA Slim PRO II
• Rollei Cable remote shutter for Nikon
• Traveltripod Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g incl. tripodhead)
• Camera-Carrying-System Peak Design Capture Clip v3
• Waterproof photo backpack from Beschoi
• iPhone 8 Plus

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag A June in Brittany – Travelling the Atlantic coast of France by motorhome erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

London has a huge amount of culture and history to offer. In addition there are wax figures, Ferris wheels and palaces. Let’s forget all this and concentrate on the really important things like restaurants, bars and streetfood markets. In between we visit some sights that are mostly not part of any bus or guided tours – a real quality feature.
For five days we explore the known and the new, discover the hidden, eat and drink our way through the capital and take pictures.

Chamberlains Fishrestaurant and Leadenhall Market

Dinner in “Chamberlains Fishrestaurant” at Leadenhall Market – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Hyde Park

For us there is a very clear reason why one should visit the Hyde Park: Greedy, friendly squirrels.

Squirrels in Hyde Park – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

With a walnut in the lens hood of the wide-angle lens, the small gnawers can be lured very close to the camera. Or on the lap or on the hand.
On this day Daniel can feel like a real Disney princess. The attempt to attract a green parrot with a nut works and the little feathered guy lands on Daniel’s hand. Unfortunately nobody saw him except Daniel himself. Damn it.

Skeptical squirrel in Hyde Park – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Elan Café

Very close to Hyde Park, at its eastern end at “Park Lane” there is a cute little café – the “ELAN Café“. The guest can expect delicious and artfully created pastries, cakes or fresh sandwiches. In addition, unusual drinks and compositions of tea and coffee are served. We eat a saffron doughnut and an extremely beautifully arranged Strawberry Cheesecake. Never before has such a small piece of cake brought so much joy to us. We also drink an iced tea from the French Press that reminds us of a mojito.

Small cakes in the “Elan Café” – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Camden Market / Streetfood / The Elephants Head

Record shops, hipsters, street food, colourful house facades. Admittedly, with our visit to the Camden market we have broken a little with the promised freedom from tourists. This part of town is full of tourists. Why were we here anyway?

View from the window of one of the Camden Market halls – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Quite simply: The architecture of the old market halls is a dream for every photographer and in order to relax from it, the visitor is offered a wide range of culinary street food.

Markthalle auf dem Camden Market – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Besides, a lot of garbage is sold on this market, you have to say that quite clearly. Cheap goods from China, pseudo-paintings from London, which in reality are printed in masses in Taiwan, all kinds of plastic garbage, which some call a souvenir. Nevertheless, in the back streets we discover quiet and somewhat remote record shops and small artists’ studios. It’s best to go where no one else is.

Indian flair in the “Namasté” shop at Camden Market – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

At lunchtime, locals, workers and tourists alike gather in the pubs, just as we stopped for a beer in the “Elephants Head“.

Sky Garden

View from the Sky Pod Bar up to the Sky Garden (The picture is from my London trip in 2016) – Nikon D7000, Nikkor 18-105mm ED 3.5-5.6 G AS-F VR

Covent Garden / Neil’s Yard / St. John Bakery

Another market that captivates with its culinary and creative offerings: Covent Garden Market. There is too much hustle and bustle here today and the offers of the individual markets are always the same somehow. So we go froleave Covent Garden Market in northern direction to the quarter called “Neal’s Yard”.

An alley in Neal’s Yard – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

We discover the small quarter with its colourful house fronts and strengthen ourselves with fresh sandwiches and doughnuts from the somewhat hidden bakery “St. John“. A great, down-to-earth shop with a large selection of fresh snacks. “Do you have any coffee?” asks Daniel, the salesman says, “Sure, filter coffee for a pound. No Grande Tall Blonde Americano Hipster coffee like everywhere else. A great conversation followed as we watched our sandwiches get made. And let’s face it, filter coffee goes great with a simple ham and mustard sandwich anyway. Besides, you don’t feel completely stupid when you pronounce the name of the coffee.

House fronts in Neal’s Yard – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

God’s own junkyard Walthamstow / Mothers ruins Gin

Nightjar

Original English breakfast on the terrace

In the warmth of the just rising sun we enjoy breakfast, on the street “Minories” we hear pedestrians talking, in the distance we hear sirens and construction site noises, but nothing disturbs us up here. This is how the city sounds – and we are very close. Thereupon a sip of hot coffee.

Columbia Road Flower Market / Oyster Boy / Clutch

Columbia Road Flower Market traders pack their stands – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

St. Dunstan in the East

Gail’s Bakery

Highgate Cemetery

Borough Market and Applebees Fish Restaurant

Teatime at the Reddoor Café in Greenwich

Der Beitrag City trip without the tourists, always looking for taste: London. erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

This map gives you a graphical overview of our route and stations.

You can also download the waypoints and the route as a KML file under this Link .

Day 1: Porta Westfalica -> Prichsenstadt
04.07.2018

Motorways, motorways and motorways. We start about 18:00 o’clock in Porta Westfalica, although we wanted to start actually already at 14:00 o’clock. Thank you dear work.

Information box at the motorhome parking lot at the Schützenhaus in Prichsenstadt – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Around 00:00 o’clock we reach the quiet “mobile home parking lot at the Schützenhaus” in the small town of Prichsenstadt. Here you can get water and electricity for 8,50 Euro per night – in addition there is a cute information box with envelopes for the insertion of money, information about the surroundings and written information from the campground attendant that you can buy schnapps from him during office hours.

Day 2: Prichsenstadt -> Rovinj
05.07.2018

We start the day with fresh lye biscuits and coffee in a small bakery in Prichsenstadt and all that for only 4,80 Euro. This place with its wine taverns and winegrower rooms really has charm. A southern German village with old town and cobblestones like from a picture book. We will definitely come back.

fountain in the centre of Prichsenstadt, in the background the bakery – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

We buy vignettes for Austria and Slovenia at a crowded petrol station behind Munich. The first 20 minutes on the motorway in Slovenia lead us to the short statement that this country is not very appealing. As we approach the coast, however, our impression is completely different: Slovenia itself is an interesting destination for us, with its green mountain ranges and small Mediterranean coastal towns. Finally we reach the Croatian border around 18:00 o’clock. Our first destination should be Rovinj.

