NX Field is a remote photography application developed by Nikon Corporation.
We can now remotely configure and operate up to 9 cameras connected to a network and press the shutter buttons.
In addition, we can download image data directly to iPhone or iPad and upload images to an FTP server directly after shooting while the app is running.

Supported digital cameras (as of January 2022)
D6, D5, Z 7II, Z 6II, Z 7, Z 6

To use these features, the camera firmware must be updated to a version that supports NX Field.
The update is performed by a Nikon authorized service representative. For more information, visit the following website.
https://nps.nikonimaging.com/nx_field/
The update is not available in some countries; contact your service provider for more information.

Most important functions according to Nikon:

• Control remote cameras (up to a recommended maximum of nine) from your iPhone or iPad.
• Display the view through the camera lens on your iPhone or iPad while shooting.
• With the iPad version, you can capture images from a distance while viewing the views through the lenses of up to nine remote cameras.
• Adjust exposure, focus, white balance, image quality, and other settings remotely.
• Remotely format memory cards and edit FTP profiles on remote cameras.
• Trigger the shutter buttons on all connected remote cameras simultaneously. You can also trigger the triggers of selected cameras one after the other.
• Upload images directly from the remote camera to an FTP server.
• Copy saved settings for all remote cameras to other iPhones or iPads.
• The iPad version can display remote camera locations using handwritten drawings.
• Wired Ethernet connections provide higher reliability and faster image transmission than wireless connections.

Der Beitrag Remote control and tethered shooting for Nikon Z6, Z6II, Z7, Z7II with NX Field erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Camera Nikon Z6II

Mirrorless, light-weight, durable, perfect for both photo and video. We love Nikons user interface and picture quality. The best system we ever owned.

Learn More

Lens Nikkor Z 24-70mm f2.8

Our video-workhorse: Compatible with the gimbal, great low light performance, silent. Also great for photo documentaries. Our favorite always-on lens.

Learn More

Lens Nikkor Z 24-200mm f4-6.3

Our favorite always-on lens for our second camera. Allthough too heavy for the gimbal, great range for shooting nearly everything.

Learn More

Lens Nikkor Z 20mm f1.8

Shooting interior or the milky way in a slovenian night sky? This is your lens.

Learn More

DJI Mavic 2 Pro

Best picture quality when it comes to aerial shooting. Tried a lot of other drones before but this is best of class. Maybe the Mavic 3 is better.

Learn More

DJI Action 2

Works on the hood of the car, can be attached to a kite, can be carried around on a descend into a cave. Doesn’t break, where the loss of the big camera would hurt your wallet. In our opinion the best companion in battery life, image quality and usability.

Learn More

Rollei OLED Remote Shutter

Shooting interior or the milky way in a slovenian night sky? This is your lens.

Learn More

Rollei Compact Traveller No. 1 Carbon Tripod

Ultra light-weight, small dimensions, ideal for limited space in planes or cars. ARCA-compatible head plate.

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3Legged thing Ellie PD L-bracket

With this bracket, we can fast insert the camera to our tripod, gimbal or carrying-system without changing anything. A bracket for lazy people.

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Peak Design Capture Clip v2

ARCA compatible camera carrying system.

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DJI RSC 2 Gimbal

Makes your videos smooth. But sometimes you leave it at home, because it is too heavy to carry around on a 6 hour hike.

Learn More

Arca compatible quick release plate for DJI RSC 2 Gimbal

Makes the DJI RSC 2 gimbal compatible with the Peak Design ARCA-clip on the Ellie PD bracket.

Learn More

Rode Video Mic

Makes your videos smooth. Sometimes you leave it at home, because it is too heavy to carry around on a 6 hour hike.

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Zoom H2n Recorder

Capture dialogues and ambient noises with this handy stand alone recorder. You can even mount it on the camera hot shoe as an external microphone.

Learn More

TP-Link M7200 mobile network router

This little friend helps us to keep our connection to the internet everywhere in the world. We just insert a SIM-card, enter the cards pin and our M7200 spans its WiFi for all our devices, providing us with internetconnection even in the most remote albanian mountain areas.

Learn More

Luminar Neo Photo Editor

Most of our photos are edited with Luminar Products. Intelligent, fast and subscription free creativity for everyone.

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Aurora HDR Software

When shooting and editing HDR photos, Luminar Aurora HDR is the way to go.

Learn More

Der Beitrag Our video and photo gear erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

I have only recently switched to the Nikon Z system. My Nikon Z6 II (Amazon Affiliate Link) is also my first full-frame camera and in just 3 weeks I have already learned to love the entire system. A big contribution to this new love was made by the Nikon Z 24-70 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link). Here’s why.

For video, I’ve been using my Nikon D500 or D7500 with either the Sigma 18-35mm 1.8 Art (Amazon Affiliate Link) or, in most cases, the Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 Art (Amazon Affiliate Link).

