After touring Greece’s east coast and the mainland in 2022, it was now the turn of the more southern climes. With the Grimaldi / Minoan “MS Florencia” we sailed from Ancona (IT) to Igoumenitsa (GR). The special thing about this connection: Our two French travel dogs “Trüffel” and “Pelle” are allowed to travel with us in the cabin.

Arrival in Igoumenitsa

Gegen 19:00 Uhr legt unsere Fähre an Griechenlands Westküste im Hafen von Igoumenitsa an. Es wird schnell dunkel und Hungergefühle machen sich breit. Spontan entscheiden wir uns für einen Abstecher in eine kleine Taverne in XXX. Hier beginnt der Urlaub: Griechenland – das einzige Land indem sogar stilles Wasser schmeckt. Die App Park4night macht uns anschließend auf einen Stellplatz an einem nahegelegenden Strand aufmerksam. Hier bauen wir unser Dachzelt unter riesigen Olivenbäumen auf einer Art Terassenparkplatz auf. Wir teilen uns diesen Stellplatz mit einem großen Expeditionsmobil und einem VW-Bus. Jetzt muss nur noch das Wetter besser werden.

Side trip to Lefkada

We had already planned a visit to Lefakada on our 2022 tour of Greece, but decided against it due to lack of time and in favour of Albania. Our first real step for this trip is therefore quickly decided. We quickly pack our things, take a few photos of the beautiful bay and set off towards Lefkada. On the way, we fortify ourselves with frappé, fresh orange juice and small snacks at the Cantina Estrada. An absolute tip from us to take a short break in a pleasant atmosphere on the way. When we arrive on Lefkada, we first explore Castle XXX, but only from the outside, as it is closed.

Afterwards, we cross a pontoon bridge directly into the lively centre of Lefkada. Here you will find numerous cafés, tavernas, yachts, sailing ships and a beautiful old town with narrow streets and flower vines as far as the eye can see.

We parked our car in a guarded car park, safe is just safe. We would have liked to spend the evening in the enchanting Bar XXX, but not at the price of the less than ideal parking space. We drive along the east coast until we arrive in Nidri. Unfortunately, it is very touristy here and there is no old town, but there is the stylish beach bar Maraboo with very good cocktails and a camper car park with surprisingly clean sanitary facilities.

Through the mountains of the Peloponnese to Kalavrita

Due to the modest weather forecast for the next few days, we spontaneously decide against a planned boat tour around Lefkade and against continuing our journey via Kefalonia and Zakynthos, but instead opt for a direct trip to the Peloponnese. We want to explore the east coast and the mountainous regions of the Peloponnese first, and then head to the western south.

The second spot is supposed to be a beautiful, blue mountain lake in the direction of Kalavryta. Besides the lake as such, there is a pretty good taverna here, according to Google Maps. Our Ralfi fights his way through storm, rain and thick fog over mountain passes to the lake, where unfortunately everything is closed.

Both taverns are only open at weekends, which is a pity. Fortunately, we are quickly consoled about our disappointment when we discover an enchanted section of forest with playful streams. Elves, fairies and trolls must live here. Unfortunately, the fabulous creatures are very shy, so we don’t get to see any. Towards evening we arrive in Kalavryta. Kalavryta is a beautiful village, but its tourist heyday is as a ski resort in winter. Good and bad for us at the same time. Numerous shops, tavernas and bars are closed, but there is little going on.

We quickly find very good food at the Cellar Tavern and a final beer or two in the quaint fifty/50 bar by the open fire. Daniel uses the evening twilight to catch a photo of the village’s picturesque railway station.

The railway line through Kalavryta is supposed to be beautiful, but unfortunately we only notice this later on in our journey. We are allowed to spend our night next to the closed Hotel Helmos. The owner is open-minded and friendly and doesn’t even want any money from us.

Oak woods of Foloy and the gorge of the centaur

Since we have already failed to spot elves, fairies and trolls, we now want to test our luck with the centaur in the oak forests of Foloi. For this we even take a very bumpy and long off-road route in order to be able to go hiking directly in the centaur gorge. Unfortunately, there is no official hiking route, only a path through the river bed. Daniel stays in the air-conditioned car with Trüffel and Pelle while Michelle goes on the tracks of the centaur.

Nature is wild, charming and untouched. Michelle swears she caught a glimpse of the centaur, but unfortunately she doesn’t have her camera ready fast enough. I wonder if you can believe her. The heat makes us quite thirsty, so we decide to treat ourselves to a cool beer in the nearby village of Foloi. A few elderly Greek gentlemen have gathered on a central village square. They are drinking beer, happily telling each other stories and are pleased about our arrival. We quickly make contact and get to know Panagiotis and his friends.

To our happy surprise, Panagiotis buys us a beer to our newly formed friendship and gives Michelle a bunch of roses from his garden. We take a photo together as a souvenir and promise to ring his doorbell on our next visit. The way to our next step leads us through light-flooded old oak forests. A magical sight, which invites us to take a short walk, but beware of the numerous wild boars in the region.

Nemouta waterfall

During our evening route planning, Daniel discovers the Nemouta waterfall on Google Maps. The photos are promising; Adam and Eve must have lived here before they had to leave paradise. To get to Nemouta, we have to take another off-road route through the mountains. But with our Ralfi nothing is impossible. The walk to the waterfall is adventurous.

You should definitely take a machete with you. Everything is overgrown and feels like clock forest. Towards the end of the trail, just before the waterfall, you also have to climb a little. It’s best not to wear Birkenstock toe shoes like Michelle did. However, those who take on the arduous path will be more than rewarded at the end. We have seen many waterfalls in Norway, Slovenia and Croatia, but this waterfall in Nemouta is unique and very special. It rises in a kind of green overgrown stone cave and then runs over numerous stone terraces. We stand amidst splashing fresh water, chirping birds, fresh green moss and liana-like tree vines. If this is not paradise, then where on earth is it?

Roast wild boar in the mountain village of Dimitsana

This eventful day ends today in Dimitsana, a historic mountain village in the hinterland of the Peloponnese. At the entrance to the village, a petrol station offers two parking spaces for a fee. When Daniel pays the fee, he feels transported back in time. In this petrol station, time has stood still. The cashier’s area alone resembles a museum. But the somewhat elderly owner of the petrol station is happy about our stay and assures us that we can safely spend the night with him. We set off to explore the old town. As the last rays of the sun move over the mountain ridges, the golden hour bathes the entire village in a breathtaking, golden and warm glow. For dinner tonight, we have a traditional wild boar stew at the XXX taverna. After all, there are plenty of wild boars in this region. Without lying: This was the best wild boar we have ever had, and the taverna is therefore our clear recommendation for everyone who visits Dimitsana.

The evening is still young, so we hop around the local bars of the mountain village for a bit. After tsiporou and Greek coffee, we return to the car and discover to our surprise that the gate to the car has already been secured with a thick padlock. After some initial excitement, however, we still see light in the premises of the petrol station and knock cautiously. Although we seem to be disturbing a card game, we now return to our car.

The next morning we stop again in the centre of Dimitsana for breakfast. At XXX we enjoy Greek delicacies on the artistically designed roof terrace, while life begins to rage below us: Trucks delivering goods, cars parked chaotically with their hazard lights on, coaches squeezing through the narrow streets honking and waiting. From up here, none of this matters to us. “Another frappé, parakalo!”.

Like paradise: The Polylimnio Waterfalls

Paradise rarely comes alone, isn’t that what they say? On the way to the coast we want to visit a second waterfall. There are supposed to be several crystal-clear bathing spots here. The path is not overgrown this time, but it is steep and blessed by the blazing midday sun. Looking at the exhausted faces of the people who meet us, we already have a little respect for the way back. But we have to go through it and so do the Great Danes, whether they like it or not. Once in the forest, two paths lead in opposite directions. On the left there are supposed to be the two lakes, so we decide to cool down first.

Right at the beginning of the route, the first major waterfall awaits us, as well as a small bathing spot. Daniel wildly takes off his clothes to compete with the colourful fish in the blue water. But then he discovers that the water is not only invitingly blue, but also quite fresh. It doesn’t turn out to be more than a dipped toe and the four of us continue towards the big lake and the big waterfall. The way there is not for beginners and definitely not for a hike with two crazy dogs. We have to squeeze along steep cliffs and climb over high rocks. After Pelle almost fell several times to chase a lizard, Michelle decides to wait with the dogs in the shade and let Daniel go on alone.

After only a short time, however, Daniel also returns. He, too, has abandoned the route because he saw his life in danger for a short time. Nevertheless, it was worth taking the route. Here, too, untouched wilderness awaits us, real nature. We decide to try the path leading to the right again. This time, however, we do it individually and without terror dogs. This route also resembles a small adventure. You walk over dilapidated wooden bridges, over rocks to a water feature that runs over several terraces. There is supposed to be a waterfall further up on this side too, but we don’t want to risk anything. After all, the journey has only just begun and we want to continue it in good health and, above all, together.

Ox-eye Bay Voidokilia and coast near XXX

For our taste, Ox Eye Bay is once again a typical tourist trap. Numerous reports that we watched in the run-up to the trip swear by the Caribbean view of Ox Eye Bay.

And yes, the video impressions had an impressive effect on us, so let’s go there. We find an impressively large mass of tourists and Greeks with deck chairs and plastic umbrellas. Everyone splashes around in the blue water and pees in the surrounding dunes. Phew, that was not the sight we had expected.

We look at each other and without words we agree to leave again on the spot. A quick snapshot from the bird’s eye view and then off to a bar that Michelle spotted on the way there.

Driving to Mystra in vain – but the route is great

When Michelle tells you that you have now left the mountains behind and will spend the rest of your time on the coast, you can be sure that the very next day you will be heading for the mountains again. But this time for the last time, I promise. Michelle really wants to go to Mystra to see the remains of the Byzantine settlement. The mountain route there is also supposed to be indescribably beautiful, with stone ceilings towering over the road.

Once again, however, things turn out differently than planned, and in many ways. First of all, we have to take a much longer diversions, the weather is not sunny as announced but frighteningly stormy and we could have saved ourselves the visit to Mystra as we are not allowed to take our dogs onto the premises. So that was 4 hours of driving for nothing. Not quite true, the mountain section was actually quite beautiful apart from the storm and the stone ceilings are a bit of an adventure. However, you should check the height limits beforehand.

Falling asleep to the sounds of the Kardamili Jazz Festival

Our next overnight destination is Kardamili. Michelle shows mercy to Daniel and finds an alternative route to the diversions through the mountains. Unfortunately, this also means that the way back will take longer and that we will have to drive a part of the way back, i.e. twice, in the next few days. As a perfectionist, this is hard to bear, but it will be bearable. We hope that Kardamili will live up to what the photos on the web promise: A small, sweet fishing village with a romantic harbour. Michelle looks for a taverna during the drive, which we hope will allow us to spend the night in the taverna car park directly on the water after a hearty dinner and numerous drinks for dessert. Unfortunately, the plan doesn’t work out because, according to Park4Night, the owner apparently doesn’t like to welcome campers to his car park and sometimes calls the local police at night. The food is okay, but if we had known about this in advance, we would certainly have eaten somewhere else.

Daniel parks the car and Michelle enjoys a Retsina with Trüffel and Pelle in Café XXX. It starts to rain, but that’s not bad at all. Kardamili is indeed very romantic and the warm summer rain, refracted in the warm lights, rather enhances this sensual atmosphere. Next to the café, we observe numerous wasps and hornets sucking up sweet flower juice from a rainy wall. We set off towards the campsite, but not without stopping for a frozen yoghurt on the way. Quite full, we are happy about the short walk to the harbour. Even from a distance we can hear the sounds of jazz.

The Kardamili Jazz Festival is taking place above our campsite. What luck we have. Various jazz groups play in different bars until well into the evening. The sounds of the music and the stories of the artists quickly accompany us into a quiet and peaceful sleep.

Lobster, Crayfish and storm in Limeni

We are woken up by the next morning and three quacking ducks next to our tent. Shortly afterwards, two fishermen arrive. Today we are going to Limeni, but before that we want to fortify ourselves with a healthy breakfast at the café “Kafenio”. The Google photos of the delicious and, above all, artistically designed sandwiches make our mouths water. We can hardly wait, so let’s get going. Like typical German tourists, we are of course already standing in front of the coffee 15 minutes before the regular opening time and now have to wait. It is stormier today than it has been all the last few days. We had imagined it differently. Experiencing the fancy delicacies in the artistic outdoor area in the sunshine is probably not going to happen today. We brave the wind and sit outside anyway. Daniel orders a frappé as usual and I choose a special mountain tea from the region. This is accompanied by a bread with plums, pickles, salami… and one with cream cheese, fig jam, strawberries, anchovies, pepper and pistachio crumbs. The breads are a real taste explosion and the tea very tastefully decorated.

After defending our sandwiches from countless cats, we continue along the coastal road. Our destination today is Limeni, a small, picturesque fishing village just before the drive up to Areopoli.

Pictures on Instagram promise bright blue water, fresh seafood and a picturesque village façade. And that’s exactly what we find. At the foot of the one-way street there are even (non-official) parking spaces for 2-3 vans or off-road vehicles or small motorhomes.

We park our Ralfi there, set up the roof tent and walk to the nearby village. We quickly find our favourite taverna, XXX. We fortify ourselves with a small snack for lunch (squid, gavros and tsipouro) and then treat ourselves to a delicious ice cream. Daniel now wants to try his luck in the sea and Michelle and Pelle are so tired that they take a nap in the roof tent. Daniel quickly gets into the tent, the water seems to be a bit too cold after all. After a nice chat with our Belgian campsite neighbours, we set off again for our taverna. This time, however, we want to try the fresh seafood. We decide on lobster and crayfish.

