The complete manual as video

Reading’s not your style? Here you see all settings with explanation in the video.

Setting the Camera to M Mode and video mode

This M mode gives us full control over both exposure time and aperture. At the top right of the display you will find a toggle switch with a photo and a video symbol. Toggles this switch so that the video mode is active.

Choosing the right shutter speed

When creating videos, the shutter speed must always be set in proportion to the video material being made and its frame rate.
As exposure time I use 1/60, because I usually shoot videos later with 30 frames per second (30p), more about that later.
If you use other frame rates, like 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p or 24p, you have to adjust the shutter speed to the next suitable value. Here again the overview:

Attention: Please also note the section “Flicker reduction” in this context.

Choosing the right aperture

Which aperture you choose is up to you, depending on how you want to present your motif. If you choose a lower aperture, the background of your motif will blur due to the shallow depth of field, making your motif more prominent.

With a higher aperture, the background of your motif is sharper due to the high depth of field and the entire image is characterized by a high depth of detail due to continuous sharpness.
Note that if you choose a higher aperture, the image itself becomes darker, and if you choose a lower aperture, the image becomes brighter.

The only important thing at this point is that we have control over the aperture, because we use the M mode of our camera to do this. If we were to let the camera control the aperture in A mode, the camera would change the aperture depending on the light situation while shooting and we would take a shot with varying depth of field and brightness all the time. Not only does this look unprofessional, it’s also really annoying for the viewer.

Movie Shooting Menu Settings

For all the following settings, we switch to the movie recording menu. The settings stored there only take effect when we operate the camera in movie mode. I don’t proceed here in the order of the menu entries, as for example some settings are already adjusted automatically by the selection of the resolution and frame rate and we don’t have to deal with them anymore.

Choosing the correct frame size/frame rate

I make my own video recordings in 4k with 30 frames per second.
At 30 frames per second, movements in the picture look most natural and smooth, and 60p shots of action cams can be integrated very easily, for example to create slow-motion functions.

Therefore, I first select the setting “3840 x 2160; 30p” in the film recording menu under “Frame size/frame rate”.
With these settings, the “Choose image area” is changed to “FX” by default, the movie quality is thus automatically set to “High” and so we don’t need to deal with these menu items anymore.

Note: To be honest, nobody buys a Nikon Z6 or Z6 II to make bad videos, I myself never understood why there is the possibility to set the movie quality to “Low” at all.

Movie file type

I use MOV as I think it has the best quality. Further on it is faster when post-editing footage on Mac.

ISO sensitivity settings

Now you can decide how you want to proceed and whether you want to make the ISO settings manually or automatically. In the menu entry “IOS Sensitivity Settings” you can select if the automatic should be used in the field “Auto ISO control (Mode M)”.

• If you are recording a video in an environment where the lighting conditions in the subject will not change, you can manually adjust the ISO settings and then leave them at the correct value.
• If you have to assume that lighting conditions will change during shooting, for example because a person moves in the picture and their illumination varies, use the ISO automatic.
• If you are simply lazy, regardless of the ambient light conditions, you also use the ISO automatic. Seriously, ISO auto works reliably and doesn’t cause any image distortion if the ISO number changes during shooting. Actually, you can use the ISO automatic with a clear conscience.

There is one thing that needs to be considered with regard to the ISO automatic. Set the “Maximum sensitivity” value to “10,000”. Above this value, the image quality can suffer from noise and color noise, so we only allow the ISO automatic to operate up to this value.

White balance

Almost the same applies here as with the ISO automatic.
Actually, the automatic white balance is sufficiently reliable. I use it in 90% of all shots.

Only when using artificial light sources with different light colors or temperatures do I work manually here, because otherwise the camera tends to change the white balance during a shot. This does not look nice.

The same applies when the sky often changes the light conditions due to fast passing clouds.

Picture Control

Here I select the setting “FL Flat”.
This preserves details over a wide range of tonal values, which maximizes the optimization potential in later post-processing, i.e. you can get the most out of this profile afterwards.

Active D-Lighting

Off. I don’t want the camera to manipulate the image independently.

High ISO NR

Here we leave the default value “Normal” set.

Vignette, diffraction and distortion control

Enable all of them, apply “Normal” mode when possible.

Flicker reduction

The flicker reduction is intended to avoid flickering in the image, which can be caused by artificial lighting. Depending on the frequency at which the local power grid operates (50Hz in Germany), some light sources tend to emitt the normal fluctuations in the power grid, so that you will notice them when recording video at that light.

The automatic flicker reduction delivers good results. Sometimes, however, it also fails, this can happen in very bright environments, for example.
To counteract this, you can take the following measures:

• Manual setting of the flicker reduction to 50Hz or 60Hz, depending on which setting gives the best result.
• If the flicker reduction is not enough, you may need to adjust the shutter speed, even if this would violate the above recommended shutter speeds.
  o1/125s, 1/60s or 1/30s at 60Hz power grid
  o 1/100s, 1/50s or 1/25s at 50Hz power grid

Metering

I use Matrix metering in 99% of shootings. There are some rare cases where I use single point metering, for example when doing shots of people or objects against very bright or dark backgrounds.