The focal length of 24-70mm provides sufficient flexibility for shooting landscapes, portraits or reportage. With a shallow depth of field due to the 2.8 aperture, you can set the scene in a variety of ways. At 35mm focal length, the image field looks particularly natural due to its similarity to the perception of the human eye.

Autofocus – super smooth and super quiet

Unlike the D500 and the D7500, the Nikon Z6 II has a permanent video autofocus that really deserves it’s name. Unlike AF-C, this continuously tracks focus, not just when focusing is activated. AF-F alone is cool, but it only plays to its full potential with the various tracking modes: The camera is smart enough to identify a single image area and then keep it in view. This works with manually set subject selection, automatic selection, but also with eye detection for people and animals. On the D500 and D7500, the reliability and speed of these functions did not meet my expectations.

Especially the eye recognition for humans is fantastic. I can rely on the camera when recording interviews or tutorials. The person being photographed can act flexibly in front of the camera even at open aperture, move away from it or approach it, and the focus is spot on – even in a rather dim ambience and in less than optimal light. Rolling away from the camera with an office chair without losing focus? That would not have been possible with the D500.

Nikon Z 6II Spiegellose Vollformat-Kamera mit Nikon FTZ-Adapter (24,5 MP, 14 Bilder pro Sekunde, Hybrid-AF, 2 EXPEED-Prozessoren,...*

• 14 bilder/s mit af/ae, zweiprozessorentechnik dual expeed
• 24,5 mp cmos-vollformat-sensor

1.799,00 EUR

Amazon

Eye autofocus also works well with animals. Except for my dog “Pelle”. “Pelle” is a young, black and white pied French bulldog. The dark eyes, it seems, sometimes get lost in the pattern of the fur for the camera and the camera then seems unsure whether to focus on fur or face and then prefers to do nothing. Our gray French bulldog “Truffle” does not have these problems, his eyes seem to stand out strikingly enough from the fur.

However, the focus must also be praised for its almost silent operation. I put the Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link) with the FTZ adapter installed up against the Nikkor Z 24-70 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link), and you can hear the result (or not) in the video. During the first test, I thought my ears were broken: the Nikkor focuses almost inaudibly and we hardly feel any focus vibrations in the camera body. Ingenious.

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

With the Sigma, on the other hand (and it is already quiet), the noise is clearly reflected in the sound recording of the camera. Perhaps even amplified by the cavity created by the FTZ adapter between camera and lens. Without a decoupled external recorder, recording is impossible. With the Nikkor Z 24-70 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link), you can now confidently record directly with the camera. In the audio recording mode “Voice”, minimal noises can be eliminated in post-processing or are completely lost in a music track.

The Nikkor Z 24-70 2.8 also convinces with a really smooth focus. While the Sigma changes between the focus points rather gradually, the Nikon “dims” gently, but still quickly from focus to focus. To the viewer’s eye, the video footage is much more pleasing to the eye with soft focus. It’s hard to describe, I think you can see in the video what I mean.

AF reliability even in poor light

The Nikon Z6 II (Amazon Affiliate Link) goes down to -4.5 EV in the autofocus measuring range. This makes it the best in the industry on paper and in reality. Canon states -6 EV for the R6, but relates this to a very fast F/1.2 lens instead of an F/2.0 lens compared to Nikon and Sony.

You also notice this innovation outside of the technical specifications. Shooting in a dimly lit studio? Eye autofocus with a colorfully lit background and a poorly lit face? Filming Christmas decorations in candlelight? No problem.

Gimbal? I don’t need it.

Admittedly, the headline is a bit sensational. A gimbal still has a justification for certain situations, but simultaneous stabilization by camera and lens creates impressive results.

The Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link) arrived delayed, so I first used the Z 6 II with the above-mentioned Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 on the FTZ adapter. These shots were already extremely stable due to the camera’s built-in “Sensor-Shift-VR” image stabilizer with moving image sensor and shake compensation on 5 axes.

Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70 mm 1:2,8 S (INKL. HB-87, CL-C2)*

• Professionelles Standardzoomobjektiv mit Z-Bajonett und hoher durchgehender Lichtstärke 1:2.8
• Multi-Focusing System mit Naheinstellgrenze 0,3 m, Dezidierter OLED Status Multifunktionsmonitor

1.999,99 EUR

Amazon

When the Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link) arrived, the reliability of the image stabilization improved once again, even though the Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 (Amazon Affiliate Link) doesn’t have an image stabilizer built into the lens itself. Somehow, the camera and lens must be able to stabilize the image better than via the FTZ adapter due to the shorter path between sensor and lens.

The stabilization is so powerful that it definitely irritated me during pans and subject tracking at first. The image did not follow my movements to the extent that I was used to – the image stabilizer gave everything. You can either get used to this and try to factor this camera behavior into your own movements, or you can use the VR’s Sport mode, which leaves panning and subject tracking largely untouched despite the activated image stabilizer and still delivers outstanding results.