As the first Croatian campsite we approach „Camping Polari“. It turns out that this is just such a campsite that we did not want. Four hundred own restaurants, water parks, pool areas, stages and a lot of animation for all those who just like it. We don’t like it.

Our campsite directly on the water at the campsite Polari in Rovinj – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

No matter, because our “premium pitch” in the first row at the water compensates with its view over the bay. From the other side of the bay, Helene Fischer covers with Croatian dialect sound to us in the evenings, at least in terms of craftsmanship, quite well sung. A thunderstorm with heavy rainfall and hail interrupts the spectacle and we fall asleep with the constant rainfall.

Tipp: If you want to spend the evenings outside in Krotien, you should definitely get Autan or other anti-mosquito products in spring, summer and autumn. The little beasts will kill you otherwise. 

Day 3: Rovinj
06.07.2018

The taxi boat to Rovinj invites us at 13:00 o’clock at the campsite and takes us after a 20-minute drive to the beautiful port city. Who has the possibility, should prefer the journey on the water instead of bus and taxi or the general journey on the land way. Especially from this point of view the city shows its best side.

Rovinj is perfect to reach by taxi boat – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The beautiful parts of Rovinj consist almost exclusively of the old town and small streets. These lead to the cathedral on the highest point of the city. From here you have an excellent view over the city and the surrounding bays.

 
View of the Old Town of Rovinj from the boat in the marina – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Here in Rovinj, street markets invite you to try out local wines and explore the innumerable little streets with their artists’ shops and cafés.

Laundry hangs in front of the shutters in the alleys of Rovinj – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

For lunch we eat a fish and seafood platter for two in the crease of a small alley in the „Ristaurante Marinero“. It just tastes great. Generally, there are many gems of gastronomy in the city: bars, cafés and restaurants offer enough reasons to stay several days in Rovinj and “eat your way through” everywhere.

In the alleys of Rovinj you can find hidden restaurants and cafés. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The day ends with a night swim in the small bay on the campsite, directly in front of our motorhome. After showering under the cold beach shower we are rather awake than tired.

Day 4: Rovinj -> Pula -> Premantura, Region Kap Kamenjak
07.07.2018

At home we drink our coffee from the fully automatic machine as a morning ritual, here in the motorhome we have instant coffee in the morning – with hot water from the gas hob. One last time we look at the small bay and secretly hope that not all campsites in Croatia have this resort character like this one.

Then we leave for Pula. There is supposed to be such a beautiful old arena, similar to the Colosseum in Rome. Already at the entrance to the inner city we realize that we had hoped for Pula in our imagination more beautiful. Quickly it was clear for us: Pula, that is for us the Bielefeld of Istria. Away from the centre it is rather grey and industrial, with quite nice corners, but only very few of them. Those who are here would actually rather be somewhere else. And if you have the choice, instead of visiting Pula you should plan one day more for the nature reserve Premantura south of Pula and Cape Kamenjak.

The Roman Arena of Pula – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

In the afternoon we reach the campsite „Arena Stupice“ directly above the Cape Kamenjak. Thank God, our worries were in vain, there seem to be campsites without this animation. After initial difficulties with a defective power distributor we rent a small boat with outboard motor and explore the offshore islands and coastal sections.

Camping Arena Stupice: Motorhomes in a circle on a small peninsula – Samsung S7 Rear-Camera

We anchor in a small bay with our “outboard motor yacht”, swim in extremely salty and clear sea water and Daniel gets the obligatory sunburn (I swear I really put some sunscreen on).

Day 5: Kap Kamenjak
08.07.2018

After the coffee we lift the bicycles out of the garage and set off with our bikes to Cape Kamenjak. Here the visitor can expect countless beaches with crystal clear water, pine forests and small idyllic bays. There’s only one thing that doesn’t await us here: bike paths made for classic city bikes. Our old grandma and grandpa bikes from the nineties reach their limits on the uneven gravel roads of Cape Kamenjak and their stones.

The Portic bay at Cape Kamenjak is also very popular with water sports enthusiasts – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Tipp: If you want to ride a bicycle in Croatia, you should pack mountain bikes with a decent profile and resistant tires. Everything else is torture for man and material.

At first Michelle had hoped to be able to circumnavigate the entire cape by bicycle at the coast, after all there had been enough bicycle paths signposted. Furthermore, we had already found some interesting paths on the shore during the boat tour the day before and wanted to explore them now with the bicycle. All vinegar: These ways leading around the cape prove themselves much too often as stony and stepped footpaths and were simply unsuitable for the bicycle. So we carried our old bikes around the eastern half of the cape, and then went over to drive to the remaining beaches from the “main roads” from the middle of the cape.

We grant our city bikes a short break – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

We especially remember the “Safari Bar” on the western side of the Cape. A real adventure playground for young and old has been built here between dense vegetation. Countless dense corridors through pine trees, bushes and hedges hide seating and the bar. We had a beer and a cheese and olive platter for refreshment. Maybe one or the other knows the ZDF movie “Treasure Island” from 1966 – in the “Safari Bar” you can feel a little like the crew members at the log cabin. Jim Hawkins, Silver and Doctor Livesey are just around the corner. 

Short break at the Safari Bar – Samsung S7 Rear-Camera

Also recommended is a small bay with restoration on the eastern side of the cape. In the bay „Portić“ there are delicious burgers and drinks under big pine trees. The low bar with its cute bathing bay offers a great refuge from heat and thirst and a unique ambience. 

Restoration in the bay Portic – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Day 6: Premantura Region Kap Kamenjak -> Island Cres, Town of Cres
09.07.2018

Today we leave the northern tip of Croatia called Istria. The road “66” leads us on this day through a rural region just before Raša. To the right of the road flows a river with extremely turquoise water, in the background a cloudburst illuminates the ruins of an old factory in the forest. We just have to stop and take a photo. We discover extremely thick fish in the river in front of us.