The latter don’t really look appetising, but they are. Word of honour! Michelle discovers a beautiful little shop opposite the taverna, where you can buy natural beauty products and stylish jewellery. Even Daniel can’t help but take a look at the shop and is just as taken with it as Michelle. You could really buy everything here. After our little shopping tour, we had a cocktail. Daniel in particular is brave today and orders a Sex on the Beach with chilli. While we linger in the cocktail bar, a storm comes up. We break off and try to get into the roof tent as dry as possible. Unfortunately, we don’t really succeed in this endeavour. Our car is parked on red clay soil. This means that 8 little paws have stained the entire tent, the mattress and the sleeping bag with red clay. Thank you very much. Michelle tries to get rid of the worst of it and then we fall asleep to the whirring of the electricity pylon next to us.

Areopoli almost without tourists, but no nightlife feeling

Lost Place – Castle Village Ruin Váthia

Cape Matapan – Roman Baths, Death Oracle of Poseidon, Milky Way

Along Mani’s east coast towards Gythiera and Dimitrios shipwreck

Crossing to Elafonisos and Caribbean pitch on the most beautiful beach in Europe

Short trip to Neapolis with a stormy night in the roof tent right next to our ferry

Our discovery of the most pristine Ionian island – Kythira

Old shipwrecks and brand new stranded ships

Pitoresque harbour town of Avlemonas and our new pastime “Ouzo-Splash-Ouzo-Splash”

A dreamy night at the fishing hut in Vlachou

Discovery of the cave church and flying swallows

Photo session in picturesque Chora – unfortunately at the wrong time

A special kind of accommodation – DonQui Hotel Charlet

Enchanted Springs by Amir Ali and the Parking Lot Dilemma

Offroad to the northernmost point of Kythira – Moudari Lighthouse

Fabulous old Phillipas water mill and adventurous hike over hill and dale

Diving into another age – Castle of Milopotamos

A lunch among friends

Astikon and its nightlife

Kakia Lagada: On the left the sea, on the right the lake, us in the middle

The campsite of Kapsali – a dreamlike lost place

A German Evening in Greece – Everyone Loves Grandma Renata

Monemvasia at dawn and a pitch with a view

Along the coastal road from Kapyrissa to Fokiano

Crowded Nafplio in the midday sun

Amvrak Gulf – Swimming with sea turtles and dolphins

The entire journey as a video documentation

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Der Beitrag 4×4 Roadtrip around Peloponnes, Elafonisos and Kythira erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Stopover near Bokod in Hungary

It is 04:00 at night when we set up our roof tent in Bokod. Before that we have crossed half of Germany, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. After four hours of sleep, the first rays of sunlight wake us up around 08:00, heating up the roof tent. We get ready and set out on the only a few meters wide way to the “floating” village of the Bokodi lake.

Here, a couple has been working for 10 years to make the former fishing village, whose houses are built on stilts in the lake, more attractive and visible to tourists. They invite us to their house, or more precisely, their roof terrace and make us a fresh coffee. That was a good stop!

The hot springs of Loutra Pozar

Around 11 o’clock in Hungary it was all hands on board, Ralfi wants to go to Greece. With our next destination in mind, we continued our journey towards Loutra Pozar. Still in the same evening we wanted to cross the Greek border, in order to start the next morning with a bath in the hot springs. At about 1:00 a.m., after what felt like an endless and tiring drive, we actually reached our destination. Although the last 1 1/2 hours of driving through mountain roads made our adrenaline shoot up once again, we were glad when we finally found a nice spot and pitched our tent. Listening to the soothing sound of water, we and our dogs all quickly fell asleep.

The next morning we quickly exchanged our sleeping clothes for bathing outfits to dive into the hot springs. A bath in the middle of nature, surrounded by forest, stone and birdsong, can there be a more beautiful start to the day? We treated ourselves to another frappé and fed cute little street dogs before continuing our journey.

Salt pans of Pydna near Katerini

Upon our arrival in Katerini, our first stop was Tsipouro Meze. In this form of lunch, you order the Greek pomace brandy Tsipouro and receive various delicacies of Greek cuisine.

For digestion and a little nap, we then drove to the salt pans of Pydna. Parts of the salt pans are freely accessible and bathing in the brine is allowed at a designated spot. The high salt content means that one is carried more in the water than in normal bathing water. In addition, the salt bath is good against skin impurities, mosquito bites and supposedly good against joint ailments.

For the first time we could drive with our “Ralfi” directly to the beach. We unfolded the awning (Quick Pitch Awning) and rested a little in the fresh sea breeze. Truffle and Pelle sniffed the Aegean sea air for the first time.

Such a beach day and sea air can make quite hungry, so we decided to go to the tavern “The Koutouki Nikolas” (Το Κουτούκι του Νικόλα) for dinner. It is one of Daniel’s favorite restaurants, so the anticipation was huge. After 5 years of abstinence, it was back to Snow White salad and deep fried pork. We discovered that the peperonis were actually VERY spicy and enjoyed our first Greek wine. Without Autan, however, the evening would have been only half as nice.

On the way there for dinner, we had already noticed a beautiful place on the beach and campers who were already there. The app park4night helped us once again to find a beautiful place to camp “wild”. It followed our first night on the beach, with the sound of the sea and a magnificent view of Mount Olympus and its shining nearby cities.

Over our coffee the next morning we met Stelios. A nice older Greek man who just came from his night shift and wanted to enjoy the sunrise. We got to talking and exchanged ideas about the working conditions in Greece and Germany, among other things.

Offroad to Mount Olympus

After both the excavation sites at Dion and the mountain village of Pantaleimonas were overrun by groups of students and spoiled our mood properly, we decided on the spot rather to go to Mount Olympus. Here we should have our peace and at the same time we can test what our Ralfi can do. Before we went to the top, we visited the crystal clear waterfall Orlias. Surrounded by frogs and tadpoles we dipped our 12 feet into the cold mountain water.

After cooling down, it was time for Ralfi and Daniel to get to work. While Michelle cleared the path of sharp stones and hanging branches, Daniel drove our Ralfi safely on unpaved gravel roads towards “Koromilia Refuge Olympus”. At the top we met a bachelor party and thus got to know a troop of funny young men from Israel. We offered them all a chilled beer and exchanged some stories. It was a great encounter!

If this is not paradise, where is it?

Gallaria

When Daniel was last in Greece in 2017, a bar was just built in the old train tunnel on the beach of Pantaleimonas. Years before even the Orient Express passed through this tunnel, today exactly in the same place you can find an industrial bar with charm and pretty good cocktails. We tried our way through the cocktail menu, were spoiled with strawberries and pears and found new friends here as well. But it wasn’t just us, our dogs got found new buddies as well. Dear John Ziakas, thank you for the warm evening and the tequila. We like to follow your guitar skills on Instagram and on our next trip to Greece we will definitely enjoy your hospitality again. Last but not least, we were allowed to pitch our tent in the parking lot, perfect!

The next morning should start a little relaxed before the onward journey. We took two loungers on the beach and enjoyed a frappé. Just let the soul dangle before the next longer distance waiting for us.

What was to follow after this harmonious morning was anything but relaxed. Michelle had considered a beautiful route from Pantaleimonas to Paralia Agii Saranta. It should go far from the Google Maps navigation, rather directly along the coast. Let’s put it this way, that we are still alive today and writing this report, seems like a miracle. Through a kilometer-long unsecured construction site in serpentine form, over sharp rocky paths, to overgrown paths on the cliff, in the middle of Nowhere. This was off-road experience at its finest, and Daniel once again demonstrated his driving skills through sweat. We definitely had a very dear guardian angel at our side. Thanks Ralfi, you still take care of your „Himbeertonis“.

The beach was beautiful, but how should this adventurous story end differently than that nothing had opened on the gorgeous beach, but we were hungry, thirsty and exhausted from the day. So it was to go back a bit and look for another place with restoration.

Chorefto

So we ended up unexpectedly and unplanned in Chorefto. The village has a really very nice campsite, which apparently also has glamping tents in high season. Unfortunately, not in low season and so we decided to rather stay near the ports construction site – once again – directly on the sea.

Of course, in the place one thing was more important than anything else: Food. There were plenty of restaurants and bars. Unfortunately, also at least as many, if not more, street dogs. Accordingly, we chose our restaurant based on the criterion of where the street dogs have the hardest time getting to. This way we landed at Petros o Sogabros. The ambience was fantastic, the service good, the seafood as well, but the street dogs still kept us a bit on our toes. All in all, however, a successful evening.

Damouchari

Just as beautiful as its name, is the place itself. Damouchari must have been born out of a dream. Picturesque alleys lead over terraces down to the harbor basin framed by large stones. On the other side of the village there is a wide white pebble beach. By the way, it was a filming location of the movie musical “Mamma Mia”.

We reached Damouchari early in the morning and enjoyed a delicious breakfast on the terrace of the family led Victoria Café. Here we met a lady from Brighton who has been returning to this place again and again for 12 years. We received numerous tips, including the recommendation to visit Fakistra Beach, which is known for its extraordinary beauty.

One breakfast turned into 2 nights in the room where Romy Schneider stayed when she visited Damouchari. Yes, this was not a joke at this point. We decided to stop at Guesthouse Ghermaniko to enjoy this dreamlike place even longer. Unsuspectingly, to our surprise, we ended up in Romy Schneider’s room, which was also beautifully, very purist but stylishly furnished. The guesthouse also belongs to the owner family of the Victoria Café and is absolutely recommended.

Many experiences and adventures followed, and in just a few days and in what is actually a very small place. Michelle received a private yoga lesson in the olive grove with Katerina, the owner of the inn. We met a new Landi friend in the owner of the Damouchari Hotel and chose our dinner ourselves in the kitchen of the Damouchari Hotel from pots on the stove. And we had dinner together with a trusting fox.

Fakistra

During our stay in Damouchari we visited Fakistra and Milopotamos beaches during the day. The way to Fakistra beach was stony and heavy. Heavy was especially Truffle on Daniel’s arm. Being a brave bullipapa, he carried our back-sick Truffle all the way down and later back up again. No idea where Daniel could take the strength from, only love can make such things possible.

However, the effort had been worth it in every case. Here again we found a paradise on earth, with impressive rocks, beautiful clear blue water, green trees and in addition a waterfall. If you like beaches, you will love this bay! You can’t see it on Trüffel in the photo, but he also enjoyed the beach day.

The beach caves of Milopotamos

The next day, the next beach followed. Not quite as paradisiacal, but also really beautiful. Not least because of its caves and rock breakthroughs.

At Milopotamos Beach we explored the caves, which are accessible only from the sea. The water and the entering light from the cave entrance bathes the caves in a blueish light. The water can sometimes make awkward noises, which can be pretty scary at times.

Our way led us further to Melania Beach, where unfortunately everything was still closed due to the season. Just like other beaches on our route. Nevertheless, we got a frappé from the extremely friendly hostess at a taverna that was actually closed and considered a plan B.

The harbor of Katigiorgis

This evening we found our pitch in the harbour of Katigiorgis. In the evening we visited Taverna Areti and were treated with mixed seafood and fish specialties. When we asked the waiter, if we could have a tsipouro „to go“ we received a cup full of ice cubes, two bottles of the clear spirit on the house and took off to our car, right across the bay. Back at the car, we backuped photos and videos, developed a few shots and watched the sun go down with our tsipouro in hand. During the night, there was a light cool breeze, cooling our tent. We slept very well.

Trikeri – the southernmost point of the Pelion Peninsula

The southernmost town of the Pelion Peninsula: Kiriaki near Trikeri. We arrived before noon, went to this beautiful town and explored the alleys, the shipyard and the backyards. Around 12pm we sat down at Manola’s taverna right by the harbor. What a beautiful, quiet day. The appetizers had just arrived when a stray cat caught Pelle’s attention. This little bad bastard broke loose along with his leash and chased the cat. We ran after him yelling “Pelle, Pelle!” but eventually he was out of sight. Thank God the cat escaped and Pelle returned to us in one of the streets. I almost had a heart attack! When we got back to our table, the whole town had gathered there. Everyone heard the crazy German tourists calling all over the village for their dog. But everyone was friendly and many asked if our dog was okay and if everything was fine, even when we were on our way back to the car later.

We ate the best fresh lobster at Manolas and then went back to the car. We set up our photovoltaic array, loaded our gear and went for a swim until thick clouds rolled in on the other side of the bay. We folded up the awning and headed back into town to Manola’s taverna – just in time before it started raining. An hour later, a thunderstorm started and it seemed impossible to return to the car without getting completely soaked. But the friendly Manolas jumped in and offered to drive us in his car across town back to our “Ralfi”. Until 3:00 am we slept on the driver’s seats, then the wind dropped and we put up our tent to be able to sleep properly for at least 4 hours. Thank you Manolas for this great day and your great seafood!

We slowly leave Pelion towards the west coast

One thing we can say now: The east coast is widely underestimated. Everyone praises and recommends the islands and the west, but what they tend to forget is how crowded it can get there. We prefer the (somewhat) more secret corners of this world and Pelion alone is worth a trip.

Continuing our journey the next day, we first stop in the small fishing village of Kóttes to have a real Greek coffee in the taverna Ψαροταβερνα Τσέτα. The old couple was very happy to see our two dogs and our visit. Although we could not communicate properly, it was a cordial meeting. At noon or in the evening there should also be delicious fish and seafood in the taverna, too bad that we do not have infinite time.