How not to love this set?

Technically, this camera and lens set can only amaze you. This set is equally convincing in the photo sector. The VR easily compensates 3 f-stops reliably in practice. HDR exposure series from the free hand without changing the image section – no problem.

The combination of camera and lens costs just under 3,800€ after deducting all promotional discounts in December 2020. That hurts, of course, but when I look at how much time I used to waste due to faulty focus points and the resulting reshooting and post-processing, it should still be worth it. If you don’t believe my praise, you really should try the set – I myself didn’t expect such great development and features. Switching to the Z-System was the right decision.

Der Beitrag Nikon Z6 II with Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 – The ultimate video dream team erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

The complete manual as video

Reading’s not your style? Here you see all settings with explanation in the video.

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Setting the Camera to M Mode and video mode

This M mode gives us full control over both exposure time and aperture. At the top right of the display you will find a toggle switch with a photo and a video symbol. Toggles this switch so that the video mode is active.

Choosing the right shutter speed

When creating videos, the shutter speed must always be set in proportion to the video material being made and its frame rate.
As exposure time I use 1/60, because I usually shoot videos later with 30 frames per second (30p), more about that later.
If you use other frame rates, like 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p or 24p, you have to adjust the shutter speed to the next suitable value. Here again the overview:

Attention: Please also note the section “Flicker reduction” in this context.

Choosing the right aperture

Which aperture you choose is up to you, depending on how you want to present your motif. If you choose a lower aperture, the background of your motif will blur due to the shallow depth of field, making your motif more prominent.

With a higher aperture, the background of your motif is sharper due to the high depth of field and the entire image is characterized by a high depth of detail due to continuous sharpness.
Note that if you choose a higher aperture, the image itself becomes darker, and if you choose a lower aperture, the image becomes brighter.

The only important thing at this point is that we have control over the aperture, because we use the M mode of our camera to do this. If we were to let the camera control the aperture in A mode, the camera would change the aperture depending on the light situation while shooting and we would take a shot with varying depth of field and brightness all the time. Not only does this look unprofessional, it’s also really annoying for the viewer.

Movie Shooting Menu Settings

For all the following settings, we switch to the movie recording menu. The settings stored there only take effect when we operate the camera in movie mode. I don’t proceed here in the order of the menu entries, as for example some settings are already adjusted automatically by the selection of the resolution and frame rate and we don’t have to deal with them anymore.

Choosing the correct frame size/frame rate

I make my own video recordings in 4k with 30 frames per second.
At 30 frames per second, movements in the picture look most natural and smooth, and 60p shots of action cams can be integrated very easily, for example to create slow-motion functions.

Therefore, I first select the setting “3840 x 2160; 30p” in the film recording menu under “Frame size/frame rate”.
With these settings, the “Choose image area” is changed to “FX” by default, the movie quality is thus automatically set to “High” and so we don’t need to deal with these menu items anymore.

Note: To be honest, nobody buys a Nikon Z6 or Z6 II to make bad videos, I myself never understood why there is the possibility to set the movie quality to “Low” at all.

Movie file type

I use MOV as I think it has the best quality. Further on it is faster when post-editing footage on Mac.

ISO sensitivity settings

Now you can decide how you want to proceed and whether you want to make the ISO settings manually or automatically. In the menu entry “IOS Sensitivity Settings” you can select if the automatic should be used in the field “Auto ISO control (Mode M)”.

• If you are recording a video in an environment where the lighting conditions in the subject will not change, you can manually adjust the ISO settings and then leave them at the correct value.
• If you have to assume that lighting conditions will change during shooting, for example because a person moves in the picture and their illumination varies, use the ISO automatic.
• If you are simply lazy, regardless of the ambient light conditions, you also use the ISO automatic. Seriously, ISO auto works reliably and doesn’t cause any image distortion if the ISO number changes during shooting. Actually, you can use the ISO automatic with a clear conscience.

There is one thing that needs to be considered with regard to the ISO automatic. Set the “Maximum sensitivity” value to “10,000”. Above this value, the image quality can suffer from noise and color noise, so we only allow the ISO automatic to operate up to this value.

White balance

Almost the same applies here as with the ISO automatic.
Actually, the automatic white balance is sufficiently reliable. I use it in 90% of all shots.

Only when using artificial light sources with different light colors or temperatures do I work manually here, because otherwise the camera tends to change the white balance during a shot. This does not look nice.

The same applies when the sky often changes the light conditions due to fast passing clouds.

Picture Control

Here I select the setting “FL Flat”.
This preserves details over a wide range of tonal values, which maximizes the optimization potential in later post-processing, i.e. you can get the most out of this profile afterwards.

Active D-Lighting

Off. I don’t want the camera to manipulate the image independently.

High ISO NR

Here we leave the default value “Normal” set.