Green river just before Raša – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Shortly before Zagore we notice that our navigation system wants to send us via the island of Cres towards Krk. Well, whatever, we just follow the thing. Cres is supposed to be quite nice, Michelle says. In Brestova we drive on a completely overcrowded car ferry. We don’t notice much of the passage, because the cars are parked so close to the ferry that we can’t leave the motorhome – the doors don’t open. 

The landscape on Cres is reminiscent of a mix of Norway and Greece – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

The decision to drive over Cres was one of the best spontaneous decisions of the holiday. We follow the main road of this charming and original island, the D100 in northern direction. We drive on mountain ridges, through stone fields, primeval forests, and enjoy indescribable views.

View from the central road of the island of Cres – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

After we found a place on the camping site „Kovacine“ a little bit more remote from the village Cres, which by the way was possible for city hopping or a trip through the country so far on every camping site for a few nights also without reservation, we notice that it is unexpectedly only a few minutes on foot into the city.

In the evening the restaurants in the harbour fill up and the lights reflect on the water – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We are clearly surprised by the beauty of this place and its small harbour. Past seductive gelatinies, onto the terrace of the pretty blue and white furnished restaurant „Feral“ directly at the harbour basin. How could it be otherwise, we order a fish platter for two and the tastiest homemade bread with the best olive oil we have found so far. It is not for nothing that Cres advertises with big street signs that the island is known for the best olive oil. Our very hospitable waiter tells us that he gets his olive oil delivered by an older gentleman, who produces the oil in his own small production. And where do we get this fine wine from? “The waiter laughs at us and we take 3 litres of the oil with us without thinking twice. With a tasty ice cream on the hand it goes back into the mobile home.

Dinner at the restaurant “Feral” in the port of Cres – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

What is the best way to sum up the island of Cres in a few words? Maybe like this: Cres is a mixture of Sweden, Norway and Greece. The trip to the island capital Cres was absolutely impressive for both of us. Not only the island as such, but also the small fishing village “Cres” is worth a visit. 

The back streets of the city of Cres also offer a great atmosphere – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Day 7: Island Cres -> Island Krk und Town of Malinska -> Camp Kozica near Sibinj Krmpotski
10.07.2018

Michelle is really a little truffle pig for beautiful places. You press a map and a mobile phone with Tripadvisor and Instagram into her hand and she sniffs out the most dreamy places, the most remote bays and the most beautiful beaches. With this gift she is significantly involved in the genesis of this blog entry. Her research leads us today to a remote beach on the island of Krk, to which we land from Cres. When we arrive in Malinska, Daniel can’t really believe that Michelle wants to go swimming here somewhere: everything is full of people, the bays are full of inflatable animals and parasols.

As we walk along the promenade of Malinska in northern direction, we pass some decayed or closed hotel complexes, or better said, what is left of it. The hope that we will find a nice place here disappears.

The “Restaurant Laguna” at the promenade of Malinska has already seen better times – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

But Michelle has done her homework with Instagram and various social networks. After about an hour’s walk in a northerly direction we reach almost deserted bays with crystal clear water.

Small harbour north of Malinska – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

After an extensive bath in the cool Adriatic water we continue our journey and leave the island of Krk over the northernmost bridge.

Cooling down in a deserted bay with crystal clear water near Malinska – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Back on the mainland we drive along the coastal road D8, the so called “Jadranska Magistrala” to the south. This road leads us past small bays and coastal villages. At the beginning of our holiday it was sometimes difficult to find small but cosy campsites in the north. Along the D8 there are more than enough camping and pitches and as many guesthouses. In the restaurants called “Konoba” at the roadside we often eat delicious fish from the grill and fresh seafood at unbeatable prices.

Tonight we shall experience another highlight. Around 22:00 o’clock a motorhome with a Fiat Panda attached by tow bar drives down the central way of the camping site “Kozica”. Almost unbraked it steers a slope floor under us on the parking bay. We are already afraid that it could obstruct our view to the sea, because the driver steers sharply to the left, drives with the alcove into a tree standing in the middle of the place. It crunches and cracks, so that one knows “There is now definitely something broken”. But the driver doesn’t brake. He drives on as if nothing had happened. After the collision he steers the motorhome to the right with the same speed and drives into a second tree. It bangs again, the tree loses some branches. The Dutchman now stops shortly before shock – and accelerates again. Now the front wheels spin. Instead of gently freeing himself from the situation, he puts the pedal to the metal until the motorhome and the team are completely stuck and the radiator fan desperately tries to save what can still be saved. During this action his front wheels have completely incorporated the power cable of a neighbouring tent into the ground. He now tries it backwards, but forgets that the Fiat Panda with tow bar is already behind the motorhome at an angle of 80 degrees. When he puts it back, he overstretches the tow bar to the Fiat and the tow bar is inserted into the rear of his motorhome. The construct might be bent now also. The Dutchman detaches the Fiat from the trailer coupling and drives it backwards behind the motorhome. It crashes again, because also the Fiat met now the tree, which also the camper got to know in the beginning nearer. Without the attachment at the motorhome the Dutchman frees now finally the damaged camping vehicle from the unfortunate situation and places itself apart from us on the lower floor. The Fiat is still standing on the tree, the tow bar is still attached to the front. Somehow he doesn’t seem to be interested at all.

Evening idyll in front of the motorhome – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

A short time later, when the Dutchman puts the power cable into the distributor, we notice what presumably brought the older gentleman to this performance: alcohol. A lot of it. What a spectacular spectacle. When we weren’t afraid of death, we had to go into the car to laugh.

After the motorhome destruction spectacle, we enjoy the view of the Adriatic Sea again with Croatian beer.

Michelle captures the moment with her camera when the campsite looks a bit like the Shire in “The Lord of the Rings”. A dreamy scenery.