Our goals for the day were to take a shower and do laundry for the first time. So we needed a campsite that allowed both and was also on our way to the west coast. After extensive research, we decided on the Sikia campsite in the village of Kato Gatzea. Our way led us to the beautiful pebble beach Παραλία Ραζή, which was surrounded by shady trees. One look was enough and the decision was made, this is where we will make a quick stop, have a beer, unwind and maybe catch up on some sleep. This would also be a wonderful place to stand free, unfortunately we would have been out of fresh underpants. Just a stone’s throw away, we fortified ourselves with a tsipouro meze at Marabu Taverna and got to enjoy some of the best gavros on our trip. For all non-Greeks among us, these are deep-fried anchovies.

The campsite Sikia was surprisingly full. We were no longer used to that, where we were almost the only tourists far and wide everywhere else. Nevertheless, it was really nice and we could quickly understand why there has been so much going on. The clear majority of the pitches had direct sea views due to the terrace structure of the campsite and old olive trees were everywhere. On the day not only our laundry hung on the line, but also we relaxed for the first time in our hammock. In the evening we went to the tavern on the beach. The ambience was excellent, the eggplant salad, however, unfortunately not. The evening ended in a beach bar one campsite away with very good cocktails, which were prepared with dedication. Only the bar-cat Oliver did not have such a nice evening, as usual, due to our terror-pets.

Wild camping like in the adventure novel “A Winter at the Indian Creek” – only in warm

Our next goal for the day was to get as far west as possible. That is, to make a good distance. For refreshment we set ourselves a stopover at the restaurant Anabrysoúla. This restaurant is an absolute recommendation from our side. And if you like to eat trout, you can also enjoy a little adventure. If you want to eat a trout, you have to fish it out of the restaurant’s own trout pond. We preferred to stay with our Tsipouro Meze and watch the spectacle at the next table. Not far from the restaurant is a charming spot for all photographers among you. The stone bridge with its waterfalls of Palaiokarya. The very brave can also cross the lower waterfall on foot over a kind of masonry, but here water shoes are recommended.

We crossed the spectacular Mesochora Dam, but due to permitting difficulties it has never been put into operation since 2001. A classic multi-million dollar construction sin, but with beautiful blue lakes.

After a small off-road adventure through the riverbed, our campsite should be a little wilder and more natural this evening. We set up our tent right next to the river Acheloos. Here it was just us, bees, fish and the last rays of sunlight falling over the nearby mountain ranges into the valley. In places like this, you get a faint sense of what the word freedom can actually mean.

Koronisia and its lagoon

In the west of Greece, however, not only the coast was waiting for us. Michelle had picked out three spots that she really wanted to visit besides the coast. One of these spots was Koronisia, a kind of island in the Ambracian Gulf, which is only connected to the mainland by two narrow roads. Waiting for us were turtles, lots of snakes, romantic blue fishing huts, abandoned wooden boats and, unfortunately, once again a lot of street cats and a few hostile street dogs. We would have liked to stay longer, but due to the circumstances it was then only enough for an unrelaxed but very tasty meal at Γαρ Οίδα. Nevertheless, the fried cuttlefish and the bean salad on the menu are highly recommended.

Red clay site in Kokkinopilos – a rare geological phenomenon

In the middle of the otherwise inconspicuous surroundings of Kokkinopilos, a natural wonder occurs. Out of nowhere, you land in desert-like fields of red clay. It feels like being on another planet, are we suddenly on Mars? The area is not huge, but if you like it unusual, this is the place for you. The perfect ambience for offroading and photo shootings. A bit further north, the next highlight awaits: an old Roman aqueduct. Unfortunately, both are no spots to stay overnight, because high fines of 300€ can follow.

The kayak lake Zirou

However, the perfect next site is not too long in coming. At Zirou Lake, Loukas has realized his dream of a life as a dropout. After studying business and an unhappy job in a company, he now does what he is good at and fills him with pure joy: He runs his own kayak rental business. We hit it off right away with Loukas and the rest of the team and were allowed to stay overnight on his premises. In return we kept an eye on his boats, fair deal I would say. Daniel got a paddle, life jacket and kayak that very evening so he could enjoy the sunrise over the lake during a quiet kayak tour in the early morning hours. Dear Loukas, we wish you continued good luck and above all success in realizing your dream of living “into the wild“.

I almost forgot to mention something extremely important and fabulous. As dusk began to fall, we noticed that we were surrounded by an extraordinary shimmering and blinking. We were virtually standing in the middle of a sea of fireflies. A breathtakingly beautiful sight.

Free standing near Igoumenitsa

The harbor town of Igoumenitsa is probably known to most people because of its ferry connections. We find our place away from the traffic and harbor bustle in a bay called “Corfu Beach”. From the satellite pictures on Google we had hoped to be able to drive maybe completely on the beach, but unfortunately this was not possible – at least not without AT tires and their resistance to sharp-edged and pointed stones. Thanks to the additional ground clearance provided by the air suspension, however, we managed to get one “floor” lower to the water.

We park our Landi so that we can look out of the tent in the direction of the island of Corfu. In the evening we cook behind the car and are awakened at night from time to time by the roar of the ship’s diesel of the ferries passing in the far distance.

Albania

Albania has always been on our bucket list of trips so far. So if we are already in the vicinity, why should we not drive straight past and use the way back for a first visit?

In Butrint we cross over with a kind of raft that is pulled through the water by a chain drive. A bit adventurous.

After the much too short raft crossing, we bought the most delicious strawberries in the world from a street vendor and refueled at a very helpful Albanian, who gave us valuable tips. We should change money in restaurants rather than get cash at ATM machines, because they would charge a very bad exchange rate. Also, we should rather not drive up the coastal road as planned, but explore the inland and the mountains of Albania, as the coast would not represent the true Albania, but would be very touristy. Although we followed his advice regarding the money exchange, but unfortunately not the advice with the coastal road. We had a coffee and a latte in a street coffee of Ksamil and enjoyed the urban hustle and bustle around us before we went to the Musselhouse.

What awaited us here we had not guessed, it was a dreamlike place. We ordered white wine, fresh oysters and several varieties of moules. Never before had we received such creatively arranged oysters and never before had we been able to watch crab fights and schools of fish while eating mussels. The experience was rounded off by outstandingly good service and a nice and honest conversation with our waiter, who told us about the living conditions in Albania.

Everything that then waited for us between the Musselhouse and the campsite Kamping Pa Emer was worse than the gas station attendant let us fear. Although there were as hoped beautiful bays and beaches, but built with not exactly appealing hotel facilities and paved with sun loungers. Too bad coast of Albania, you could be so beautiful.

When we felt like we had reached the edge of the earth’s disk and briefly felt like we were in the back streets of Mombasa, we finally reached the campsite we were aiming for. Again, everyone was incredibly friendly and the site was natural and beautiful. Our campsite had its own beach access and the sea was so shallow for meters that it felt like you could wade through the warm water all the way to the horizon. Our highlight was the sunset over the restaurant of the campsite, which is accessible only via a long wooden walkway.

When the waiter asked us in the evening whether it was our first time in Albania and whether we would like it, I had to think briefly whether I was really telling him the truth and then I did: “The people are all very open-minded and friendly. Half of the coast is beautiful, great nature, the other half consists of the building sins of large hotel resorts and tourist strongholds.” He smirked and said that the coast was not necessarily a good representative of Albania. The true Albania would be found inland and in the mountains. We had heard that before.

He may well be right. But as much as we would have liked to visit Teth, Shkodra and the Komman on our own Albanian vacation: If you dear Albanians don’t manage to avoid at least one serious to fatal accident per hour due to your driving style, we won’t be coming back anytime soon. This is not a vacation for us. We can still laugh about farmers who drive goats or turkeys across the highway with a stick, but if, as a matter of course, despite oncoming traffic is deliberately swerved to overtake, then you can live it out without us.

Despite the adventurous to dangerous traffic behavior, we leave Albania, cross Bosnia and find our last campsite at Cape Karmenjak, near Premantura in Croatia. This is the site where our Croatia road trip along the Adriatic coast started in 2018. On the campsite Arena Stupice this travel report is created.

Our travel report “GREECE TRAVEL DOCUMENTARY | Offroad secrets along the coast: Pieria, Pelion, Damouchari, Fakistra, Trikeri” on Youtube

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Der Beitrag Offroading the coasts of Greece erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

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You can find the photo-blog here.

Der Beitrag Our first (semi-) professional video travelogue erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Slovenia is not particularly large, yet it is extremely varied. I can reach every part of the country by car after only a short drive. In many travel guides, 1 week is therefore recommended. But 7 days are not enough for Slovenia. You can easily plan 14 to 21 days to really experience the country and its hospitality.

On this trip, luck was on our side; whenever a plan didn’t work out, actual alternatives led us to the most beautiful places. Detours turned into highlights.

The North: Triglav National Park and the Kranjska Gora region

Our first port of call in Slovenia was to be Zelenki Nature Reserve.
After a short hike through the forest, we reached the reserve’s crystal-clear blue lakes.

At the bottom of the lake we see sand being stirred up at a spring. Again and again fish swim into our field of sight. But the bird life in this reserve is also impressive. I am not a bird expert, but the sounds reveal that there are a lot of feathered friends on the move here.

Towards evening we approach the Spik campsite. From here we have a breathtaking view of the mountain massif ahead, incl. the highest mountain “Spik”. What a rock formation! The campsite is the ideal starting point for the following activities in this region. In the evening we stop at the inn “Gostilna in picerija Jožica” and are delighted by the Slovenian cuisine for the first time.

Thus strengthened and well rested, we set off into the forest at 6:30 the next morning. Our destination is a large waterfall in the nearby mountain massif. Due to the early hour, we do not meet any other people on our partly adventurous, narrow and dangerous path. For the first time we notice how blue the water is here in Slovenia – even though there was heavy rainfall the night before.

The path to the waterfall leads over wooden paths, riverbeds, steep stairs and boulders. Not easy with two very active French bulldogs. Even though we were afraid at times that we would be hit by falling rocks or slip off the path, the climb to the waterfall was worth it. Just as we arrived, the sun came out and bathed the mountain, forest and water in a warm morning light.

Around noon we continue to Jasna Lake, which is also nearby. Again, clear blue water awaits us. So blue that you constantly feel the urge to go swimming or to drink something from it.

On one side of Lake Jasna we find restoration in the form of a bar and a small snack restaurant. The other sides of the lake are not covered with buildings, so we have a fantastic panorama of the lake and the mountains while we eat our burgers and drink a gin. A healthy amount of tourism-centricity in my eyes.

Lake Bled & Radovljica

We were a bit at war with Lake Bled. It all started with the fact that the camping site “Camping Bled“, directly on the lake, was fully booked. We found our pitch a little outside, at the “River Camping” campsite.

From here we took a taxi to the west side of the lake and walked eastwards along the lower side of the lake. The lake, the clear water, the island and the castle in the background are beautiful – no doubt about it. However, halfway we would have liked to stop somewhere for a glass of wine. But the gastronomic offer was limited. It was not until we reached the eastern side of Lake Bled that we stopped off at the quiet little “Caffe Peglez’n“.

The lake is quite busy, there is a lot of activity on the paths. Its surroundings feel like a “high society spot”. This is also noticeable in the hotels that have been set up and the traffic chaos at lunchtime. If you are looking for a quiet, natural lake for hiking and swimming, we think Lake Bohinj is a better choice.

Our taxi driver gave us a little insider tip, because she lives in Bled’s neighbouring municipality Radovljica. The old town welcomes visitors with small bars and a cute church quarter. We especially liked the ice cream parlour. What we didn’t like so much was a large swarm of bees that had taken up residence at the town hall, but also made the surrounding seating areas unsafe.

The church has a small hidden museum in an old bunker (the low door of which is a great place to bang your head).

Our local taxi driver recommended the inns “Kunstelj” and “Avguštin“. We stopped at the latter and once again enjoyed the Slovenian cuisine.

Vintgar Gorge

The Vintgar Gorge leads the visitor over boardwalks directly by the river through a beautiful gorge. Along the rushing river we admire the green vegetation and the bluish-green water. The Vintgar Gorge is a place for inner meditation, for pausing and admiring nature and a Mecca for photographers – at least as long as there are no crowds of visitors squeezing along the paths.

We got up early once again. The gorge opens at 7:30 a.m. and we were the first visitors. This way we had a lot of space, a lot of time for (deserted) photos and also enough room for our dogs. The blue water especially unfolds its effect on photos in a long exposure of 1/12s to 1/8s.

Two waterfalls await us at the end of the gorge. As the gorge is only a one-way street, the way back leads us around the outside of the mountain. Along the way we enjoy flowering mountain meadows, chapels and a fantastic view all the way to Lake Bled. All in all, you should allow about 3 to 4 hours for the entire route.

Lake Bohinj

Our taxi driver told us that Slovenians often prefer to go to Lake Bohinj for their bathing holidays rather than to the crowded Lake Bled. And so we also ended up in this great place. Shortly before 11:00 a.m. we arrived at the campsite “Camp Bohinj” – and that was our good fortune.

This campsite follows the “chaos principle” when it comes to allocating pitches. There are no fixed pitches, no reservations, you just find a suitable pitch. This is charming in terms of flexibility and visits without reservations, but it also has its downsides. Unfortunately, there are enough people without decency and education who take advantage of the flexible choice of space and park right in front of your door or in your field of vision without any consideration – also without any consideration for driving paths when leaving.

Greetings at this point to the young couple from Munich who squeezed their rented van between two campers parked directly on the lake (yes, between the green VW bus and the lake) and not only took away their view, but also their seat. That was unparalleled in audacity. Your Austrian neighbour said nobly that you lack sensitivity, I say you are selfish assholes.