Vignette, diffraction and distortion control

Enable all of them, apply “Normal” mode when possible.

Flicker reduction

The flicker reduction is intended to avoid flickering in the image, which can be caused by artificial lighting. Depending on the frequency at which the local power grid operates (50Hz in Germany), some light sources tend to emitt the normal fluctuations in the power grid, so that you will notice them when recording video at that light.

The automatic flicker reduction delivers good results. Sometimes, however, it also fails, this can happen in very bright environments, for example.
To counteract this, you can take the following measures:

• Manual setting of the flicker reduction to 50Hz or 60Hz, depending on which setting gives the best result.
• If the flicker reduction is not enough, you may need to adjust the shutter speed, even if this would violate the above recommended shutter speeds.
  o1/125s, 1/60s or 1/30s at 60Hz power grid
  o 1/100s, 1/50s or 1/25s at 50Hz power grid

Metering

I use Matrix metering in 99% of shootings. There are some rare cases where I use single point metering, for example when doing shots of people or objects against very bright or dark backgrounds.

Focus Mode

These settings depend on what you are shooting. For interviews and tutorials I mostly use AF-C or AF-F for making the camera follow my face when I move. In recording landscapes without any moving objects, an initial AF-S is suitable. Go ahead, try out what fits your needs best.

AF-area Mode

Same here, it depends on what you are shooting. Go ahead, try out what fits your needs best.

Electronic VR

Enable it when shooting free hand, turn it off when shooting from tripod.

Microphone sensitivity

When I use the built-in microphone of the Z6 or Z6 II, I use the automatic level.
If I use an external microphone such as my Zoom H2n, I manually level the microphone input.
You can find more details about external microphones in this blog post “Zoom H2n as an external microphone on the DSLR”.

Attenuator

Off.

Frequency response

Here you can choose between “Wide” and “Voice”. I personally don’t like the sound of the “Voice” setting in speech at all and therefore use the much more natural sounding “Wide” frequency response, no matter if I record with the built-in microphone of the Z6 or Z6 II or my Zoom H2n as an external microphone. You can find more details about external microphones in this blog post “Zoom H2n as an external microphone on the DSLR”.

Wind noise reduction

The wind noise reduction settings only work when we use the Z6’s and Z6 II’s built-in microphone.

• If I record in locked, windless rooms, I switch off wind noise reduction as a potential source of error.
• If I record outside with the built-in microphone, I activate wind noise reduction.

Which memory card is suitable for 4k video?

So that your camera can pack even high data rates quickly on the memory card, you should rely on a correspondingly fast CFExpresscard ( supported by Z6 and Z6 II) or High Speed SD card (supported only by Z6 II).
I myself use the following cards:

SanDisk Extreme PRO 128 GB SDXC-Speicherkarte bis zu 300 MB/Sek, UHS-II, Class 10, U3*

• Superschnelle SDHC- und SDXC UHS-II-Speicherkarten mit Aufnahmegeschwindigkeiten von bis zu 260 MB/Sek.
• Maximieren Sie die Effizienz mit Übertragungsgeschwindigkeiten von bis zu 300 MB/Sek.

Amazon

SanDisk Extreme Pro CFexpress-Speicherkarte Typ B 128 GB (1.700 MB/s Lesen, 1.200 MB/s Schreiben, RescuePRO Deluxe, ruckelfreie...*

• Lesegeschwindigkeiten bis 1.700 MB/s und Schreibgeschwindigkeiten bis 1.200 MB/s ermöglichen mit der CFexpress Speicherkarte...
• Herausragende 4K-Videoleistung. Der CFexpress Formfaktor ermöglicht die Aufzeichnung von RAW-Videodaten in 4K mit zuverlässiger...

89,99 EUR

Amazon

Record video – what do I have to do?

Now it’s getting easy. Now switch on Live-View and you will see the camera’s field of view in 4K mode on the display. By pressing the red “Record” button on the left under the release button, you start and stop the recording.

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Nikon Z6 and Z6 II in camera 4K Video Settings – Best practise explained step by step erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Settings for HDR recordings by free hand and from the tripod saved to usersetting bank „U1“

In order to be able to record HDR recordings free hand and from tripod, we use the following settings on the User Setting bank „U1“. For freehand shooting we use the CH mode for fast continuous shooting, for touch-free and therefore shake-free shooting from a tripod we use the self-timer later. However, the following settings apply to both scenarios. With SLR cameras, there were dedicated settings for freehand and tripod, since with DSLRs we also used mechanisms such as mirror lock-up to reduce camera shake. With the mirrorless cameras of the Nikon Z-series, this is not necessary.

With the following settings, we will later take 5 images which will be combined to one HDR image.

If you prefer to create 7 images for a larger bandwidth instead of 5 images, you can put the alternative settings with 7 single images (marked blue) on the user setting bank U2. However, I recommend to take 7 single images only with a tripod.