View from camping Kozica to the sea – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Day 8: Sibinj Krmpotski -> Krka Nationalpark
11.07.2018

Today we continue our journey on the D8, the Croatian coastal road to the south. At the beginning of the day we stop at every little blue bay to take pictures, a little later we got used to the sights. This is the same as in Norway with the waterfalls: At the first ten we still stop enthusiastically, at some point we only take note of them. The coastal road D8, also called Jadranska Magistrala, offers many of these beautiful views of bays and small coastal villages. We can only recommend to everybody to prefer the coastal road to the domestic roads and highways, even if the driving is certainly more strenuous in some parts and also takes longer. This road alone is a real experience.

In the run-up to our trip many friends and acquaintances advised us not to visit the Krka National Park with its waterfalls. The rush was too big and the paths were overcrowded. It is 17:30 o’clock when we arrive at the national park, in two and a half hours the soccer World Cup semi-final game England against Croatia begins. There can’t be a better time to visit the waterfalls, we think, and descend the almost 1 km long footpath into the national park.

 
At the end of the route through the Krka National Park we have a great panorama – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

The park is deserted and we are almost alone. Both factors lead to unique photos without other visitors. On the 3 km long log trail through the park we hear no voices, only the sound of the waterfalls, the birds and the wind.

Log trails lead visitors through the Krka National Park – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We both have the dream of seeing the jungle sometime. We always think of Costa Rica and the rainforest with its dense green fauna and the sounds of nature. The Krka National Park has shown us that for a real jungle feeling you don’t have to look all the way to South America, we both have the dream to see the jungle sometime. We always think of Costa Rica and the rainforest with its dense green fauna and the sounds of nature. The Krka National Park has shown us that for a real jungle feeling you don’t have to look as far as South America.

One of the numerous waterfalls in a HDR long time exposure – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The way from wooden planks leads us over crystal clear watercourses. We see fish standing under us in the water, which seem to be only one handle away. A snake crosses the path before drifting away in a small stream. We hold our hands in the rivers and our heads under a wonderfully cool waterfall.  The water tastes as pure as tap water.

The big waterfall in Krka National Park – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Tip: Those who visit the Krka National Park should either go to the park late in the evening or very early in the morning and think of hiking shoes. The parking lot is suitable for overnight stays for campers who can stand self-sufficient.

After several hours we leave the park, walk up the steep mountain path to the parking lot, wearing clearly wrong shoes (boat shoes and strappy sandals), and watch in one of the pubs on TV how Croatia beats England with 2:1 in the extension. Bengalos are ignited, the Croats sing and dance until deep into the night on the streets in front of the two cafés. Far away from the hustle and bustle of the World Cup we spend the night “wild” at the back of the National Park parking lot. Powerbanks charge our electrical appliances, the fridge is running on gas tonight.

Day 9: Krka Nationalpark -> Primosten -> Island Hvar, Town of Starigrad
12.07.2018

We start our day with an instant coffee in front of the car. Already at 7:00 o’clock in the morning the parking lot starts to fill up with new visitors. With the mass of tourists arriving, we notice once again how lucky we are to have been able to experience the National Park almost deserted last night. We drive back to the west in order to continue our journey on the coastal road in southern direction.

On our way today lies the small coastal town of Primosten. Similar to Rovinj, the town is situated on a small hill, the church is enthroned on the highest point and can be seen from far away.

Primosten photographed from southern direction – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We park the car and go on foot to explore. After we have climbed the city hill and seen the church, we go through the small, slowly heating alleys back to the foot of the city to drink a glass of white wine in the marina. We watch butter and people and people on boats.

Primosten is also one of these cities, which offers many possibilities to stop in cafés or restaurants, to experience culinary delights or simply to stroll through the small shops and artists’ studios that are located in the alleys.

The town of Primosten reminds us a little of Rovinj – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

A few hours later we leave Primosten and continue our journey.

If you want to experience the traffic and organizational hell on earth, you should definitely visit the ferry port of Split. There is not much more for us to see in this city. To be honest, we didn’t really try that. The city has the charm of Marseille in the furthest corners. Apartment blocks with skyscrapers decorate the cityscape, the back streets are grey and dirty and the beautiful parts of the harbour are overcrowded by people. Let’s get out of here.

For the drivers of big camper vans the harbour of Split is a real adventure: Find your way to one of the tens of millions of ferry terminals here without any sensible signs or parking to buy a ticket. Anyway – where the hell do you get tickets here? Cross the completely overcrowded one-way street at the harbour without being able to turn right. Then turn in pure desperation somewhere in the narrow harbour area and wait several minutes until somebody lets you into the traffic flow again. Drive back through the city centre of Split until you have arrived again at the entrance to the ferry terminals. Repeat the whole thing several times until you then block a pedestrian path and a queue of waiting cars in complete shit-all-attitude in the absoulten stop prohibition in order to buy the damn ferry tickets.

When Michelle buys tickets, Daniel is asked by one of the dockers to continue because he can’t stay there. Daniel doesn’t give a shit. What does he want to do? If Daniel drives on now, Michelle will be lost forever in this minor hole. Anyway, there are some ferry signposts on the road everywhere – if there were a proper signposting here, they would all be unemployed.

A quarter of an hour later, when we finally stand in the right queue to the ferry, an old Mercedes T-model dies at the front. Someone is about to freak out – “Falling Down” with Michael Douglas is a piece of cake. The 14:00 departure is far away as the owner of the scrap mill starts to discuss with the port personnel.

A grandpa starts to “clean” our windscreen with dirty water. The smearing is the only correct expression for his efforts. Daniel shouts “No, thanks” from the car in a friendly manner. The busy windscreen cleaner continues. Daniel drives down the window further and yells at him. Now he continues swearing. His luck.

At some point we are finally on board a “Jadrolijnska” ferry to the island of Hvar. The ship is overcrowded, the coffee is reasonably clear, the staff is unfriendly. No wonder, they probably all live in this ugly city “Split”. We illegally decide to spend the passage in the round corner of the motorhome. We edit pictures and write this part of the travel report.