To avoid such people, it’s better to make yourself a little “wider” on arrival: move out the furniture, extend the sunshade, park diagonally. That’s not the best way either, but unfortunately it seems to be necessary.

At the campsite there is a small restaurant, covered but open to the sides, with excellent pizzas and local craft beers. If you ask nicely, you can take the glasses and bottles down to the lake or to the campsite. The next day we hired a wooden rowboat to take us to the other side of the lake. Here we found a lovely little bay with warm water, colourful fish life and an ideal swimming spot.

Soča Valley and Kobarid

There are days when you wonder why you didn’t just drive to the hotel. This was one of them. With a length of 7.50 m and a weight of 4.6 tonnes, mountain passes are not much fun anyway, or even cause sweating. Add to that roads that are too narrow, oncoming traffic and no possibilities to evade, and it just becomes even more exhausting. We completed the 68km route from Bohinj to Tolmin in about 4.5 hours with 5 breaks to cool down the brakes. By car, the route takes no more than half that time.

When we arrived in Tolmin, we found that only very remote campsites were still available and there were no taxi companies or suitable bus connections to the nearest sights. As “Plan B” we chose a campsite near Kobarid and the difficult journey was finally rewarded with this jewel of a campsite: With the “Kamp Lazar” we found one of the most beautiful places on our route. Situated directly on the beautiful Soča, the site impressed us with its restaurant, among other things. The site and restaurant terrace are laid out like a ranch. For dinner, a campfire is lit outside, accompanied by the softest and best pork ribs I have ever tasted. Everything here was done with love: the reception, the pitch, the food and also the conversation with the owner Edi. Under this link you can read in the yellow box why he built the campsite Lazar the way he did and what dream he realised with it.

Camp Lazar is an ideal place to start hiking along the Soča. We find real primeval forests, old trees, abandoned farmhouses and old stables. Some of the hiking trails, however, turn out to be a challenge for man and dog that should not be underestimated.

Not far from the camp there is another gorge, at the end of which a magnificent, light-flooded waterfall awaits the visitor in an underground limestone cave. Here at the “Kozjak Fall“, you once again feel the urge to go into this wonderful water or to drink from the streams.

A greeting at this point to Susanne and Maik from the blog “Maggy-on-Tour“, whom we had the pleasure to meet in Kamp Lazar. Your stories, your blog and your travel recommendations have inspired us with regard to future travel destinations and our future way of travelling. We had great evenings with you in the restaurant and around the campfire. We wish you all the best for your travels!

Along the Soča to the coast

We first follow the Soča through its valley and reach the picturesque town of “Kanal ob Soči“.
We start the day in a small street café by the village fountain. Because everything here is so wonderfully uncomplicated. The waitress recommended that we buy pastries to go with our coffee at the bakery next door, and we could eat them at her table. While we drink our very good coffee and eat our pastries, the city comes to life. It is Sunday, the sun’s rays are getting warmer, the church bells are ringing. People come out of their houses and chat in the streets. Life is beautiful.

After our morning visit to “Kanal ob Soči” we travel further south to Solkan. Here the largest cantilever stone arch bridge in the world awaits us, over which the Bohinj railway line runs between Jesenice and Gorica: The Solkan Bridge. It was nice to see it, but we weren’t blown away by the bridge – but that may have been due to the hot temperatures. Instead, we stopped at the restaurant “Ošterija Žogica” at the foot of the bridge and had a great afternoon there.

Arriving at the coast near Izola and Porto Roz, we found out that the only 50km long Slovenian coastline is extremely crowded in July and August. There were no free campsites, and parking spaces for the large camper van were scarce. Party people everywhere. After a short search, we found out that the ratings of the (expensive) campsites on the coast were also rather poor: Users reported on drunken brawlers and the very last thing we need on holiday is a party feeling like on Mallorca’s Ballermann beach.

But once again, it is alternative planning that leads us to the real treasures. In the newly discovered app “Camp4Night” we became aware of the pitches at Robivera. The owner Robert runs a winery and a kind of self-catering farm with olive plantation and animals here with his family. This farm is also marketed as a tourist farm with a restaurant.

This evening was to be the highlight of our culinary trip to Slovenia and at the same time an experience of hospitality that will certainly remain unparalleled in our lives for a long time to come.

At noon I had already phoned to ask if there was still a pitch available for us. A young female voice answered in perfect English. After our arrival, I went to the main courtyard, because I had to register somewhere. But I didn’t find the right door straight away and didn’t want to barge in impetuously. Then Robert saw me and came towards me. In quite good German he explained to me that we should first arrive and settle ourselves. We should connect our electricity and take in water if necessary. He would join us in a moment, at the moment there was still a closed party for dinner. We used the time to shower and change in the camper van, then there was a knock. Robert and his daughter were standing at our door with a smile. We could come for dinner now, because the big party had left.

We took our seats at one of the three large wooden tables on the veranda. The table was laid with a fresh white tablecloth. Robert and daughter explained that there was no menu, only seasonal food from their own production and of course their own wines.

The salads tasted like grandma used to make in the garden, the tomatoes had an intense, sweet flavour, the meat of the main course was a dream. But the highlight was the starter: Home-made ham on home-made bread and grilled aubergine with olive oil. Michelle actually hates fat in ham or meat. But I swear to God, the fat in this ham was buttery and tasted like heaven. Even Michelle didn’t leave a shred of it.

Through the olive trees flooded with golden light, we watched the sun sink into the sea at the coast.

Around quarter past nine, Robert and his daughter came to our table again. They would soon be closing up and going home and offered to bring us drinks again. When they left, the two of them brought candles to our table so that we would still have a nice time. What a nice gesture. We should just leave the glasses and bottles – just put out the candles.

Then the next morning we got a tour of the wine and ham cellar, bought wines, olive oil and homemade schnapps. Robert gave us a book about the small town and a preserved sauce. Afterwards, we took a short walk through the vineyards.

The mountain town of Štanjel

North of the coastal strip is a wine region around the former fortress town of “Štanjel”. The town with its small romantic alleys reminds us of Mont-Saint-Michel in France, but without the mass tourism and cheap, flashing Chinese souvenirs.

With almost 30 degrees in the shade, the climb up the mountain to the castle ruins is quite exhausting. Reason enough to stop at the restaurant “Grad Štanjel” and taste the sparkling wine “Tera”, which is typical for the region. The vine of this special wine grows only on the special red soil of this region. Especially well chilled, it is a great refreshment.

Camping on the farm – Milky Way included

With only 5 other campers and one tent, we spent the night on a rural farm, the “Tekavča Ograda Farm“. Our motorhome stands in the middle of a flowering meadow, chickens run around the car, bees buzz everywhere on the flowers of the meadows. In the evening there is a campfire. That’s right. A campfire at a campsite. Do that on a german North Sea campsite, you’ll be stoned to death.

While we were winding down the evening with Slovenian wine and pickled olives, I had the idea that the old barn would make a great subject for startrail or Milky Way photography – especially since the sky was cloudless. After a short study of the astro-planner in my “Photo Pills” app, a bull’s eye revealed itself: the Milky Way was to become visible directly above the barn at around 4:40 in the morning. I set my alarm clock and prepared my camera and tripod the night before.

Then at 4:20 the alarm clock rang. I got dressed quietly, took a few steps in front of the camper and started setting up and taking the first photos. I felt my way until the result was more or less what I expected. Now I just had to wait until the Milky Way “stood” perfectly above the barn. In the meantime, I watched as thick wisps of mist floated out of the forest across the fields in the distance. It was wonderfully quiet all around and I felt the morning dew on my skin.

Natural bridges and cave of Rakov Škocjan

Near Rakek we visited the naturally formed stone bridges and a cave in Rakov Škocjan National Park. In August, the river carries little to no water visible on the surface. But when we look at the caves and passages washed into the massive rocks, we can imagine how the river flows here at other times of the year or must have raged many thousands of years ago.

The approach is again somewhat challenging. We reach the car park via partly narrow gravel roads and start our hike. The hiking trails here are poorly signposted, again and again we stray from the right path. On our tour we come to a cave entrance from which you can descend into the Weaver Cave. Warning signs inform that the cave is not part of the official nature trails and that you descend at your own risk.

Sometimes one is careless. Too careless, and so I descend into the cave, hunting for memories and photo opportunities. After 10 metres, the steps end. Scree and steel ropes to hold on to follow. I continue to descend until I finally arrive at a kind of scree ramp that leads deeper into the cave. I start to have doubts about whether it is really worth continuing the descent, but then I try it and involuntarily slide down the scree to the cave floor. Now I was at the bottom. I take some photos, let the drone go up, wonder about a candle burning in the cave and start the ascent. In vain. Three times I slip down again in the scree field. The camera is damaged, I scrape my knees, my hands are hurt. When I reach the bottom again, I look for a big stick. With it I manage to half-crawl my way back up to the stairs. I hadn’t thought it would be like this. Drenched in sweat and exhausted, I survived this adventure. Don’t take this cave lightly!

At some point, in the absence of signposting, we simply follow the road to the highest point of the hiking area, where an old church ruin and its amphibious inhabitants await us. But we wonder where these stone bridges are supposed to be. Only after studying the map on the smartphone do we realise that we are in fact standing on the wide arch of the bridge and have to descend into the valley to see it.

Camping and Bar at “Big Berry”

We wished we had had one more day, then we would have stayed another night here to participate in the night and bar life. It was only when we paid in the morning that we found out that “Big Berry” also has a small beach and a bar in addition to a wonderful view and a river running directly in front of the car.

The site was originally built as a model site for wooden holiday homes and only then was the camping business expanded. To this day, visitors can also rent glamping holiday homes and then visit the bar or the rooftop bar of the main house in the evening while listening to lounge music. Our visit to the bar was only enough for a coffee and a bit of pastry for breakfast due to lack of time.

“Izvir reke Krupe” Waterfall and Lake

At Semič we admire another spring, the resulting river and the surrounding hiking area “Izvir reke Krupe“.

A spring rises under a rock face. The emerging water is dammed to form a small, blue lake and then flows off via smaller basins until it becomes a stately river.

Suspension bridges lead the hiking trail across the river. We discover little wonder worlds of water fern under the river surface. At one point we admire the unfinished work of a beaver – a little more nibbling, then the tree falls, little rodent friend.

The Žalec Beer Fountain

On our way north, we stop in the small town of Žalec.
Admittedly, the town is not particularly worth seeing, apart from the old town and the local beer fountain. We spend the night on one of 4 camper van pitches on a large car park between a hotel and a sports field. The site is not pretty, but the overnight stay is free, even with electricity and supply and disposal. So they are doing something for tourism and seem to know that a beer fountain is only attractive if visitors can also spend the night close by.

First we stop at the Kolodvor pub. We (actually rather our French bulldogs) quickly make friends with the wait staff. They serve super tasty calamari and burgers. Then it’s on to the beer fountain.

The beer fountain is a delicious attraction. We buy two beer mugs with 6 fillings each. With these mugs, we can now tap a beer 6 times each. The whole thing is controlled via an NFC chip stored in the jug.

There is a choice of 6 different local craft beers. One that is reminiscent of an apple juice due to its cloudiness and taste, a craft beer with hemp addition but also more classic beers like dark or India Pale Ales.

The beer fountain is centrally located and surrounded by a well-kept park with old trees. We find a seat in the beach furniture set up there, watch the colourful hustle and bustle at the fountain and sit in the middle of a green oasis in this otherwise rather grey, small city. We would come back any time.

The Jeruzalem wine region

Tourists get their money’s worth in the Jeruzalem wine region. There are inns, wineries with flats, tours through vineyards and much more. The sunsets bathe the vineyards in a warm, soft light.

For lunch we enjoy a small cheese platter and local vegetables at the restaurant “Vinski hram Brenholc Jeruzalem“. The view from our table is breathtaking, the cheeses stunning. I am not a fan of the exponential use of superlatives, but here I have to use them deliberately to make clear how good this meal tasted.

Once again, we have to thank the “Park4Night” app for this evening’s pitch. The winery “Vinska Klet Puklavec” offers four camper pitches right next to the main house. Great view over the vineyards, great food in the evening. We take it easy, lie down in the deckchairs provided, edit the first photos, drink local Šipon and Muskat Ottonel.

Here we learn why the vegetables taste so good: There are no imported products here. Restaurants are required by law to buy and use local produce. This ensures that it is worthwhile for local farmers to offer high-quality goods. As a true advocate of the free market economy, I unfortunately have to admit that the market obviously doesn’t regulate everything on its own. German supermarket tomatoes simply cannot compete.

From Maribor back via the Herzerl road

At the end of our trip we visited Maribor. The city attracts with an old town and a large bar and pub scene. In addition to the spruced-up corners of the city, there is also the dirty, somewhat dodgy Maribor. The visit reminds us of Prague, and we can imagine that these not-so-chic corners can certainly unfold their charm in the nightlife at dusk. It’s just that with temperatures of over 30 degrees in the small streets, we don’t really want to get into the evening mood.

A small café that we really wanted to visit seems not to have survived the Corona pandemic. Instead, we drink a last Slovenian Šipon by the Drava, but then flee from the wasps, which for some reason like to fly behind my glasses and at my eyes.

Our last stop in Slovenia is the Herzerl road. This lies directly on the Slovenian-Austrian border. A road through a vineyard forms – viewed from the right angle – a heart on the Slovenian side of the border.

It’s a nice picture to end with this blog, because we fell in love with Slovenia: with the people, the hospitality, the down-to-earth way of life and the nature. Slovenia, we will be back. For sure. Maybe with a smaller vehicle, maybe with a Defender with a roof tent.

Here is our travel report on Youtube!

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Our photography equipment

Our photos and videos were taken with the following cameras, lenses and accessories.