Nikon D7500 Digital SLR im DX Format (20,9 MP, EXPEED 5-Prozessor, AF-System mit 51 Messfeldern, ISO 100-51.200, 4K UHD Video...*

• 20,9 MP DX-CMOS-Filter ohne optischen Tiefpassfilter; 180k-Pixel-RGB-Belichtungsmesssensor; Expeed 5-Bildprozessor; ISO-Empfindlichkeit...
• 8 Bilder pro Sekunde maximale Serienbildgeschwindigkeit; 51 AF-Messfelder mit 15 Kreuzsensoren und Messfeldgruppensteuerung

773,14 EUR

Amazon

General Camera settings

1. Selecting the correct operating mode:
   Turn the program selector wheel to „A”.
2. Adjust the correct aperture:
   At this point I set aperture to “8” for HDR shots and change it according to the subject and environment.
3. Setting a suitable ISO number:
   I’ll start here at ISO 200.

Settings in the “Photo Shooting Menu”

1. Optional: change folder names to HDRZ6 (this gives us our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Optional: change file name to HDR (so we can easily distinguish HDR photos from “normal” photos by the file name)
3. Choose image area: FX
4. Image size: JPEG L and RAW L
5. NEF (RAW) recording: Lossless Compression and 14-bit
6. ISO sensitivity settings: ISO auto OFF, start at 100
7. White balance: cloudy sky, so that always the same white balance is used during the bracketing row, the correct correction we carry out later at the PC.
8. Manage Picture Control: NL (Neutral)
9. Active D-Lighting: OFF
10. Long exposure NR: OFF
11. Vignette Control: OFF
12. Diffraction compensation: OFF
13. Auto distortion control: OFF
14. Flicker reduction: OFF
15. Metering: Matrix
16. Skip flash control, flash mode and flash compensation, because we don’t use flash anyway
17. Auto Bracketing set: AE (without flash)
    Number of exposures 5F / alternatively 7F
    Step size 1.0
18. Multiple exposure: OFF
19. HDR (high dynamic range): OFF
    Note: We want to create an HDR ourselves from the individual shots later, if we used this option, the camera would assemble an HDR itself, without us having any influence on the final result. This function is only used by people who normally take photos with their smartphone.
20. Interval timer shooting: OFF
21. Time-lapse movie: OFF
22. Focus shift shooting: OFF
23. Silent photography: OFF

Neewer 2er Pack 750II TTL Blitz Speedlite Kit mit 2.4G Wireless Trigger und Diffusor, Kompatibel mit Nikon DSLR DSLR D850 D810...*

• BLITZMODI: High Guide Nr. 58 (ISO 100, 180mm), Unterstützt TTL, Manuell, Multi, S1-, S2-Modus, Wiederaufladezeit: ca. 3,5s, Drehung um...
• KOMPATIBILITÄT: Kompatibel mit Nikon D810 D800 D750 D700 D7500 D7200 D7100 D7000 D610 D600 D500 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300...

Amazon

Settings in “Custom configuration Menu”

We leave all settings on the default values except for the following settings mentioned here:

1. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – self-timer delay: 2
2. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – number of shots: 5 / alternatively 7 shots
3. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – interval between shots: 0.5 seconds
4. Menu area E “Bracketing & Flash” – E7 Bracketing order: N (MTR > under > over)

Save settings permanently to Usersetting bank „U1“

In order to really save the settings we have made so far, we go back to the “SYSTEM” menu and select the memory bank „U1“ under the “Save User Settings” system menu item and confirm twice with “OK”.
If we now switch to another operating mode such as “A”, “M” or “S” or switch off the camera and then switch back to the „U1“ program, all our previously set data will be available again. Depending on the available light, we may have to adjust the exposure series properties to the lighting conditions.

Taking photos

We have now saved all settings and can make our recordings when we access the usersetting „U1“.
First we switch off the autofocus and focus manually, so that the focus does not change unintentionally during the exposure series.

When shooting with a tripod

First, turn off the image stabilizer if present on the lens. Switch to the self-timer. Now 5 shots (or alternatively 7 shots) are taken automatically within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

When shooting free hand (without a tripod)

First, turn on the image stabilizer, if present on the lens. Switch to high speed mode CH. Now, while holding the shutter-release button down, 5 shots are taken in a row within the configured exposure bracket. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

Special offer

Beschoi Fotorucksack wasserdicht Kameratasche Kamerarucksack mit Laptopfach für Canon Sony Nikon Olympus SLR/DSLR Kamera,...*

• Dieser Kamera Rucksack geeignet für DSLR Kamera mit aufgesetztem Objektiv bis 320mm, 4-6 weitere Objektive, Blitzgerät, Zubehör, 14...
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Amazon

How to develop the HDR photo / Which Software to use

As a software for HDR merging I use Aurora HDR.
You can get yourself a free trial by clicking this link: https://skylum.evyy.net/pixelfriedhofaurorahdr