An hour and a half later we land on the island of Hvar. Daniel has calmed down again, the relaxing part of the holiday can go on. No island would be better suited for this than Hvar, because according to the omniscient Internet, Hvar is one of the least developed Croatian islands for tourism. Quite our thing. At the arrival, we don’t really know where we want to go, only we know that we want to leave the island in the next days at the south-eastern tip towards Dubrovnik.

Spontaneously we follow the signs to a local winegrower to buy some wine for the coming evenings. In the winery of the brothers Plančic in Vrbanjdegustieren we taste different white wines in the bottling hall and have a short talk with the daughter of one of the brothers. She says the work and the tradition associated with it are fun, too, and we can well imagine that when small disputes come much closer to the substance at work in a family business than in a normal office job. The daughter explains that tourist groups often book a wine tasting, but also those are welcome who, like us, stop by spontaneously and in pairs. We leave the winery later with some boxes of “Plančić Bogdanuša”, a special grape variety that only exists on Hvar. A great experience.

The winery Plančic on Hvar – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

While Daniel stows the wine crates in the garage, Michelle searches the Internet for the next concrete destination and finds what she is looking for: We drive a few kilometres back to the tranquil harbour town of Starigrad. Arrived there we try to find a parking lot suitable for a 6.70m long motorhome. Of course in vain. On the north side of the city we finally get stuck in a much too narrow turning hammer between two fishing boats pulled ashore there. A dead end sign would have been worth its weight in gold. After about 10 minutes of moving back and forth we got out of this awkward situation under the eyes of the local fishermen. With beads of sweat on our forehead we imagine how the drunken Dutchman would have mastered this situation: probably faster, but also with material damage and fatalities.

Also the southern part of the city with its narrow streets is not necessarily motorhome friendly. Shortly before Daniel wanted to throw in the towel to drive to another city, a small brown sign appears with the inscription „Autocamp Jurjevac“. By the, how should it be in this city also differently, again extremely narrow entrance we arrive at an almost natural camping site under high, shade donating pine trees. Parked, power cable laid and prepared for the exploration of the cute coastal village.

A narrow path at the campsite brings us directly to the southwestern harbour wall after a three-minute walk. Through the narrow lane down to the promenade we see the stern of the yacht “Corinthian” from George Town on the Cayman Islands between plants and walls. The crew of the ship is stowing a jet ski in the stern garage of the ship.
“Maybe we should buy a boat”.

 
Sunset in the harbour of Starigrad – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We explore the romantically lit, medieval streets of the city. There are so many beautiful places, cafes and restaurants to visit, but you simply don’t have the time. Finally we eat directly at the promenade at „Kod Barba Luke“. Excellent fish, great wine, first class service. Be sure to try the octopus salad! While we enjoy our dinner, we watch the promenaders passing by. The sun sets slowly, the restaurant is bathed in orange light, candles and fairy lights will shine a little later.

Day 10: Island Hvar, Town of Starigrad
13.07.2018

We are woken up around 08:00 in the morning by the chirping of the cicadas.

Starigrad with its small alleys, hidden places and restaurants pleased us so much the evening before that we decide to spend another day here while having our morning coffee under pine trees. We sit until noon in the shade of our awning, take turns writing our blog post, drink coffee and develop the photos of the past days. Camping can be so easy and luxurious at the same time. At least until you have to empty the shit tank.

The motorhome at camping Jurjevac in Starigrad – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

In the early afternoon we walk along the promenade, drink a gin and tonic in one of the cafés at the front row of the harbour and eat an ice cream in the ice cream café „Special“. We didn’t ask for it, but the ice cream definitely tastes handmade, especially the melon and pistachio. Rarely have we eaten such a good ice cream. Happily we return to the motorhome. Despite the shady pine trees of the camping site, the inside of the motorhome feels like an oven, but the air conditioning provides relief within a few minutes.

To explore also on the day beautifully: The alleys of Starigrad – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Daniel tries to upload pictures via the WLAN of the campsite. In vain. The internet access on the previous sites or also in cafés or national parks was rather a waste of time. With up- and download rates of a few kilobits per second for almost everything unusable. The cicadas still give their concert, from time to time we still notice it, but mostly our brain fades out the noises. Only when you concentrate on the little tormentors you notice how loud the animals actually are.

At dusk we go into town again. We want to eat at a special place that we already noticed yesterday, namely in the restaurant „La Gitana“. Under blossoming trees and chains of lights we eat one of the best meals of our holiday by candlelight and lantern light.

The restaurant La Gitana in the alleys of Starigrad – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

There are tuna carpaccio, olives from the island, scampis in buzzara sauce and grilled salmon. If you visit this restaurant and there is the homemade sangria, make sure you get it. Also the cocktails are not from bad parents, especially a gin tonic with whole star anise and lavender leaves is very appealing to us.

Day 11: Island Hvar, Town of Starigrad -> Dubrovnik
14.07.2018

From Starigrad we drive to the eastern end of the island of Hvar. The roads on this route are simply adventurous: Two cars can pass each other in some places only with the greatest care, to the left and right of the paved road it goes down directly several meters deep and crash barriers exist only a few. Rarely has Daniel experienced such roads. Mountain passes in Norway, English city centres or single track roads with oncoming traffic in the Highlands. Nothing against these 40 kilometres on the main road of the island of Hvar. On half of the way an Audi A6 with its exterior mirror at the door touches us as we stand in front of a bend waiting for oncoming traffic. We can polish away the scratch, hopefully it has completely dismantled its mirror including expensive electronics. Asshole.

Sweaty and relieved when we arrive at “Sućuraj”, we get stuck in a traffic jam for about 3 hours at the entrance to the village. The ferry from the island Hvar to “Drvenik” seems to expect many passengers today.

Back on the mainland we follow the Jadranska Magistrala (D8) further south where we cross a stretch of land that stands out like a green oasis from the rocky landscape. On the roadsides of this region farmers offer their produce for sale and at one point of our route we have a fantastic panorama over the fields and irrigation ditches.