Nikon Z6II mirrorless full-frame camera (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 2.8 (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 20mm 1.8 S (*)

Lens Nikon Nikkor Z 24-200mm 1:4.0-6.3 VR (*)

Photo editing on iPad Pro with Adobe Creative Cloud Photo Subscription with Lightroom (*)

Travel tripod Rollei Compact Traveller No. 1 Carbon (*)

Camera support system Peak Design Capture Clip (*)

* All links marked with an asterisk are Amazon affiliate links.

Der Beitrag Camper van road trip through Slovenia: Real insider tips erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Variety to the overnight stay in a vacation home

In Denmark, vacation homes are probably the most popular type of accommodation for tourists. Nevertheless, a little variety can’t hurt. A trip with the eBike or a hike with overnight stay in the open Shelter hut brings a proper portion of adventure into the vacation.

Also the vacation can be extended easily by one or two days, as most vacation houses can only be booked weekly starting from Saturday or on Fridays.

An overview of all shelter places and huts can be found here.

Der Beitrag Overnight stay in the Shelter Cabin at Ringkobing Fjord erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

But what is the most reliable way to back up the files from the SD cards on the way?

Small, lightweight helper for fast data backup

We found our solution to this problem in the WD My Passport Wireless Pro 4TB.

The external hard drive can copy files from SD cards via an integrated SD card reader. All it takes is the touch of a button. In addition, the external hard drive can also accept files via wireless connection, which we simply don’t use ourselves. This is because, in my opinion, no data transfer is as fast and secure as via high-speed USB 3.0 connection or directly via integrated card reader.

With dimensions of 12.6 x 12.6 x 2.4 cm and a weight of 450 gr. it fits well into our travel backpacks. The device is about the size of a Discman, so it doesn’t take up too much space in your luggage.

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• Kabelloser Zugriff auf Dateien mit mehreren Geräten gleichzeitig
• Sichern oder Übertragen Sie Fotos und Videos von Ihrer SD-Karte

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Backup even in the jungle without electricity

The special thing about this external backup solution is the integrated 6,400 mAh battery, which allows us to copy files to the hard disk for up to 10 hours. This enables us to make backup copies of our drone recordings and photos even after days without power supply, thus creating space on our SD cards again.

The integrated battery is, despite the sufficient runtime, still small enough to be taken on board by any airline without any problems and does not add unnecessary weight to our backpacks in our luggage.

Quick backup of the SD card (with a little practice)

The device has two rectangular buttons. While the first button turns the hard disk on and off, the second button controls the copy process from the SD card. If we press the SD card button long, the contents of the memory card are copied to the hard disk.

Depending on how the hard disk was previously configured, either the complete contents of the SD card will be transferred to a new folder on the hard disk 1-to-1, or alternatively only those files will be copied that have been newly added to the SD card since the last backup. This differential transfer mode sounds good at first, but there are some dangers.

If files are transferred from several SD cards from different devices, the backup logic can get confused and possibly not backup data because a similar file with the same name has already been backed up.

Thus, those who back up their SD card to the hard disk and then format the memory card run the risk that the next backup process will not back up the photos created after formatting, as the numbering of the photos might start from zero again.

Some similar experiences of other users can be read in this thread: https://community.wd.com/t/backup-of-multiple-cards-creates-a-mess/216040/25

For this reason the differential transmission is not acceptable for us. We back up the complete contents of our SD cards to a new folder every day. This way the external disk does not get mixed up with the SD cards from two DSLRs and the video drone.

Due to the use of the 1-to-1 copy mode, we naturally use more memory than actually necessary, which is why it only makes sense for us to use the 4TB variant. In order not to run out of memory too quickly, we delete any duplicates manually from the hard disk via iPhone app.

No matter which way we choose, once the data transfer has been initiated, the four status LEDs on the upper side show the progress of the copy process.

Dust and waterproof – if you put it in a plastic bag

The only drawback of the “WD My Passport Wireless Pro 4TB” is the lack of protection against water and dust, which would be of interest during a backpacking trip in tropical climates. As a workaround, we simply pack the hard disk in a sealable plastic bag, as it is also used for liquids in hand luggage. Problem solved.

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Another option, but more expensive: Gnarbox

The GNARBOX 2.0 SSD is a robust backup device for professional users who need a reliable way to back up their files on site. Unlike other storage solutions, it is able to manage files without a laptop thanks to its compact design and powerful integrated backup functions.

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• USB-C-Übertragung 350 MB/s & SD-Backup 75 MB/s

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With an internal SSD with up to 1 TB storage capacity, one SD slot, two USB-C ports, the GNARBOX saves time and is a reliable companion.

Link to Gnarbox (Amazon Affiliate Link)

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Copy and back up photos and videos from SD card as a backpacker without a notebook erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Restrictions due to low season and only on the surface campervan-friendly

This blog post almost didn’t exist. Although Brittany and Normandy offer breathtaking landscapes and an excellent cuisine, our daily travels sometimes presented us with various challenges, not to mention disappointments. In the meantime, in particularly frustrating moments, we said several times: “No, we don’t advertise these regions in the form of a travelblog”.

Several times we had the feeling that the travelled regions only wanted to be attractive for tourists during the absolute peak season, namely the French holiday season in July. Too often at the end of June we stood in front of closed restaurants, camping sites or even in almost extinct cities. At the Rosagranit coast in Ploumanach we wanted, like many other tourists, to have dinner in the evening, but in the whole village there were only two open restaurants, all completely occupied and fully booked. All other restaurants were still closed. There would have been enough guests. One could think to have found out slightly sarcastically why France has to struggle with such a high (youth) unemployment: Probably because nobody works – except in July. For a region that is ambitious in terms of tourism, this is poor.

For motorhome travellers there is another serious point of frustration: parking motorhomes in public parking lots is almost impossible. Height-limiting beams prevent motorhomes from entering almost all central car parks. Presumably so that motorhome owners are more likely to drive to the local campsites. This in itself is an approach that we can understand against the economic background, but which only makes sense if the campsites are actually open. Small consolation: There are a lot of motorhome sites with supply and disposal. Unfortunately, these are often located far outside the villages. Due to the lack of alternatives, we often had to park on camper sites and often had to pay for whole overnight stays, although we only spent a few hours on site. In our eyes this country is therefore only superficial.

If one would simply pronounce overnight bans on parking lots instead of height barriers, the visit of some places would be less complicated and more pleasant.

Now that we got rid of our frustration right at the beginning of this article, we can leave out the beautiful things like cuisine, culture and nature in the rest of the blog entry.
Have fun with our photos and tips!

1. Day: Porta Westfalica – Dunkerque

Dunkerque is to become the starting point of our journey. At 7:30 am we leave Porta Westfalica and make a stopover in Mühlheim an der Ruhr. Here we get the so-called ACSI card from a camping outfitter close to the motorway, with which we expect discounts at various camping sites in the low season. At the end of our holiday the 26€ Campingcard has earned us a discount of one (in numbers “1”) Euro – in our case a complete failure.

Our dog Trüffel spends the trip in the foot space of the co-driver, it is the first time motorhome with dog. We are curious what awaits us. Around 15:15 o’clock we reach the parking lot in Dunkirk.

Mirrored bunker at the beach of Dunkerque  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

From the dunes in front of the campsite we see something silver on the horizon shining in the sun. Looks like a huge cuboid wrapped in aluminium foil. As we get closer, we realize that it is a bunker completely covered with mirror shards from the Second World War.

Michelle’s mirror image in the shards glued to the bunker – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

A kind of art project from the year 2016: the broken fragments of mirrors, in which the face of each observer is reflected, offer infinite space for interpretation.

Remains of bunkers from the Second World War – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

A few 100 metres away are the other bunkers. Not as grey as they used to be, some only covered with graffiti, others transformed into real works of art by graffiti. We do know the bunkers on Denmark’s west coast, but we haven’t seen such a bunker village as here yet. The complex here consists of several buildings with catacomb-like accommodations and guard buildings.

Graffiti with historical reference at one of the bunker remains – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Admittedly, it feels oppressive and wrong to take German photos of the bunkers. Nobody should think that we like what happened here just because we take pictures of it. Only a few days ago the D-Day remembrance celebrations took place here. During the storm on these bunkers probably countless people lost their lives. This must never happen again on European ground.

Bath cabins on the beach of Dunkerque in front of a threatening rain front – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Towards evening we head west, into the city centre of Dunkirk. We stroll along the front row of beaches, past the bathing huts to the restaurant “Face à la mer”. The French cuisine welcomes us with mussels in garlic cream and white wine stock and the weather with a warm light in a threatening, dark cloud scenery.

Daniel was in France for the last time in 2005. At that time nobody spoke English, especially not by himself. Today we were addressed several times directly in English, when the locals noticed that we were not completely capable of the national language. A development that in itself was accommodating. In a bar we were even addressed in perfect German. Crazy world. Should that be the case everywhere now? Yes.

2. Day: Dunkerque – Cap Blanc-Nez – Stella Plage – Dieppe

The day begins with an instant coffee in the motorhome. It doesn’t taste like freshly ground coffee, but it’s a tradition, for us it’s just part of it. We set off for a short detour to “Cap Blanc-Nez”, a stretch of coast on France’s chalk cliff coast. In good weather one should be able to recognize the war rocks in front of Dover. Today this is not so. In the foggy air above the English Channel the visibility is very limited. We walk a little around the Cap Blanc-Nez and once again we notice the traces of the war. The hills around the Cap are dotted with bomb funnels, which can still be seen today. No wonder, because the Germans had installed a casemate facility here, which was able to shoot tons of projectiles into the cities at England’s south coast.

Chalk cliffs at Cap Blanc-Nez – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

In advance we had read a blog that recommended a free parking space in Stella Plage. Directly behind the dunes one can park here with the camper van and reach the wide beach in only a few minutes on foot. This should be great especially for dog owners to be able to let the four-legged friend walk without a leash. The blog was right about the parking place and the beach, but Stella Plage is a ghost town. The city planned on the drawing board was almost deserted, half decayed restaurants and bars as far as the eye could see. We dare to doubt if this looks different in the high season.

This is what Stella Plage looks like and Macron is probably to blame for it. Uh-huh. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

After an extensive walk along the beach we return to the camper site and decide to continue our journey towards Dieppe. The afternoon is still young and we also want to have dinner somewhere in civilisation tonight. Stella Plage is almost scary, there are definitely more beautiful places.

Our dog ” Trüffel ” has fun at the wide beach of Stella Plage – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

3. Day: Dieppe – Étretat – Phare D’Antifer – Honfleur

Our plan from the previous day was only partly successful. In Dieppe we stopped at a fish restaurant the evening before and ate the first seafood platter we had longed for. Unfortunately it was very expensive, but not very good. The crabs had probably died of old age. At least we stopped at a small bar afterwards, that was a nice conclusion. The mobile home parking place in Dieppe is basically a better parking place and therefore not worth mentioning. The only advantage is that one gets quickly to the city.

Thus, before we leave in the morning, we buy some fresh pastries and fruit for the way and then we start our way to Étretat.

Michelle on the rocks of Étretat, in the background the famous rock arch – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Ètretat is definitely worth a visit, especially for those who like to take photos. The chalk cliffs and the famous arch are excellent motifs. There is only one thing you should not do here, and that is to rely on Google Maps navigation if you want to follow the route on foot to the rocks. We walk up a mountain for three quarters of an hour and then realize that the navigation app wants to guide us over a fenced golf course. Well, that’s how Daniel comes to do some sport.

The northern chalk cliffs of Étretat  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 90 seconds

The southern chalk cliffs of Étretat  – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 90 seconds

We’re heading for Honfleur from Étretat. Here a beautiful harbour town with old houses, romantic alleys and good restaurants awaits us. If only it weren’t for the search for a suitable pitch for the night. There are about 300 motorhomes parked on the designated motorhome site, the site is packed, no chance. As an emergency solution we want to drive to another local campsite, which can only be reached by a particularly narrow lane.

When Daniel narrowly escaped a nervous break due to the narrow street, we notice that also the camping site is completely occupied. Another campsite, a little further outside has already closed, and so we search on satellite pictures at Google Maps for suitable sites. Finally we find what we are looking for. There are already 15 other motorhomes on a parking lot that is used by buses. The place is free, we stand directly at the water, definitely better than the official and overcrowded place.

The port of Honfleur at the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max.120 seconds

After an extensive dinner in the “Le Bistro du Port” our mood gets better again. The day has been quite a good one for us, especially the frustration with the pitches in between. The blue hour rewards our efforts with beautiful views in the historic old town of Honfleur and all the trouble is forgotten.

View into the romantic back streets of Honfleur – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

4. Day: Honfleur – Nez de Jobourg

In order to get to the Nez de Jobourg, roads and car dimensions present us with some new challenges. Sweat-bathed we finally reach our free parking space again with a view of the lighthouse.

View from the cliffs at Nez de Jobourg – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

We walk over the cliffs, Daniel climbs down the steep rocks to take pictures. If we hadn’t bought something for the barbecue, we would probably have stopped for dinner at the “Auberge des Grottes”, a cute restaurant with friendly and cordial service, where we stopped for a beer after our hike.

This is a great view from our pitch at the Cap de Jobourg: In the distance the lighthouse lights up at night. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

5. Day: Nez de Jobourg – Mont St. Michel – Cancale

For those who want to watch Japanese tourists squeezing their way through supposedly romantic old town alleys on holiday and buy soft ice cream or plastic souvenirs made in China in the light of flickering LED advertisements, Mont St. Michel is a real must-see. If you don’t belong to this group, stay away. Take a look at the following pictures and imagine small, almost deserted alleys in the romantic lantern light. It doesn’t get any better than in your imagination.