See all steps of the configuration in my video

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Camera-Carrying-System Peak Design Capture Clip v3: https://geni.us/KFxtYmM (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 24-70mm 2.8: https://geni.us/pKt2sbG (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro: https://geni.us/ADMHVq6 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 150-600mm: https://geni.us/xJ3A3 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 18-35mm 1.8: https://geni.us/rnztt4N (Amazon Affiliate Link)

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag HDR Settings for Nikon Z6 and Z6 II on Usersettings „U1“ and „U2“ erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Like the Nikon Z 5, the Z6 II and Z7 II can be powered via USB-C connection and the battery can even be charged during a shot. This feature makes the two cameras especially suitable for long shoots, such as interviews or long-running time-lapse recordings.

It is important that the USB-C power supply unit or a power bank used supports “USB Power Delivery”. When using a Powerbank, it must provide at least 15 watts of power.

Compatible Powerbank for Z6 II and Z 7 II

As a Powerbank with Quick Charge I have been using the Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 (Amazon Affiliate Link) for years now. This Powerbank supports Qualcomm’s “Quick Charge 3.0” and “Power Delivery” standard, which is mandatory for use with the Z5, Z6 II or Z7 II. The PowerCore Speed 20000 (Amazon Affiliate Link) offers with 20000 mAh enough energy reserves to charge my iPhone 11 Pro Max 4 times or to charge an iPad Pro about one and a half times.

The Powerbank can also be charged with the power supplies listed below.

Anker PowerCore Speed 20000, Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 Zusatzakku, Abwärtskompatibel mit Quick Charge 1 & 2, mit PowerIQ, 20000...*

• DAS ANKER PLUS: Schließe dich den über 30 Millionen glücklichen Kunden an. Lade Anker.
• BLITZSCHNELL LADEN: Qualcomms Quick Charge 3.0 (24 W) mit Ankers eigener PowerIQ und VoltageBoost Technologie liefert die schnellste...

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Compatible USB-C chargers for Z6 II and Z7 II

The power supply used for charging must also support the “Power Delivery” standard. With the Nikon as well as with other devices I made good experiences with the Anker power supplies.

I myself successfully use the following power supplies (both Amazon affiliate links):

• Anker PowerPort+1 18W USB charger with Quick Charge 3.0
• Anker PowerPort Speed 5, 63W 5 Port USB charger with Quick Charge 3.0 & Power IQ 

In the end you have to decide for both devices whether you want to choose a heavy or light version and whether you want to supply only a maximum of 2 devices or 5 devices simultaneously with power.

Both devices can also charge the above mentioned Powerbank.

Anker Powerport+ 1 Quick Charge 3.0, 18W 3Amp USB Wandladegerät, Kompatibel mit Quick Charge 2.0, Kompatibel mit Galaxy...*

• DAS ANKER PLUS: Schließe dich den über 55 Millionen glücklichen Kunden an. Lade Anker.
• BLITZSCHNELL GELADEN: PowerPort+ 1 garantiert, dass deine Smartphones und Tablets dank Quick Charge 3.0 und PowerIQ Technologie so...

Amazon

Anker PowerPort Speed 5, 63W 5 Port USB Ladegerät, Netzteile mit Quick Charge 3.0 & Power IQ für Samsung Galaxy S8 / S7 / S6 /...*

• DAS ANKER PLUS: Schließe dich den über 30 Millionen glücklichen Kunden an. Lade Anker.
• BLITZSCHNELL LADEN: Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 in Kombination mit Ankers PowerIQ und VoltageBoost Technologie liefern die...

50,28 EUR

Amazon

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Der Beitrag Charging Nikon Z6 II and Z7 II with Compatible USB-C Powerbanks and power supplies erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Version 3.0 adds animal face/eye autofocus to the Z6 and Z7, allowing the cameras to detect the eyes and faces of dogs and cats. This feature is especially interesting for animal photography.

The subject tracking when shooting in AF-C mode has also been adapted. It now largely corresponds to the 3D tracking of Nikon’s digital SLR cameras, making it more user-friendly.

SanDisk Extreme PRO CFexpress Speicherkarte Typ B 512 GB (Lesegeschwindigkeiten bis 1700 MB/s, für RAW 4K-Video,...*

• Mehr Geschwindigkeit als andere KartenHochgeschwindigkeit, fortlaufende Aufnahme und verbesserte Workflow-Effizienz weit über das...
• Ruckelfreie 4K-Video-LeistungDas CFexpress-Design macht 4K-Videoaufnahmen im RAW-Format mit einer nachhaltigen Leistung bei geringer...

179,29 EUR

Amazon

In addition, more brands of CFexpress memory cards are now supported. Thus, ProGrade and Lexar CFexpress memory cards (Type B) are now also supported.