Agricultural region between the mountain ranges – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Finally we cross the border to Bosnia near Neum. This detour is necessary to reach the Croatian exclave Dubrovnik. The short Bosnian coastal section is remarkably different from the Croatian cities on the coastal road. It seems as if not a bit of tradition and original culture has been preserved here, as if everything had been sacrificed for tourism. According to our experience of Croatia so far, this is a strange experience. We are glad when we arrive back in Croatia half an hour later.

Today we drove a lot and both of us were very tired when we parked our car at the camping Solitudo in Dubrovnik around 19:00 o’clock. We agree: Tonight we do nothing more, we spend the evening with a white wine at the table in front of the car and eat stylish our canned ravioli. Nice, this simple life.

Day 12: Dubrovnik
15.07.2018

Around 11:00 a.m. we leave the campsite with an overpass in the direction of the old town of Dubrovnik. The Uber app works well here, even offers for boat transfers can be found in Croatia. The trip costs us 49 Kuna, equivalent to 6,50€.

Arrived in the old town, we explore the innumerable small lanes. And when we say innumerable here, then we mean innumerable. Dubrovnik’s old town literally kills one with its winding alleys, small stairs and the resulting confusion. Because the old town is huge, not to compare with the small, cute cities Rovinj or Primosten. In addition, the large streams of visitors leave their mark: Garbage, graffiti and empty bottles of liquor decorate the roadsides.

Oysters from Ston, anchovies and local wines in a restaurant in Dubronik’s alleys – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

The city has a lot to offer in culinary terms: In the centre of the old town there are many restaurants and bars, but we recommend the smaller restaurants away from the big, central squares. Here you will find fresh oysters from Ston, freshly grilled fish and great wines. Also recommended: At the northern city wall there is a bar, which can only be reached by walking through it. From here you have a wonderful view of the bays and the ships anchoring there.

Later, we absolutely want to climb the famous city wall, but when we found the ascent to this in the maze of the overstrained city, the entrance is already closed.

The photos of Dubrovnik, which we saw before our trip, were one of the main reasons for us to go to Croatia and start the long journey to the south of the country, to the exclave Dubrovnik. Now we want to see these romantic places and views of this city with our own eyes. But the reality is different. One wants to see and experience so much, but then one finds oneself searching and lost in the partly dirty alleys.

Port in the Old Town of Dubrovnik – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

At the end of the day we manage one of these great shots of Dubrovnik, which we know from various travel guides. With enough distance to the motive the photo seems almost romantic.

In retrospect we are annoyed to have started the journey to Dubrovnik, which is the farthest away. Almost all bigger cities were a disappointment: Pula, Split, Zadar and last but not least Dubrovnik. To be honest, if you are looking for beautiful old towns and tranquil places, you should save yourself the cities and spend your holidays in Istria and near the northern Adriatic and the islands. Rovinj, Primosten, Cres or Starigrad on Hvar have much more charm and character than the strongholds of mass tourism.

Day 13: Dubrovnik -> Mostar -> Krka Nationalpark
16.07.2018

After the departure from Dubrovnik around 09:00 o’clock in the morning we drive north again. We want to make a detour in the direction of Bosnia Herzegovina, or more precisely in the city of Mostar with its famous bridge.

Arrived at the border crossing, the Bosnian border guard asks us for our green insurance card. Perfectly prepared, Daniel proudly hands him the card, and the border guard informs us that the card has expired. We look puzzled at the expiry date of the map. Really. We didn’t know at all that the map could expire and now we already reckon that we have to turn around without being able to look at Mostar. Thanks to Daniel’s powers of persuasion and the friendliness of the border post, we can still enter the country about a quarter of an hour later, but should drive carefully.

Tipp: If you want to travel to Bosnia Herzegovina by car, you need a “green insurance card” for your vehicle. This can be obtained from your own car insurance. Also make sure that your insurance card is still valid.

Two hours later we arrive in Mostar. What a juggernaut. The city consists of overcrowded parking lots, garbage and ruins but also of the famous bridge.

On the facades of some older houses we can still see bullet holes and craters of explosions from the Bosnian war.

It is impossible to park the motorhome here. Altogether we drive three times through the narrow and parked city centre, but there are no parking places for big cars or buses here. The signposts of the private parking lots signal with hand signals that we are too big and should drive on. To be honest: Neither the city, nor the people here create a good feeling in us, we would park our car here somewhere. And apart from the bridge, there is really nothing nice to see here. In pure desperation we stop after the third unsuccessful attempt on the bridge south of the old town bridge and Michelle takes a picture of the famous building out of the motorhome. Mission accomplished and now nothing but away from this city and this country. Of course nice and careful.

The bridge of Mostar – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

But the trip to Bosnia had a good thing: Shortly before we leave Bosnia, we stop at the restaurant „Zagreb“ in Međugorje on the way back. Here we eat the best grill plate of all times for two persons. That alone makes a detour across the border worthwhile.

An excellent grill plate for two persons in the restaurant “Zagreb” – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

With a full stomach we drive further north until we finally spend the evening again in the public parking lot of the Krka National Park near Sibenik. We witness a violent thunderstorm with strong winds, hail, high rainfall and barely get a wink of sleep during the night.

Day 14: Krka Nationalpark -> Nationalpark Plitvicer Lakes
17.07.2018

This day will be a true adventure. It all started with our navigation device that guided us 15km into a narrow forest path in the middle of nowhere to reach the National Park of Plitvice Lakes. Of course also completely from the wrong side of the park. At some point we finally arrive at the real parking lot of the national park: Our camper van stands on the parking lot of the “Entrance 2”. Here there is an extra area for camper vans and we hope to stay here overnight.

Shortly before 15:00 o’clock we buy for 250 Kuna (approx. 34 €) per person our tickets for the national park.
After the purchase of the tickets we can choose between 6 routes, which lead the visitors with different degrees of difficulty through the national park. Route A takes about 2 hours, Route K about 8 hours. Overzealously we decide for Route K, finally we have paid the entrance fee and now we want to see everything. Already at this point we should have noticed that we would not be at the camper again until 23:00 o’clock at 8 hours duration. Unfortunately this did not occur to us at this point.