View on Mont St. Michel – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

This picture of Mont St. Michel is a lie: It looks deserted, but it is only because of the long exposure. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

After the overcrowded Mont St. Michel we continue to Cancale, the oyster capital of France. We quickly find a camper van site near Cancale, from here we reach the restaurant “Au Pied d’Cheval” in only 15 minutes on foot. With warm service we sit outside in the sunshine and drink Chardonnay to the best seafood platter of all times. What a cute restaurant with a great outdoor terrace. But the name of the restaurant comes from the tool used to open the oysters: a mixture of horseshoe and crowbar is used to crack the oysters – an ingenious construction that also seems to work: We do not find any shell pieces in our oysters.

The best seafood plate of the holiday in Cancale – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

6. Day: Cancale – Rothéneuf – St. Malo

The beach of Rothéneuf was actually on our list as a possible pitch. But since we were here early in the morning, we only visited this place without an overnight stay. Instead we munched our breakfast from a bakery near Cancale. During the morning walk we took the following pictures.

Dried algae on the beach of Rothéneuf – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Low tide at the beach of Rothéneuf – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

Our pitch in St. Malo is far outside. The way to the city centre is not necessarily nice, one walks past the ferry terminals and the freight harbour. Also otherwise St. Malo has not necessarily hit us from the stool. The city is strongly influenced by tourism, with all the disadvantages that this entails: expensive food of bad quality, overcrowded places, garbage. Only at the north side of the city walls ending in the water we take a long time picture of the surf, drink a cider and then go back to the camper van. St. Malo – you can do that, but you don’t have to.

Waves at the walls of St. Malo – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 20 seconds

7. Day: St. Malo – Dinan – Fort La Latte – Cap Fréhel

Dinan actually consists of two parts: The upper old town and the small harbour “Port de Dinan”. Both districts knock us down, whereby we like the harbour area much more than the upper oldtown. We have lunch, the sun shines, which is a nice day. Those who like can spend the night in a camper van very close to the “Port de Dinan”. Today, we only use this parking place for parking (and actually we don’t have to pay for the whole night).

Port de Dinan – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

We continue to one of the most famous and impressive caps of the French Atlantic coast, the “Cap Fréhel”. Here, too, Daniel spares no effort and danger for the perfect cliff photo. Michelle can’t watch it at all, nor can truffles. But the difficult descent is worth it, great pictures are taken.

View from the cliffs of the Cap Fréhel – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

You can’t hear anything down on the cliffs where Daniel takes the pictures. No tourists, no cars, only the dull waves on the rough cliffs, the seabirds and the wind. It may sound artificial and hackneyed, but such moments are rare in life. This rocky promontory has something meditative and calming that we have never experienced before. Nothing else is important down here, just the moment – and perhaps to watch where you step.

Cap Fréhel and its lighthouse – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-time exposures of max. 30 seconds

8. Day: Cap Frehel – Abbaye de Beauport – Plougrescant – Ploumanach

On our way to Plougrescant we pass the “Abbaye de Beauport” and visit it. A ruined church that was reconquered by nature. Unfortunately the Abbaye has closed and we can only admire it from the outside and through fences.

The Abbaye de Beauport – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Let us come to a highlight of the trip, that is the coast at Plougrescant. Here stands the famous “house between the rocks”. But this place has even more to offer. This coastal section appears almost unreal with its different landscapes that are so close to each other. While we look in one direction into a kind of rock desert, we look in the opposite direction into a green meadow landscape and feel reminded of the hobbit empire of Lord of the Rings.

The “House between the rocks” in Plougrescant – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

As in the Shire: Landscape on the opposite side of the “House between the rocks” – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

The weather today is mixed. The sun is not shining, grey clouds are hanging in the sky, in between it is drizzling. And that’s a good thing, because the weather suits this landscape. In between the sun shines through the clouds and plunges individual areas of nature into a golden light, which is typical for us in Brittany. It doesn’t bother us that we often wear a rain parka, somehow it feels as if it has to be like this.

Rocky landscape like on another planet in Plougrescant – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Typical Brittany: The sun shines through the clouds and bathes the landscape in a unique light. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Towards evening we reach our present pitch, a campsite on the Rosa Granit coast near Ploumanach. For dinner we want to go to the city and according to the woman at the campsite reception, it is only a 30 minute walk to the campsite. So we set off. It follows the most beautiful walk for a long time.

On the way to the lighthouse of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The Pink Granite Coast near Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Lighthouse of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

As beautiful as the walk is, if you take a lot of photos, you won’t make it in 30 minutes. After 1 1/2 hours we reach the city. This is one of those sobering evenings. Of 12 restaurants, only two are open, but they are completely occupied and overcrowded. Also other tourists desperately look for a table in the restaurants. Too bad. Potential wasted in our eyes. On this evening there is spaghetti with sauce in the motorhome.

Old chapel on the coastline of Ploumanach – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

9. Day: Ploumanach – Roscoff

Today it’s all about Roscoff. First we visit the botanical garden. A non-profit association manages here with much love and work a large area, which is in no way inferior to the famous gardens in the south of England. A visit is worthwhile in any case.

Cactus pavilion in the botanical garden of Roscoff – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Also today we stand on a free parking lot south-west of the city centre of Roscoff. On foot we go inland, eat crépes, drink cider and visit the fishing port. Only in the evening we notice that our pitch is directly in front of an abandoned “ghost castle” with a terrible history.

Nothing goes on here: Ebb tide in Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

View over the garden fence in Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Daniel waits longingly for his crepe in Roscoff, after all the cider is already there. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Fishing boats are waiting for the tide in the port of Roscoff – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

10. Day: Roscoff – Mont’s D’arrée – Huelgoat

Today’s tour takes us inland. At the highest mountain of Northern France we visit the small mountain chapel “Mont Saint-Michel de Brasparts”. The climb up here was worth it, the view is breathtaking.

The old mountain chapel on Mont D’arré – Nikon D500, Samyang 8mm Fisheye | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

Fish-Eye photo inside the mountain chapel at the Mont D’arré – Nikon D500, Samyang 8mm Fisheye | HDR-Composition of 9 individual shots

On the altar of the mountain chapel travellers from all over the world have placed small souvenirs and presents. On handwritten notes on the altar the visitors ask for the fulfilment of their wishes, health, peace, justice. Let us hope that the wishes will come true.

The altar of the mountain chapel at the Mont D’arré – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Arriving in Huelgoat, we set off for the forest. In a gorge, huge, roundish stones, like shaped by a giant, await us, which are washed around or under by watercourses every now and then. Along the old water mill we make our way deeper into the forest.

Long-term exposure of the old water mill in Huelgoat – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We make our way deeper into the forest of Huelgoat and squeeze ourselves through the narrow rocks – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Daniel explores the rocks in the forest of Huelgoat – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

If you have seen enough rocks, you can end your trip with a cute creperie in the forest. A hearty “Galette” or a sweet “Crépes” as well as a cider will help you to process your impressions.

11. Day: Huelgoat – Le Phare Petit Minou – Roscanvel – Camaret sur mer

Today is the day when you could go on a beach holiday. The bay at the Phare Petit Minou and the sunny weather invite inevitably to it. Unfortunately, there is still a longer tour on our list, which is why we skip the part about bathing.

A sunny day at Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

The lighthouse Phare Petit Minou seen from its bay – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

A sunny day at Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

View of the Strait in front of Phare Petit Minou – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Next stop on our tour is Roscanvel with the “Îlot des Capucins”, on the Crozon Peninsula. On the Crozon Peninsula you really seem to hate motorhomes. Parking is forbidden almost everywhere, but campsites do not open until July. Thanks for nothing.

Daniel on a cliff ledge of the cliffs of Roscanvel – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

The strategic fort “Fort des Capucins” was built in 1848. With its artillery batteries, it controlled access to the Strait of Brest. During the Second World War, the island and its buildings were severely damaged by Allied bombing after German occupation. The island is not touristically developed, the access is officially forbidden, but not impossible. Those who want to venture down the narrow rock stairs should wear sturdy shoes and have no fear of heights. Neither the descent nor the stay on the island is completely harmless.

Descent to “Îlot des Capucins” – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

On the old bridge to the island “Îlot des Capucins” you can see Daniel – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM

This place is creepy. This is partly due to the eventful history of this island, its “Lost Places” character, partly due to the creepy Grafittis and the uncanny silence down here. Inevitably you have to imagine what the life of the soldiers down here must have been like. How did the people here live in everyday life? Did the stationed people long for their wives and families? Were they afraid? How long did the occupying forces know that the Allies were on their way to them? These questions contribute to the fact that a stay on the “Îlot des Capucins” feels queasy and oppressive.

The ruins on the “Îlot des Capucins” were conquered by flora and fauna – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Some ruins of the der “Îlot des Capucins” were decorated with partly creepy Grafittis– Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

In the evening we stand on a campsite in Camaret sur mer. In the small village we find great restaurants, bars, the harbour church and a ship cemetery. We can only recommend this place to every traveller.

The ship cemetery of Camaret sur mer – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

The old ship is tired – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Highlight of Camaret sur mer for us is the bar “Rhumerie”. Here there are not only various Breton beers and handmade coctails, but also various kinds of rum, refined by ingredients such as caramel, almonds, etc. wait for the guest. Rarely do you experience that restaurateurs do their job with so much joy, dedication and cordiality as here. We are thrilled.

In the “Rhumerie” of Camaret sur mer the day comes to an end – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

12. Day: Camaret sur mer – Locronan

Before we leave Camaret sur mer for good, we visit the stone circle and the ruins of the house “Manoir De Coecilian” of the writer and poet Saint-Pol-Roux.

Stone circles in Camaret sur Mer  – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Ruins of the Manoir De Coecilian house of the writer and poet Saint-Pol-Roux in Camaret sur mer – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

“Manoir De Coecilian” was once a pretty estate of the poet Saint-Pol-Roux near the coast. The house has a turbulent history behind it: on the night of 24 June 1940, a soldier of the German Wehrmacht attacked the house, killed his housekeeper and injured his daughter Divine. On 3 October the estate was plundered and many manuscripts destroyed. On 18 October 1940, Saint-Pol-Roux died in Brest. In 1944, the estate was bombed and destroyed by the Allies, a large part of the manuscripts remained missing.

Painting on the remains of the “Manoir De Coecilian” in Camaret sur mer – Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

Around noon we reach our campsite in Locronan, one of the most beautiful villages in France. Here we meet the friendliest campsite operator in the world and indulge in culinary delights. We not only buy fine Breton caramel and chocolate products, but also eat in the Michelin restaurant “Ar Maen Hir” – an absolute must-have during a visit to Locronan.

A wide selection of Breton chocolate and caramel in Locronan – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

13. Day: Locronan – Concarneaux – Pont-Aven – St. Cado

With a stopover in Pont-Aven we continue our journey. The small town, with its innumerable artists’ studios, has become a tourist magnet. Unfortunately, because one notices this at overcrowded sidewalks, restaurants and the hectic crowd. This place is not necessarily suitable for relaxing.

Ebb tide in Pont-Aven – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

In the evening we reach our camping site near the small island “St. Cado”. Also here all restaurants have already closed at 19:00 o’clock, only a small bar at the harbour welcomes us for one or two beers and cider.

The island St. Cado at the beginning of the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art | HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

A lonely house on a small island near St. Cado – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art |HDR-Composition of 9 long-term exposure shots of 30 seconds maximum

14. Day:  St. Cado – Étel – Quiberon – Montlouis sur Loire

Today we’re going to Belle-Île. We start in St. Cado, first visit the ship cemetery in Étel and then drive on to the Quiberon peninsula, from where we want to cross over to Belle-Île.

The skeleton of an old fishing boat at the ship graveyard of Étel- Nikon D7500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 DC OS HSM | HDR-Composition of 5 individual shots

To cut a long story short: the Quiberon peninsula is a nightmare for campers and motorhomes. Every parking lot forbidden, height barriers and not even at the roadside you can stop for a small snapshot, because all roadsides are barricaded with wooden posts. Conveniently located camping or pitches? No, not at all.

When we arrive at the ferry terminal to Belle-Île, an extremely unfriendly port employee tells us that there would be no crossing to Belle-Île without a reservation.

We are frustrated and annoyed and leave Brittany early. Another 7 hours later we reach the campsite in Montlouis sur Loire in the Loire valley. Here we buy some crates of wine the next day and slowly start our way home via the “Lac du der” at Giffaumont-Champaubert (not recommended), Luxembourg and the Moselle at Bremm. The France travelogue ends at this point.

Finally a picture of our Trüffle in the camper bedroom – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

What photographic equipment did we have with us?

Below you will find affiliate links to the equipment we use:

• Camera Nikon D500
• Camera Nikon D7500
• Lens Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Lens Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Lens Walimex Pro 8mm f1:3,5 Fish-Eye
• ND-Filterset HAIDA Slim PRO II
• Rollei Cable remote shutter for Nikon
• Traveltripod Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g incl. tripodhead)
• Camera-Carrying-System Peak Design Capture Clip v3
• Waterproof photo backpack from Beschoi
• iPhone 8 Plus

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag A June in Brittany – Travelling the Atlantic coast of France by motorhome erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

So now, of all things, we’re going on a cruise ship and, to make matters worse, to a region where mistakes in public life can quickly end up in jail. We visit the Orient – friends and colleagues have persuaded me.

My first flight in the A380

Shortly before Christmas I get into an Airbus A380-800 of the airline Emirates in Düsseldorf at 20:45 with a cold and sore throat. I misunderstand the flight attendant’s seat instructions, at some point I find myself on the lower deck and am then accompanied back up to my seat. At least now I can say that I was once in the bar of an Airbus A380. for 10 seconds. Now I can die happy.