Download for Nikon Z6: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/353.html
Download for Nikon Z7: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/352.html

Also available today for the Z50 is the new firmware version 1.10. This improves the autofocus when taking self-portraits in movie mode.
Download for Nikon Z50: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/354.html

Der Beitrag Nikon Z6 and Z7 get eye autofocus for animals with firmware 3.0 erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Alpenglow – Golden and Blue Hour with Geolocation

I regularly use Alpenglow to predict the Golden or Blue Hour. The app determines the exact time frame via geolocation and can also inform you about the start of the geolocation via push notification. In addition, the app shows the expected weather quality, e.g. whether cloudiness due to fog, precipitation or humidity is to be expected.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/alpenglow-golden-hour-weather/id978589174?mt=8

LE Calculator – Calculate exposure times for ND filters

Whoever takes pictures with several minutes exposure time in the Bulb mode of the camera and uses ND filters, must inevitably multiply the regular exposure time with the respective ND filter to determine the correct time. Of course there are tables for this, but this app makes the conversion a breeze.
https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/long-exposure-calculator/id694553269?mt=8

Nikon Manual Viewer – The operating instructions always at hand

Who always wants to carry around the original instruction manual of his camera? Nobody. That’s what this app is for.
https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/manual-viewer-2/id631171410?mt=8

ControlMyCamera – Remote release, live viewer, image download

Provided your camera has WLAN and you have installed the latest firmware version, you can use this app to replace the hated “SnapBridge” app.
ControlMyCamera is the mobile version of the software “qdslrdashboard” and allows you to remotely trigger the camera with Live-View on the mobile device and download images to your mobile device, the latter even for RAW files.
https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/controlmycamera/id1444319448?mt=8

Luminar 3: My first choice as a Lightroom alternative

I’m gonna do some advertising. I’ve been dealing with all kinds of image editing software for months, comparing a lot, testing a lot and finally choosing RAW developer and Lightroom alternative Luminar 3.

Have a look and try the free trial version. Just click on the banner:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Useful tools: Photography apps for iPhone erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

For which purpose do I need an external remote release?

If you want to take long exposures with an exposure time of more than 30 seconds, you will soon notice that the camera has reached its limits. Most cameras limit the long-term exposure up to a maximum exposure time of 30 seconds. If you want to expose longer, you can use the so-called bulb mode of the camera. This bulb mode exposes the image as long as the shutter-release button is pressed. Now nobody really wants to keep the shutter button pressed for a minute while taking a picture, and the image would probably shake with the shaky hand. This is where the remote shutter release comes in. The above-mentioned long exposure times are used, for example, if you want to take long shots with ND filters in actually sufficient or even very bright lighting conditions. This allows you to achieve effects such as very soft waterfalls or clouds in the image. In addition, long-term recordings can also eliminate people running through the image in photos.

Longexposure shot of the Woudagemaal in Lemmer (NL). 1 minute 30 seconds exposure time. Clouds and water are extremely soft. Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Original Nikon remote release vs. Rollei remote release – 150€ vs. 20€

Since I exclusively use Nikon cameras, I refer in my review to the comparison to the Nikon remote release MC-36A. The Rollei remote control is also available for Canon, Sony, Fuji, Olympus and Panasonic. The functions should also be the same for the cameras of these manufacturers and my review should therefore also apply to camera owners of the aforementioned manufacturers.

Compared to the Nikon MC-36A remote release, the Rollei remote release (Amazon Affiliate Link) is 130€ cheaper. To be honest, I was skeptical about this price difference. Can this still work?

Fact is, the functional range of both devices is approximately the same. Both devices allow the programming of start time, exposure time and intervals. In addition, both devices offer an acoustic signal function that can be switched off, a control light, multifunction selector, as well as a lock switch for completely manual triggering (recording as long as the trigger remains pressed). During purely manual release by pressing and holding the shutter release button, a timer automatically counts the past exposure time. If you compare the pure arrangement of the buttons and the layout of the display, you will see that both devices have approximately the same structure. For this reason alone, the functions cannot differ much. The digital timer and interval functions as well as the display illumination require the insertion of two AAA batteries in both devices. I use the rechargeable AAA batteries from Eneloop in almost all areas of application and have not yet had them emptied in the remote trigger after six months.

Rollei Kabelfernauslöser für Nikon – erlaubt die Fernauslösung, Langzeitbellichtungen, Serienbild und Zeitintervall Aufnahmen...*

• ✅ Der Rollei Kabelfernauslöser ermöglicht Programmierung von Startzeit, Belichtungsdauer und Intervalls bis zu 100 Stunden im...
• ✅ Manuelle Langzeitbelichtung mit Zeitanzeige. Die Belichtungskontrolle wird zusätzlich mit Signalton unterstützt. Bis zu 399...