Focus Mode

These settings depend on what you are shooting. For interviews and tutorials I mostly use AF-C or AF-F for making the camera follow my face when I move. In recording landscapes without any moving objects, an initial AF-S is suitable. Go ahead, try out what fits your needs best.

AF-area Mode

Same here, it depends on what you are shooting. Go ahead, try out what fits your needs best.

Electronic VR

Enable it when shooting free hand, turn it off when shooting from tripod.

Microphone sensitivity

When I use the built-in microphone of the Z6 or Z6 II, I use the automatic level.
If I use an external microphone such as my Zoom H2n, I manually level the microphone input.
You can find more details about external microphones in this blog post “Zoom H2n as an external microphone on the DSLR”.

Attenuator

Off.

Frequency response

Here you can choose between “Wide” and “Voice”. I personally don’t like the sound of the “Voice” setting in speech at all and therefore use the much more natural sounding “Wide” frequency response, no matter if I record with the built-in microphone of the Z6 or Z6 II or my Zoom H2n as an external microphone. You can find more details about external microphones in this blog post “Zoom H2n as an external microphone on the DSLR”.

Wind noise reduction

The wind noise reduction settings only work when we use the Z6’s and Z6 II’s built-in microphone.

• If I record in locked, windless rooms, I switch off wind noise reduction as a potential source of error.
• If I record outside with the built-in microphone, I activate wind noise reduction.

Which memory card is suitable for 4k video?

So that your camera can pack even high data rates quickly on the memory card, you should rely on a correspondingly fast CFExpresscard ( supported by Z6 and Z6 II) or High Speed SD card (supported only by Z6 II).
I myself use the following cards:

SanDisk Extreme PRO 128 GB SDXC-Speicherkarte bis zu 300 MB/Sek, UHS-II, Class 10, U3*

• Superschnelle SDHC- und SDXC UHS-II-Speicherkarten mit Aufnahmegeschwindigkeiten von bis zu 260 MB/Sek.
• Maximieren Sie die Effizienz mit Übertragungsgeschwindigkeiten von bis zu 300 MB/Sek.

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SanDisk Extreme Pro CFexpress-Speicherkarte Typ B 128 GB (1.700 MB/s Lesen, 1.200 MB/s Schreiben, RescuePRO Deluxe, ruckelfreie...*

• Lesegeschwindigkeiten bis 1.700 MB/s und Schreibgeschwindigkeiten bis 1.200 MB/s ermöglichen mit der CFexpress Speicherkarte...
• Herausragende 4K-Videoleistung. Der CFexpress Formfaktor ermöglicht die Aufzeichnung von RAW-Videodaten in 4K mit zuverlässiger...

89,99 EUR

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Record video – what do I have to do?

Now it’s getting easy. Now switch on Live-View and you will see the camera’s field of view in 4K mode on the display. By pressing the red “Record” button on the left under the release button, you start and stop the recording.

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Nikon Z6 and Z6 II in camera 4K Video Settings – Best practise explained step by step erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

No compromise on autofocus speed or precision

First things first: All Sigma lenses tested by me work reliably on the Nikon Z6 II when using the FTZ adapter. There are no signs of slowing down the autofocus, blur or lack of precision. Phew, that was my biggest fear.

I tested the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary, Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 Art and the Sigma 105mm Macro (Amazon Affiliate Links). Although it makes absolutely no sense, I also tested the DX lens Sigma 18-35mm 1.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link). Conclusion: All four Sigma lenses are technically recognized, work as usual and I can’t see any deterioration in autofocus behavior.

Actually everything I wanted, because exactly this fear kept me for a long time for example from buying the first Z6.

Terror with the adapter plate

But there is one disadvantage, even if not of a technical nature and certainly not decisive for every photographer. With a FTZ-Adapter in front of the camera I can’t use a tripod- or carrying system adapter plate directly on the camera anymore. Strictly speaking, I could, but this is of little use to me, because the FTZ-Adapter with its overlapping underside prevents it from being inserted into the tripod head or carrying system.

But this is intentional and by-design by Nikon to avoid mechanical overload of the Z-bayonet on the camera. If you would mount the adapter plate directly on the camera, too much weight would be on the FTZ-adapter and the bayonet connections could twist.

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As a workaround I can attach the adapter plate directly to the FTZ adapter. So I can get the camera back on the tripod and also on my Peak Design Capture Clip carrying system (Amazon Affiliate Link). BUT: If the adapter plate is installed on the FTZ-adapter, it is at the same time quite close to the lens body. Inserting it into a carrying system or tripod is much more tricky than with a more free-standing adapter plate on the bottom of the camera. I will have to get used to it – or buy Z-lenses to get rid of the FTZ-Adapter. One costs nerves, the other a lot of money. Unplanned invest is on the horizon.