So we pack our photo bag and the backpack with enough drinking water and start our hike. We agree that we actually do not want to use any of the offered promotions like boats or the panorama train in the national park, but want to explore everything on foot. And this works splendidly at first. We walk from entrance 2 at the lakeside towards the north to the big waterfall. Already shortly after the beginning of our hiking tour we are deeply impressed by the clear, blue water of the Plitvice lakes. We see shoals of fish so close to the shore that they would be tangible.

Fish in the crystal clear waters of the Plitvice Lakes – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

The route K now leads us to really every lookout point on our shore, which also means that we climb up and down many cursed hills.

Around 17:30 we reached the big waterfall of the Plitvice Lakes. From here, we start again on the western shore of the lakes in direction to the south. At some point around 18:00 o’clock we notice that the running off of the western shore really takes a very long time. The many small bays that go deep into the interior of the country and then return to the centre of the lakes extend the pure distance tremendously. Clouds come up, in the distance we hear thunderstorms and we realize that we won’t be able to complete Route K completely. The gust roller of the approaching thunderstorm catches us with strong gusts of wind and the typical cold air. We change our plan and want to cross with a short ferry trip from the west bank (P2) to the east bank (P1) to return to the starting point of our hike. We won’t see the southern part of Route K any more, but it’s better to sit somewhere in the forest soaking wet than in a heavy thunderstorm. We hope that the planned ferry will leave at this time of day. If not, there is nothing else to do but to walk the southern part of Route K, or to go back all the way we came.

One of the largest waterfalls in the Plitvice Lakes National Park – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

The time is pressing: It is already 19:00 o’clock and we think that the last ferry leaves at 19:30. In the distance we recognize the small ferry boat. Meanwhile the wind has become so strong that it blows the forest floor into our face as we run towards the ferry. In one of the bays another obstacle is waiting for us: Extreme mud. In this bay a small river flows, which has completely transformed the forest ground on an area of approx. 400m² into a swamp.

Daniel tries to cross the place nevertheless, however, after 3 steps he slumps down to the knee. No getting through at this point. Do we have to walk all the way back now? Somewhat offside lies a tree trunk in the mud soil, Michelle takes care of this jungle test and balances over the dead tree and the swampy forest soil. Daniel follows her, slips down and now also stands with his other leg up to his knee in the mud. The shoes are finally lost.

Tipp: Be sure to pack enough drinking water for extensive hikes in the national parks. Choose suitable footwear and take spare clothes with you, even if it suddenly gets colder or starts raining. You never know.

In parts of the national park, log paths lead visitors across the water – Nikon D500, Walimex Pro 8 mm f1:3,5

Around 20:00 o’clock we finally arrive at the ferry and learn that it runs until 21:30 o’clock. Luckily, we would not have had to hurry so much. Nevertheless, we are glad to have finally escaped the thunderstorm.

Arrived at the camper Daniel disposes of his not recognizable boat shoes. It is already late. We drink another glass of wine in front of the car as the last parked vehicle leaves the national park parking lot through the barrier. Now we are all alone here, in the middle of the forest on a huge area. We go to sleep, but fear the whole night over that it knocks immediately and now someone asks us to leave the parking lot. But we are lucky, nobody seems to disturb our overnight stay. For the overnight stay we pay the next morning a parking fee of 100 Kuna, about 14€ – that’s okay.

Day 15: Nationalpark Plitvicer Lakes -> Prichsenstadt
18.07.2018

There’s not much more to say here. Highway, highway and again highway, until we arrive in the evening around 19:00 o’clock, after 12 hours drive, again in Prichsenstadt. Here we already spent the first evening of our trip.

Whereby, there is still one thing to note in this cute little town: In the evening we have dinner in the „Gasthof zum Storch“. Who is here in the proximity, should absolutely stop and take a seat in the cosy beer garden behind the house. We toast with the smoky beer of a small brewery from Würgau, eat fresh leaf salad and Franconian Sauerbraten and let all the beautiful moments of our vacation once again pass in review.

What photographic equipment did we have with us?

Below you will find affiliate links to the equipment we use:

• DSLR-Kamera Nikon D500
• Objektiv Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Objektiv Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Objektiv Walimex Pro 8mm f1:3,5 Fish-Eye
• Reisestativ Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g inkl. Kopf)
• Wasserdichter Fotorucksack von Beschoi
• iPhone 8 Plus
• Wasserdichte Handyhülle für Sicherung des iPhones beim Wassersport

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Travelling the Croatian Adriatic coast by motorhome erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

During the landing approach to Porto, the northern Portuguese city shows its best side for the first time. We approach the airport OPO from the south and see the old town of Porto and the bridges over the river Douro in all their colourful splendour below us.

View of Porto’s old town from the Gaia side – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

After landing we take the metro to our apartment “Boavista Palace” in the district Boavista (Rua Dr Emilio Peres, 74, 4050-007 Porto, Portugal).
I used the check-in in the apartment directly to get his personal tips for the surrounding gastronomy from the receptionist. A short time later we set off for the historic city centre of Porto.

At this point, it should be said right away that the local public transport from metro and buses is not exactly cheap. Not even if you buy tickets for several days. Moreover, the vending machines and the zone validity of the tickets are anything but self-explanatory. Therefore, the use of Uber for longer trips is much more practical, especially as in the city area of Porto, one also makes good progress on foot or by taxi boat. Those who nevertheless absolutely want to buy tickets for metro and buses should rather do this at a counter with advice due to the incomprehensible vending machines.

Historic house fronts in Porto’s Old Town – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

City park and beach promenade

Those who are well on foot can first walk from the city centre through the “Parque da cidade”, the city park, and then walk along the beach in the direction of the harbour district. The way from the city park along the coast leads past small bars and beach cafes, rugged rocky coast and old forts.