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Nikon MC-36A Fernauslöserkabel mit Timer (0,9m)*

• Kabellänge: 85 cm
• 10-poliger Anschluss und Stecker

Amazon

Differences can only be found in the details

When using it, it is noticeable that the Rollei remote release (Amazon Affiliate Link) is not as ergonomic in the hand as the partially rubberized original from Nikon. The Nikon case feels more stable and valuable. Especially the cover of the battery compartment of the Rollei is a bit looser, but by no means so loose that the lid falls off, as some Amazon reviews describe it. For me, it’s bearable at this competitive price.

The biggest difference to the Nikon MC36A is the connection cable of the Rollei remote release. If the original Nikon remote release can only be connected to cameras with a 10-pin socket, the Rollei remote release can also be connected to cameras with a connection for the Nikon MC-DC2 remote release.

The higher compatibility with the alternative connection is both a blessing and a curse. Although the Rollei remote release can be used more flexibly with more cameras, it does not have a continuous connection cable, but a 3.5mm jack socket as an adapter in the cable, into which either the 10-pin plug or the MC-DC2 connector can then be plugged. Although this additional plug connection is very tight, there is of course the danger that the cable connection will be disconnected due to carelessness if the cable is pulled too tightly. In practice, this has not happened to me yet, but I check this connector for errors before every recording. On the other hand, nobody should pull the remote release strongly, as the movement would ruin the recording.

There is also a common minus point, because none of the devices has a tripod holder for the remote control in the scope of delivery. Please Rollei, if you can hear me, simply enclose a plastic holder for the tripod leg. This would be an advantage over the original and other third market products.

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Summary

I’m glad I saved almost 140€. On my Nikon D500 (Amazon Affiliate Link) and Nikon D7500 (Amazon Affiliate Link) the Rollei remote release (Amazon Affiliate Link) works without any problems, the functions and the operation are as intuitive as on the original. I can accept the differences in texture and workmanship for this price. The low price also has one plus point: I like to be clumsy and should I accidentally drop a 20€ device into the water or tread on it with my foot, it doesn’t annoy me as if I had destroyed the 150€ expensive original device.

About this test

This test was not sponsored or purchased. I bought the product myself and honestly report about my experiences. The links in the article are Amazon affiliate links as compensation for my work on this article.

Development of long-term exposures with Luminar 3

I develop the Langezit recordings later on the Mac/PC with Luminar 3, which in my opinion is the best Lightroom alternative.

Have a look and try the free demo. Just click on the banner:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Review: Rollei cable remote shutter release for long exposures with interval and timer function erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

AF-S

AF-S was introduced in 1992.
An autofocus motor integrated into the lens drives focusing.
The integrated motor is an ultrasonic silent wave motor (SWM).

In contrast to earlier autofocus motors, this motor was the first to distinguish itself by its quiet noises during focusing. In addition, the system was faster and more precise than previous systems.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor DX 18-55mm 1:3,5-5,6G VR II Objektiv*

• Ultrakompaktes Standard-Zoomobjektiv mit hochwertiger Optik für digitale Nikon-Spiegelreflexkameras mit Bildsensor im DX-Format
• 195g leicht und in Transportstellung nur 59,5 mm lang, nicht mitdrehendes Filtergewinde für 52 mm Filter

119,00 EUR

Amazon

AF-P

AF-P was first introduced in 2016. You could say it is the quieter evolution of AF-S.
Here, too, an autofocus motor integrated into the lens drives the focusing.
The integrated motor is a modern stepper motor, which is driven by a pulse (hence the name “P”).

Compared to the earlier AF-S standard, AF-P lenses offer even quieter operation and are therefore particularly suitable for filming or focusing in applications such as wildlife photography, where loud noises should be avoided. In addition, AF-P lenses can not only be operated by a switch on the lens housing, but also by the camera controlling the lens digitally, for example from the menu.

Nikon AF-P DX Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Zoomobjektiv*

• Bildstabilisiertes Standard-Zoom-Objektiv für das Nikon DX-Format
• Neuartiger Schrittmotor für einen leisen und schnellen Autofokusbetrieb

119,00 EUR

Amazon

The predecessors AF and AF-I

AF-S and AF-P were preceded by other predecessor systems, which I will not forget in my enumeration:

AF

AF was introduced in 1986 and is the Nikon original autofocus system.
The AF motor was not integrated into the lens, instead a motor integrated into the camera controls the lens.
Anyone operating this type of lens on a camera (3000 and 5000 series) without an integrated AF motor cannot use autofocus functions because neither the camera nor the lens have a motor.

AF-I

AF-I was introduced in 1992 and integrated the autofocus motor into the lens for the first time. Due to the motor built directly into the lens, the autofocus could work much faster than before.

My first choice as a Lightroom alternative

I’m gonna do some advertising. I’ve been dealing with all kinds of image editing software for months, comparing a lot, testing a lot and finally choosing RAW developer and Lightroom alternative Luminar 3.

Have a look and try the free trial version. Just click on the banner:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag What is the difference between AF-S and AF-P? erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.