Hopefully Sigma will soon build Z-Mount lenses, after all I have become such a fan of Sigma lenses.

Der Beitrag Field report: Sigma lenses on FTZ adapter on Nikon Z6 II – No problems. erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Settings for HDR recordings by free hand and from the tripod saved to usersetting bank „U1“

In order to be able to record HDR recordings free hand and from tripod, we use the following settings on the User Setting bank „U1“. For freehand shooting we use the CH mode for fast continuous shooting, for touch-free and therefore shake-free shooting from a tripod we use the self-timer later. However, the following settings apply to both scenarios. With SLR cameras, there were dedicated settings for freehand and tripod, since with DSLRs we also used mechanisms such as mirror lock-up to reduce camera shake. With the mirrorless cameras of the Nikon Z-series, this is not necessary.

With the following settings, we will later take 5 images which will be combined to one HDR image.

If you prefer to create 7 images for a larger bandwidth instead of 5 images, you can put the alternative settings with 7 single images (marked blue) on the user setting bank U2. However, I recommend to take 7 single images only with a tripod.

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General Camera settings

1. Selecting the correct operating mode:
   Turn the program selector wheel to „A”.
2. Adjust the correct aperture:
   At this point I set aperture to “8” for HDR shots and change it according to the subject and environment.
3. Setting a suitable ISO number:
   I’ll start here at ISO 200.

Settings in the “Photo Shooting Menu”

1. Optional: change folder names to HDRZ6 (this gives us our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Optional: change file name to HDR (so we can easily distinguish HDR photos from “normal” photos by the file name)
3. Choose image area: FX
4. Image size: JPEG L and RAW L
5. NEF (RAW) recording: Lossless Compression and 14-bit
6. ISO sensitivity settings: ISO auto OFF, start at 100
7. White balance: cloudy sky, so that always the same white balance is used during the bracketing row, the correct correction we carry out later at the PC.
8. Manage Picture Control: NL (Neutral)
9. Active D-Lighting: OFF
10. Long exposure NR: OFF
11. Vignette Control: OFF
12. Diffraction compensation: OFF
13. Auto distortion control: OFF
14. Flicker reduction: OFF
15. Metering: Matrix
16. Skip flash control, flash mode and flash compensation, because we don’t use flash anyway
17. Auto Bracketing set: AE (without flash)
    Number of exposures 5F / alternatively 7F
    Step size 1.0
18. Multiple exposure: OFF
19. HDR (high dynamic range): OFF
    Note: We want to create an HDR ourselves from the individual shots later, if we used this option, the camera would assemble an HDR itself, without us having any influence on the final result. This function is only used by people who normally take photos with their smartphone.
20. Interval timer shooting: OFF
21. Time-lapse movie: OFF
22. Focus shift shooting: OFF
23. Silent photography: OFF

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Settings in “Custom configuration Menu”

We leave all settings on the default values except for the following settings mentioned here:

1. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – self-timer delay: 2
2. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – number of shots: 5 / alternatively 7 shots
3. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – interval between shots: 0.5 seconds
4. Menu area E “Bracketing & Flash” – E7 Bracketing order: N (MTR > under > over)

Save settings permanently to Usersetting bank „U1“

In order to really save the settings we have made so far, we go back to the “SYSTEM” menu and select the memory bank „U1“ under the “Save User Settings” system menu item and confirm twice with “OK”.
If we now switch to another operating mode such as “A”, “M” or “S” or switch off the camera and then switch back to the „U1“ program, all our previously set data will be available again. Depending on the available light, we may have to adjust the exposure series properties to the lighting conditions.

Taking photos

We have now saved all settings and can make our recordings when we access the usersetting „U1“.
First we switch off the autofocus and focus manually, so that the focus does not change unintentionally during the exposure series.

When shooting with a tripod

First, turn off the image stabilizer if present on the lens. Switch to the self-timer. Now 5 shots (or alternatively 7 shots) are taken automatically within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

When shooting free hand (without a tripod)

First, turn on the image stabilizer, if present on the lens. Switch to high speed mode CH. Now, while holding the shutter-release button down, 5 shots are taken in a row within the configured exposure bracket. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

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How to develop the HDR photo / Which Software to use

As a software for HDR merging I use Aurora HDR.
You can get yourself a free trial by clicking this link: https://skylum.evyy.net/pixelfriedhofaurorahdr

See all steps of the configuration in my video

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Camera-Carrying-System Peak Design Capture Clip v3: https://geni.us/KFxtYmM (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 24-70mm 2.8: https://geni.us/pKt2sbG (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro: https://geni.us/ADMHVq6 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 150-600mm: https://geni.us/xJ3A3 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 18-35mm 1.8: https://geni.us/rnztt4N (Amazon Affiliate Link)

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag HDR Settings for Nikon Z6 and Z6 II on Usersettings „U1“ and „U2“ erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.