The flight to Dubai takes almost 6 hours with tailwind, over Bucharest the turbulences almost shake the board menu off my folding table. Apart from that the service and the food are excellent.

The in-flight media system “I.C.E” (Information, Communication, Entertainment) is very interesting for me as a technology and aviation freak. Real-time avionics data, camera images from cockpit, fuselage and tailplane perspective make the flight a real experience. Thanks to my cold, I’m awake all night and can’t get a wink of sleep, but I’m extremely tired. I follow our flight on the satellite map. We pass Syria in the east, then fly just past Mossul and Baghdad and finally land in Dubai at 5:50 am local time with 3 hours time difference. This planet is so small. For the flight in the A380 the journey was already worthwhile.

Dubai on arrival day – By jeep into the desert

Arriving in Dubai I have my first ‘aha’-experience. Noise is not welcome at the airport. So better don’t shout and don’t spread hecticness. Despite the crowds, it is extremely quiet at the airport and it is very organized. When a Chinese toddler starts to cry in the queue of the passport control because he doesn’t want to go in the direction his mother pulls him on the leash (Yes, right read, they had the child on a leash.), a friendly policeman waves the family out of the queue and controls the family preferentially. Great thing. Everybody won. In Germany the child would probably have terrorized the whole hall for 30 minutes with screaming.

Half an hour later it is light outside, we are taken in the bus to the AIDA Stella in the harbour “Port Rashid”. The cabin is ready for occupancy at 8:00 am. Short breakfast, then first a round of sleep. I do not want to exaggerate, but the cold is about to kill me.

The alarm clock rings at 2:00 pm. The 6 hours of sleep were worth it. Off we go from the ship to the cruise terminal, in front of which the four-wheel drive vehicles for the desert tour are already waiting.

Our driver takes us out of the city, past the old town, camel markets and horse racing tracks, until we finally leave the city behind us in an easterly direction. At some point we stop behind the entrance of a nature reserve. We get out of the car, I touch desert sand for the first time while our driver lets air out of the tires of our jeep, so that we can move better in the sand. On the now following drive, a little deeper into the desert, but still on a well-trodden path we see Oryx gazelles, desert foxes and other representatives of the fauna along the way.

Note the angle as we drive down the stage – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Our driver turns right into the dunes. The speed of the engine increases and we drive through the part of the huge reserve that is open for jeep safari. At the beginning everybody is still happy about the up and down and the roller coaster feeling in the sand. 30 minutes later it has become quiet, two of us try desperately not to throw up. Totally my thing!

Sunset in the desert – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After several short photo stops the trip ends in a kind of Bedouin camp. Here you can get food and drink, water pipe and dried dates.

Of course this is not a traditional desert village, but a tourist camp especially built for these jeep safaris. Nevertheless everything is arranged with love and a real oriental feeling comes up. I realize that my cold is suddenly blown away.

On the way back we are stuck in a traffic jam in Dubai. We look at the skyline, which some people might know from the AppleTV screensaver.

Back on the ship there is supposed to be a beer at 22:00 o’clock. Take it easy. Also because of the latent cold. Three “Swimming Pool” and two Corona later I am on the cabin at 01:00 o’clock.

The first day at sea

When we cast off the next day in Dubai I sit on the sun deck and edit the photos of the desert safari. The “Queen Elizabeth 2” and the “Costa Mediterranea” bid us farewell with the ship’s horn. The first day at sea lies ahead of us. Will I get bored? Now we will see.

I spend the day listening to a lecture about Oman, we go out for dinner twice, play billiards and air hockey several times.

Just past the Strait of Hormus, the weather turns. The sea becomes rougher, the wind freshens up considerably, a thunderstorm illuminates the sky and the lake and it flashes through the large windows of the Teatrium. The piano player plays “Let it be”, I drink a gin and tonic. An atmospheric, albeit surreal atmosphere.

I was not bored. But I have to admit that I find people sitting in the restaurant with flip-flops or cappies rather strange. The second day is coming to an end, I look once more from lower deck 5 at the sea illuminated by the weather and then go to sleep.

Mascat in Oman

On the third day my alarm clock rings at 05:45 in the morning. I get ready, leave the cabin and watch the sunrise over Oman from deck 5. It’s raining and the waves sometimes hit the railing slightly. An impressive scene.

Directly after docking in Muscat, I leave the ship for the booked excursion “Mystic Muscat”. At the port, every passenger receives a pass from the Royal Police of the Sultanate of Oman, which identifies him as a port tourist. At the exit, the port terminal is guarded by several policemen with rapid fire rifles. The sight was, shall we say, rather unusual for our eyes.

Our guide today is a native Indian. Like him, a lot of people from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh work in the United Arab Emirates and Oman. Sometimes only for 6 to 8 months during the tourist season. More than half of the inhabitants are immigrants. Our guide is cold, after all it is still raining. Today is one of two rainy days a year in Oman, he says. So we seem to have caught a great timing.

Port promenade of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The first destination we reach is the great mosque. According to our guide we have about 45 minutes time for this. We get out of the car and have to wait at the entrance for some time, because two guests did not notice that there are dress regulations in the mosques. But the mosque provides rental clothes for such cases. Unfortunately, the lady in question is now reluctant to put on worn clothes. Now we have only 40 minutes left. The couple is very uneducated. At some point they have finally put on their rented clothes and we can proceed to the inner courtyard of the mosque. I hope we’ll forget about those jerks when we leave and just leave them in Oman.

Dome in the Great Mosque of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The mosque is impressively large and the terrain extremely clean. We first see the relatively simple women’s prayer room and then the large prayer room in the main building. A huge carpet, fine mosaics and huge chandeliers decorate the room. Somewhere in the crowd I catch the statement of a guide that the chandelier in the middle of the mosque should weigh almost 8 tons. I cannot believe that.

Great Mosque of Muscat – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After visiting the prayer rooms we go back to the gardens of the mosque. Here an elderly gentleman and two ladies in long black robes, who are probably related to the community of the mosque, await us. They welcome us to Oman, are pleased that the country has developed in such a way over the last decades that we as tourists now come to them and serve us the traditional Kawa and dried dates. Your words seem sincere and your joy not played. I have the feeling that they want to give us a different impression of Islam than the one we might carry in our heads from the media and current affairs. You have achieved that.

Next destination: the Mascat Souk. It is one of the oldest markets in the Arab world. All kinds of goods are sold here, but mainly to tourists: fabrics, perfumes, art and souvenirs. The traders address the tourists directly, so one should be able to say no, otherwise one will be involved in a longer sales conversation. The prices are reasonable, but there is still room for negotiation, which sometimes one does not want to exhaust morally. Most of the booths are again serviced by Indians and Bangladeshis, and they are also very business friendly. If you make eye contact for a second or stand in front of a shop with interest, you are guaranteed to be approached and won’t be left alone again. I use the market to buy some small souvenirs for the family. But I buy these souvenirs at the only stand where we were not actively approached, with two Arabic looking older men. Both were simply friendly and reserved. Due to the previous rain it is extremely wet on the ground in the market. Thus, the whole complex was well rinsed and the flowing water does not necessarily make a very hygienic impression. The local people wait with sandals through the black, dirty water.

When we wait for the bus, it starts raining again. Like out of buckets. A restaurant owner sees that we are standing in the rain, runs to us and waves us hastily into his restaurant. I have to watch my camera, he says. We follow him and I am afraid that now we have to buy something from him. He even offers us a table where we are supposed to wait for the end of the rain. He is also happy that tourists come to his town and is extremely friendly to us. After some time I believe that he waved us in out of pure kindness and without ulterior motives.

Later we continue to the Sultan Museum and the Sultan Palace. Here we learn that hospitality is a tradition in Oman. As former desert nomads, it is a good custom to receive traveling guests. Therefore we are offered coffee and water. The museum shows a lot of information about the ruling sultan family and the habits of the population. The Sultan of Oman has put the country on a good path in recent years. Schools have been built, jobs created, the infrastructure has been improved and tourists have come to the country. The people of Oman therefore almost idolize him. Several posters and paintings on buildings show his portrait and the people here are proud of their secular ruler.

The Sultan’s Palace in Muscat was built in the 70s by an Indian construction company for the Sultan – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

The trip was certainly informative and interesting even if the weather was so bad. To be honest, I lacked a little flexibility. I would have liked to take more time for the mosque and Muscat itself and also would have preferred to determine the excursion time myself, after all the big mosque has to look breathtaking at nightfall, similar to the sultan’s palace. A trip on our own by taxi would probably have made this possible for us and saved us the contact to the stupid excursionists. Furthermore, one would probably have had more legroom than in the bus. Therefore, I recommend to take a taxi on your own and to visit the following places in Oman:

• Sultan-Qabus-Moschee https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Große_Sultan-Qabus-Moschee
• Sultanspalast
• Omanisches Kulturmuseum “Bait al zubair”

Back on board we finished the day in the “Anytime Bar” at the stern. I write this paragraph the following day at 15:00 and still have a headache.

Abu Dhabi – the fantastic sea of lights

Around 17:00 o’clock we reach the port of Abu Dhabi. On this fourth day, the AIDA shuttle bus takes us to the World Trade Center of Abu Dhabi, a central point in the city. From here we want to explore the city by taxi. Directly in front of the bus an alleged “taxi driver” intercepts us. He wants to drive us around the city for 50€ and wait for us for half an hour at each attraction. The half hour is too little for us and we refuse the offer. Unfortunately this dubious person is not satisfied with this and continues to bother us even when we want to get into a normal taxi.

With a regular taxi we now drive about 20km to the big Sheikh Zayid mosque in the east of the city. The ride costs us with a generous tip just under 15€.

Courtyard of the Sheikh Zayid Mosque after dark – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Both the outside of the mosque and the prayer rooms are simply breathtaking. Water games in the outside area, gold leaf on the countless columns, finest reliefs and carved writings take our breath away. I have seen many special buildings, be it castles in Scotland, chateaux on the Loire or wooden churches in Norway, but this is in a different league. I can only recommend everyone to visit this mosque in the dark. The lights blue illuminated domes and the illuminated prayer courtyard unfold their full charm in the evening. Be sure to bring a tripod for photos.

Entrance to the Sheikh Zayid Mosque – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

From the mosque we take a taxi to the Marina Mall, again a ride of 20km, again 15€ including tip. First we have a short look into this hyper shopping stamp. Here it should be said that one should not necessarily drink from the public drinking fountains. Unless you are up for long lasting diarrhoea.

Blue water even after dark – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Right next to the mall we find great viewpoints on the shore with views of the State Palace, the Hotel of the Emirates and the skyline of Abu Dhabi on Corniche Road / First Road.

The skyline of Abu Dhabi with the Corniche Road – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Again, a tripod is recommended for taking pictures. The water is, due to the sand, deep blue even in the dark.

Right the Emirates Palace Hotel – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

For another 15€ we go back to the ship. At the latest now it becomes clear that the dubious “taxi driver” from the World-Trade-Center would have exploited us properly.

The next day we go to the Eastern Mangroves for a kayak tour through the mangrove swamps. We start our kayak tour at the “Eastern Mangroves & Spa Hotel”. First we pass a pipeline deeper into the nature reserve. In the surroundings of the pipeline, which runs along the edge of the reserve, there is a strong smell of petrol. Something is rotten here. Nevertheless, the water is crystal clear, the bird life sits in the mangrove woods, later we have a possibility to swim on the beach in the reserve. But the pipeline clouded the overall picture.

Short swimming break during the kayak tour through the mangroves – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Here, once again an advantage of the cruise becomes clear: in advance, we did not have to worry about booking or transfer for even one minute. We booked this excursion, were taken directly from the ship to the starting point, everything was organized and we could fully concentrate on the moment. Different to the rather stressful bus tours with several stops we had plenty of time for this one activity.

Those who do a kayak tour here need some change of clothes and should also have a waterproof mobile phone cover in order to be able to take pictures. Although many of today’s smartphones are already waterproof, this does not prevent them from going under. Alternatively you can of course take a GoPro with you.

Back on the ship I sit down in the sauna despite 26° outside temperature in the wellness area. That might be a bit disturbed, some might think, but I have never sauned in such an unreal setting before. With a view to the skyline of Abu Dhabi in the background of the harbour terminal, it is an excellent place to sweat. Abu Dhabi was my personal highlight of the whole cruise.

• Scheich Zayid Moschee
• Abu Dhabi Marina Mall

Manama, the capital of Bahrain

This will be a short section. With the shuttle bus we went from AIDA Stella to the capital Manama. Here we first explored the souk, an Arabic market. However, this is not a market of flying merchants, but rather a kind of district with many shops.

Oriental lamps in the souk of Bahrain – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Fake watches, fabrics, partly fake smartphones but also some nice souvenirs can be bought here. I would not trust in principle that the goods are in any way original parts. A visit is worthwhile and somehow belongs to it. But there are nicer souks and if, then I would recommend the souk at nightfall. The many lights of the shops then create a nicer atmosphere. During the day the district rather awakes a kind of developing country charm, if one can speak of it at all.

Roads near the souk Bab el Bahrain in Manama – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

We also took a look at the World Trade Center of Manama from the outside. It is the iconic building that consists of two towers connected in the middle, with wind turbines generating electricity between them.