View from the “Praia Internacional” to the Atlantic Ocean – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We take a seat in a small café on the beach “Praia Internacional”. I watch the hustle and bustle on the beach promenade and drink a sip of the Portuguese beer “Super Bock”, while others do sports near the beach. Street musicians play songs, artists of life and those who want to become artists pass by, cyclists avoid a free running dog. I look at the Atlantic Ocean, where I swam 20 minutes ago – a cold affair in May.

After the beer we continue north along the beach promenade until we finally arrive in Matosinhos for lunch.

Matosinhos

Matosinhos is the port district of Porto. Restaurants and fish shops line the front streets like a string of pearls. The smell of freshly grilled fish over charcoal fire is in the air, the sun pierces.

Guests sit in a fish restaurant in Matosinhos, next to it the fresh fish is prepared on the charcoal grill. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

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Typical for Porto, the colourful house fronts with their tile and mosaic decorations await us in the Matosinhos quarter. Between the restaurants and shops there are abandoned or almost dilapidated houses without any glamour. A contrast that personally fascinates me again and again.

Almost all restaurants offer seating inside but also in a kind of “glass box” on the street. We are sitting in this conservatory-like construction when the waiter presents us with a plate of fish of different sizes. We select the middle fish, toast with our wine and the selected fish is grilled outside for us. The preparation is almost sparse – salt, olive oil, some steamed vegetables in addition. An excellent, simple meal.

The buildings in the back streets of Matosinhos have already seen better times – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Who loves not only fish, but also other seafood, will get his money’s worth in the “Restaurant Teresa” and in the “Rei Da Sardinha Assada“. Both restaurants offer fresh fish, lobsters, mussels, octopus and other specialities.

Clams with parsley and lemon in the “Restaurant Teresa” in Matosinhos – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

The “Rei Da Sardinha Assada” was recommended to us by one of our overriders when we asked him where he and his family would like to eat on a free day. The visitor can expect a wide choice of food served in a rather simple environment. The restaurant is a bit more hidden and not in the front row. A real insider tip.

 Grilled calamari with onions in the “Rei Da Sardinha Assada” – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Gaia-Side

From the Porto side of the Douro River you can reach the southern side of Gaia via one of the many river bridges or for around €3 per person with a taxi boat every 10 minutes.
In addition to the great view of Porto, visitors can expect good restaurants, a cable car to the nunnery, port wine cellars and market halls.

The sun goes down over the sea, in the foreground one of the Douro bridges of Porto – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

If you want to change from the Porto page to the Gaia page, the taxi boat is recommended. For 3€ it takes the passengers from one side of the city to the other. No walk over the bridges or a taxi is faster.

Those who think of Porto, of course, also think of Port wine and the corresponding Port wine cellars. These are all on the Gaia side of the Douro river. Well-known manufacturers like Sandemann, Offley, Burmester and others invite the visitors here to guided tours and tastings in their own cellars.

Numerous port wine brands have opened their cellars to visitors – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

If the matter is not too dizzying for you, you can take the cable car from the river bank of the Gaia side up to the nunnery “Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar”. The backyards and streets of the Gaia side are decorated with numerous street art installations. If you walk carefully through the alleys, you can find some small works of art.

On the Gaia side of the Douro River you will find numerous street art installations – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The next evening we use the view from the Gaia side of Porto for an extensive photo tour at nightfall.

Photo tour to the blue hour

Those who try the Google image search for impressions of Porto will primarily find pictures of the old town with its colorful house fronts and lights. Most of the photos were taken from the Gaia side of the river Duoro.

Reason enough for me to wait here for the blue hour.

View of Porto and the bridge “Ponte Luíz I” at the beginning of the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The illuminated old town of Porto and the river bridges offer excellent motifs for long-term exposures and HDR shots. But not only photo fanatics get their money’s worth here: The sight offers all visitors an extraordinarily romantic ambience.

Armed with tripod and camera, we set out to explore potential motifs and then waited for the lights on bridges and buildings to turn on. About half an hour after the meteorological start of the blue hour the time had come: Bridges and the city shone in the golden yellow, warm artificial light.

View of the nunnery and the bridge “Ponte Luíz I” at night – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Delights and time-out

Apart from the places mentioned in the text so far, there are of course further recommendations for all those who would like to explore the city from its culinary side.

Markethall “Mercado Bom Sucesso”

A visit to the market hall “Mercado Bom Sucesso” is highly recommended. You can try various Portuguese specialities at countless stands. Nowhere else can you gather so many different culinary impressions in such a short time as here. We can expect seafood, suckling pig, ham, sausage and cheese specialities, baked goods and wine and port wine merchants. It is best to plan at least two hours and enjoy the Portuguese cuisine.

The market stalls in the “Mercado Bom Sucesso” invite you to explore Portuguese cuisine – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art 

Café Santiago

One of the Uber drivers recommended us to try the Portuguese speciality “Francesinha”: A huge baked toast sandwich, served with a spicy sauce and fries. For this speciality we should go to the “Café Santiago” in the upper part of the city.

Three kinds of meat and sausage between toast slices and a fried egg gratinated with hearty cheese – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Let’s go. The restaurant was well visited, so well that larger groups waited on the street for a free table. Since there were only two of us, we were luckily able to sit right at the counter and have a look at the open part of the kitchen.

Here the “Francesinhas” are toasted in chord, baked and then served on the plates for the guests. The waiters swarm out and distribute the fresh sandwiches to the guests of the “Cafés Stantiago”.

The Francesinhas are fried behind the counter, baked and then served to the hungry guests – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

I bite into my sandwich topped with three kinds of meat and sausage, baked with cheese and a fried egg. The sandwich is surrounded by chips and a lightly edible sauce that reminds me a little of fish & chips with vinegar and salt. A real taste firework with heart attack potential. After that you just want to go to bed, but it was definitely worth it.

What photographic equipment did I bring with me?

Below you will find affiliate links to the equipment I use:

• DSLR-Camera Nikon D500
• Lens Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Lens Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Travel Tripod Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g incl. head)
• iPhone 8 Plus
• Travelite Vector Beautycase for cameratransport in handbaggage

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag 7 days in Porto – Travel tips and photoblog erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.