World Trade Center in Bahrain with its two towers with wind turbines – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

After visiting both places, Bahrain was the most disappointing place of the cruise for me. Back on the ship we looked at photos of other fellow vacationers from Manama and were amazed at the beautiful places our table neighbors had found in the capital of Bahrain. The beach promenade should definitely be worth a visit. I think we simply looked at the wrong or too few places in Bahrain:

• World Trade Center Bahrain Manama
• Bab el Bahrain Souk in Manama

Return journey to Dubai and city exploration

The outlines of Dubai appear in the haze above the horizon as we approach the port “Port Rashid” with the AIDA Stella, where our cruise also began. In front of us lies the most exhausting day of our journey.

Dubai appears in the haze – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

In the harbour we take a taxi to the next metro station and from there to the Dubai Mall. Our taxi driver gives us the advice to take the taxi directly. That is cheaper. He is also right. We tell him that we want to experience the “Metro-Experience”. He laughs and drops us off at the “Al Jafiliya” Metro Station. The people here are all courteous and amazingly open.

We get into the metro and are haunted by bad looks. Awkward, because we got on in the women’s compartment. A friendly local man signals that we should follow him, laughs at us and leads us into the mixed compartment of the train. It is not that women are not allowed to ride with the men, but that they are allowed a part of the train by not being harassed. Of course, this does not make our faux pas any better, quite the contrary. Typical tourists. If the young man hadn’t helped us, we would probably have had to pay a fine of 100 Dirham per person.

Arrived at the station “Dubai Mall / Burj Khalifa” we press our noses to the windows of the station to be able to see the Burj Khalifa, the highest building in the world. Again an older man, who is completely strange to us, speaks to us. He tells us in English that we should follow the passenger conveyor belt for a few more meters, then we would be able to see the tower on our right. He says goodbye with a smile. The people here are incredibly helpful and courteous. We notice this again some time later when our Metro ticket falls out of our pockets. A complete stranger follows us, talks to us, hands over the lost ticket and wishes us a nice day. Unbelievable.

We look at the Dubai Mall. This is totally sick. Fish swim in shop windows, a huge shark aquarium juts out in the middle of this superlative shopping centre. This heavily air-conditioned temple of consumption puts everyone else in the shade. Due to its size it is neither cosy nor inviting, rather anonymous and overwhelming. Nevertheless, you have to see it once.

The shark aquarium in the Dubai Mall – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

With the Metro we go from here to the “Dubai Marina”. On Thursdays you can see here the exotic cars of the rich inhabitants of Dubai, because it is the last day before the weekend. Many have now time to splash around a little with the car. But also away from the cars “Dubai Marina” has a lot to offer. Blue water, the marina, bluish window fronts of the surrounding high-rise buildings.

Dubai Marina – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM

We continue on foot to the monorail for the crossing on Palm Island. Meanwhile it is 13:00 o’clock and I cannot feel my feet anymore.

Here we see the famous hotel “Atlantis The Palm” with the water park of the same name.

Already in the morning we had reserved in the cruise terminal for the visit of the Burj Khalifa ticket for 6:00 pm. This was more expensive than booking the tickets directly on the official website of the tourist attraction, but we didn’t want to enter our credit card data in the free and unencrypted WLAN of Port Rashid. Those who plan far enough in advance should book the tickets comfortably from home already before the beginning of the holiday. This saves money and makes sure that one is really allowed to visit the tower on the desired date.

From “Palm Island” we take the monorail back to the mainland, then take the metro back to the station “Dubai Mall / Burj Khalifa”. Unfortunately we did not know how to get from here to the tower. The friendly security people explain the way to us and we realize that we have to walk back to the Dubai Mall to get from there underground to the tower. Now time is pressing. Finally we make it in the last second to cash in our 18:00 o’clock ticket.

After passing the security checks the elevator takes us to the 124th floor in only 55 seconds. Here the visitor platform “AT THE TOP” awaits us at a height of about 500 meters. If you get a little bit down on your knees, you can feel the building moving inside you. From the outer platform you have a breathtaking view over the whole of Dubai.

View from Burj Khalifa from 500 meters height – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

Those who want to spend a little more money can go up to the second visitor platform on the 148th floor (555m high). Here, there is less crowd, the floor is a little more stylishly furnished and small meals and appetizers are served. Unfortunately we did not find out about this until we were back on the ship.

The Dubai Fountains near the Dubai Mall shine in the light of the surrounding high-rise buildings – Nikon D500, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM

From the Dubai Fountains we take a taxi back to Port Rashid. I ask our Pakistani driver how life is in Dubai and how the Arabs deal with the immigrants, if there are any tensions. The living together is good. It is quite OK, he puts it into perspective a little later. Showing his own wealth does not fit in with his own culture. Even if you have money in Pakistan, you wouldn’t want to rub everyone’s nose in it. These differences naturally create points of friction. But on the whole he is satisfied.

Our Pakistani taxi driver thinks German tourists are great. They are always nice and friendly, he says. He also knows Hitler and Angela.

On the ship there is a “Lynchburg Lemonade” in the Anytime Bar. One last time I enjoy my cocktail with a view of Dubai’s skyline and go to bed afterwards.

It will not have been my last cruise. You see more than just staying in a single hotel, a single city. Nevertheless, one always has one’s own room at hand and does not have to move from hotel to hotel. The booked excursions save a lot of organisational efforts in the run-up and also during the trip. Partly, without the excursion program of the AIDA Stella, one would not have heard about all the attractions. But I would advise against extensive bus excursions. Too little time at interesting places, constant looking up at the clock and too many daft fellow travellers. Then I would rather go on an exploratory trip by taxi.

After only 3 hours sleep the alarm clock rings and the bus takes us to Dubai International Airport. On the wings of an Airbus A380 from Emirates we travel home for Christmas.

• Burj Khalifa (mit Ticketreservierung)
• The Palm Jumeirah und Atlantis Hotel
• Dubai Marina
• Dubai Mall

The accompanying video

I have created a travel video with very little effort. So no gimbals, no stabilization and almost no editing effort. Just to remind you.

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

What photographic equipment did I have with me?

In the following you will find affiliate links to my used equipment:

• DSLR-Kamera Nikon D500
• Objektiv Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Objektiv Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Reisestativ Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g inkl. Kopf)
• iPhone 8 Plus
• Mpow wasserdichte Hülle für iPhone
• Travelite Vector Beautycase für Kameratransport im Handgepäck

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Through the Orient on the AIDA Stella – my first cruise erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

During the landing approach to Porto, the northern Portuguese city shows its best side for the first time. We approach the airport OPO from the south and see the old town of Porto and the bridges over the river Douro in all their colourful splendour below us.

View of Porto’s old town from the Gaia side – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

After landing we take the metro to our apartment “Boavista Palace” in the district Boavista (Rua Dr Emilio Peres, 74, 4050-007 Porto, Portugal).
I used the check-in in the apartment directly to get his personal tips for the surrounding gastronomy from the receptionist. A short time later we set off for the historic city centre of Porto.

At this point, it should be said right away that the local public transport from metro and buses is not exactly cheap. Not even if you buy tickets for several days. Moreover, the vending machines and the zone validity of the tickets are anything but self-explanatory. Therefore, the use of Uber for longer trips is much more practical, especially as in the city area of Porto, one also makes good progress on foot or by taxi boat. Those who nevertheless absolutely want to buy tickets for metro and buses should rather do this at a counter with advice due to the incomprehensible vending machines.

Historic house fronts in Porto’s Old Town – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

City park and beach promenade

Those who are well on foot can first walk from the city centre through the “Parque da cidade”, the city park, and then walk along the beach in the direction of the harbour district. The way from the city park along the coast leads past small bars and beach cafes, rugged rocky coast and old forts.

View from the “Praia Internacional” to the Atlantic Ocean – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

We take a seat in a small café on the beach “Praia Internacional”. I watch the hustle and bustle on the beach promenade and drink a sip of the Portuguese beer “Super Bock”, while others do sports near the beach. Street musicians play songs, artists of life and those who want to become artists pass by, cyclists avoid a free running dog. I look at the Atlantic Ocean, where I swam 20 minutes ago – a cold affair in May.

After the beer we continue north along the beach promenade until we finally arrive in Matosinhos for lunch.

Matosinhos

Matosinhos is the port district of Porto. Restaurants and fish shops line the front streets like a string of pearls. The smell of freshly grilled fish over charcoal fire is in the air, the sun pierces.

Guests sit in a fish restaurant in Matosinhos, next to it the fresh fish is prepared on the charcoal grill. – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

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Typical for Porto, the colourful house fronts with their tile and mosaic decorations await us in the Matosinhos quarter. Between the restaurants and shops there are abandoned or almost dilapidated houses without any glamour. A contrast that personally fascinates me again and again.

Almost all restaurants offer seating inside but also in a kind of “glass box” on the street. We are sitting in this conservatory-like construction when the waiter presents us with a plate of fish of different sizes. We select the middle fish, toast with our wine and the selected fish is grilled outside for us. The preparation is almost sparse – salt, olive oil, some steamed vegetables in addition. An excellent, simple meal.

The buildings in the back streets of Matosinhos have already seen better times – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Who loves not only fish, but also other seafood, will get his money’s worth in the “Restaurant Teresa” and in the “Rei Da Sardinha Assada“. Both restaurants offer fresh fish, lobsters, mussels, octopus and other specialities.

Clams with parsley and lemon in the “Restaurant Teresa” in Matosinhos – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

The “Rei Da Sardinha Assada” was recommended to us by one of our overriders when we asked him where he and his family would like to eat on a free day. The visitor can expect a wide choice of food served in a rather simple environment. The restaurant is a bit more hidden and not in the front row. A real insider tip.

 Grilled calamari with onions in the “Rei Da Sardinha Assada” – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Gaia-Side

From the Porto side of the Douro River you can reach the southern side of Gaia via one of the many river bridges or for around €3 per person with a taxi boat every 10 minutes.
In addition to the great view of Porto, visitors can expect good restaurants, a cable car to the nunnery, port wine cellars and market halls.

The sun goes down over the sea, in the foreground one of the Douro bridges of Porto – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

If you want to change from the Porto page to the Gaia page, the taxi boat is recommended. For 3€ it takes the passengers from one side of the city to the other. No walk over the bridges or a taxi is faster.

Those who think of Porto, of course, also think of Port wine and the corresponding Port wine cellars. These are all on the Gaia side of the Douro river. Well-known manufacturers like Sandemann, Offley, Burmester and others invite the visitors here to guided tours and tastings in their own cellars.

Numerous port wine brands have opened their cellars to visitors – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

If the matter is not too dizzying for you, you can take the cable car from the river bank of the Gaia side up to the nunnery “Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar”. The backyards and streets of the Gaia side are decorated with numerous street art installations. If you walk carefully through the alleys, you can find some small works of art.

On the Gaia side of the Douro River you will find numerous street art installations – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The next evening we use the view from the Gaia side of Porto for an extensive photo tour at nightfall.

Photo tour to the blue hour

Those who try the Google image search for impressions of Porto will primarily find pictures of the old town with its colorful house fronts and lights. Most of the photos were taken from the Gaia side of the river Duoro.

Reason enough for me to wait here for the blue hour.

View of Porto and the bridge “Ponte Luíz I” at the beginning of the blue hour – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

The illuminated old town of Porto and the river bridges offer excellent motifs for long-term exposures and HDR shots. But not only photo fanatics get their money’s worth here: The sight offers all visitors an extraordinarily romantic ambience.

Armed with tripod and camera, we set out to explore potential motifs and then waited for the lights on bridges and buildings to turn on. About half an hour after the meteorological start of the blue hour the time had come: Bridges and the city shone in the golden yellow, warm artificial light.

View of the nunnery and the bridge “Ponte Luíz I” at night – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art

Delights and time-out

Apart from the places mentioned in the text so far, there are of course further recommendations for all those who would like to explore the city from its culinary side.

Markethall “Mercado Bom Sucesso”

A visit to the market hall “Mercado Bom Sucesso” is highly recommended. You can try various Portuguese specialities at countless stands. Nowhere else can you gather so many different culinary impressions in such a short time as here. We can expect seafood, suckling pig, ham, sausage and cheese specialities, baked goods and wine and port wine merchants. It is best to plan at least two hours and enjoy the Portuguese cuisine.

The market stalls in the “Mercado Bom Sucesso” invite you to explore Portuguese cuisine – Nikon D500, Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM | Art 

Café Santiago

One of the Uber drivers recommended us to try the Portuguese speciality “Francesinha”: A huge baked toast sandwich, served with a spicy sauce and fries. For this speciality we should go to the “Café Santiago” in the upper part of the city.

Three kinds of meat and sausage between toast slices and a fried egg gratinated with hearty cheese – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

Let’s go. The restaurant was well visited, so well that larger groups waited on the street for a free table. Since there were only two of us, we were luckily able to sit right at the counter and have a look at the open part of the kitchen.

Here the “Francesinhas” are toasted in chord, baked and then served on the plates for the guests. The waiters swarm out and distribute the fresh sandwiches to the guests of the “Cafés Stantiago”.

The Francesinhas are fried behind the counter, baked and then served to the hungry guests – iPhone 8 Plus inbuild wideangle lens

I bite into my sandwich topped with three kinds of meat and sausage, baked with cheese and a fried egg. The sandwich is surrounded by chips and a lightly edible sauce that reminds me a little of fish & chips with vinegar and salt. A real taste firework with heart attack potential. After that you just want to go to bed, but it was definitely worth it.

What photographic equipment did I bring with me?

Below you will find affiliate links to the equipment I use:

• DSLR-Camera Nikon D500
• Lens Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM
• Lens Sigma 17-50mm F2,8 EX DC OS HSM
• Travel Tripod Rollei Compact Carbon (980 g incl. head)
• iPhone 8 Plus
• Travelite Vector Beautycase for cameratransport in handbaggage

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag 7 days in Porto – Travel tips and photoblog erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.