Required material

• Any hardwood with a thickness of 2-3 cm (can be bought at dieholzmanufaktur24.de) in the length of the width of your bathtub plus a total of 30 cm more for the sides and the wine glass holder. A depth of 25 cm is sufficient, do what suits you best.
• Ponal Classic wood glue *
• Self-adhesive felt glides from the roll

Note: I find it more precious to make the tray out of 3cm thick wood. If you agree, make sure beforehand that your saw has a sufficiently large cutting depth even at a 45° angle – more on this topic below.

Required tools

• Circular saw or hand-held circular saw with 45° cutting function *.
• Fine saw blade * for clean cuts
• Palm router * for “hollowing out” the wine glass holder

Later, we have to cut the wood at the butt edges at 45° angles. For this, your saw must be able to cut at a 45° angle. Note that with a wood thickness of 2 cm you need a 45° cutting depth of 2.9 cm, with a wood thickness of 3 cm it is already 4.25 cm. Not every saw can do that. That’s why I use the Bosch BITURBO GKS 18V-68 C cordless circular saw * with a cutting depth of 4.9 cm at a 45° cutting angle.

If you want to cut wood for furniture and similar projects and precision is important so that the mitre-cut angles really fit well in front of each other, you should use a fine saw blade. I use a Bosch fine saw blade * that fits my saw.

So that we can later “hollow out” the wine glass holder from the inside and mill out the insert for the wine glass, a surface milling machine is recommended. I have been using the OF-1200 A surface router from Lux * for years. It’s cheap, but it’s quite good for my hobby purposes.

Construction plan and instructions

I have intentionally not added any measurements, after all, every bathtub is different in width. Just measure the widest point of your bathtub and add 2cm so that you have enough space between the edge of the bathtub and the inside of the wood.

To this determined width, including the added 2cm, you now add twice the thickness of your wood.

Again for safety:
Bath tub width + 2cm + wood thickness + wood thickness

Now divide your piece of wood into 4 sections using a tape measure and a pencil:

Section 1: Draw a cut edge (A) on the top of your wood from the beginning of your wood after 10cm. This area will later become the left border.

Section 2: Now measure another large piece in the length you have determined above (
bath width + 2cm + wood thickness + wood thickness) and again draw a cut edge (B) on the top of your wood. This will later become the tray itself.

Section 3: Now measure another 10cm and draw a cut edge (C) on the top of your wood. This area will later become the right border.

Section 4: We will build the wine glass holder from the rest later.

First cut with the saw along the cutting edge “C” – quite normally at a 90° angle.

Now cut at a 45° angle along the cut edges “A” and “B” so that the saw blade points to the centre of the later shelf.

Now you should have 4 wooden pieces in your hands:

• The left surround (section 1)
• The shelf of your tub tray (probably the biggest part) (section 2)
• The right border (section 3)
• The rest of which we will use to build the wine glass holder (section 4)

Remove all chips with fine sandpaper and make sure the cut edges are nice and flat.

Now the Ponal Classic wood glue is used:

Wet the mitred angle pieces with the glue and place the wooden pieces so that you get a U-shape, see construction plan. Place the workpiece so that you can exert pressure on the glued areas during the drying process. Use screw clamps or heavy parts such as boxes or bricks to “squeeze” your workpiece between. Make sure that any glue that comes out between the pieces of wood due to the pressure is wiped away immediately. Let the whole thing dry for 2 hours. Better safe than sorry.

Meanwhile, we take care of our wine glass holder:

First measure the diameter of the feet of your wine glasses and add 2.5cm to this length.

For example, if your wine glass foot is 6cm in diameter and you add 2.5cm, you get a total length of 8.5cm.

Now cut a square with the calculated dimensions from your scrap wood (in the example 8.5cm x 8.5cm).

Now clamp this piece in a vice with its underside facing up. Set your router to a depth that is at least half the thickness of your wood. With the router, cut away everything from the centre, but leave a 1cm margin on each of three sides. The left side edges form a “U”.

Now turn the workpiece over so that the top is facing up. Mark the centre of the workpiece with a pencil. Draw a guide line from here to the centre of the open side of the “U” on the bottom. Now mill from the centre to the middle of the open “U” side.

The wine glass holder is finished. Test whether your wine glass fits, otherwise adjust it until the wine glass is securely held. We remove protruding fibres and splinters with fine sandpaper.

When the tray and wine glass holder are ready, it is time for the “wedding”. We now glue the holder to the tray with Ponal Classic wood glue.

If you are right-handed, I recommend sticking the wine glass holder on the left side of your tray. For left-handers, it is more ergonomically accessible on the right side.

Now you can cut the self-adhesive felt gliders to size and stick them to the places marked in purple on the construction plan. This will prevent the wood from scratching your tub.

Have fun bathing and relaxing!

* All links marked with an asterisk are Amazon affiliate links. We receive a percentage of the purchases made through them. Our recommendations are nevertheless honest and sincere.

Der Beitrag DIY Wooden Bath Tray with Wine Glass Holder erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

From wood we saw ourselves two 10cm x 10 cm squares. Also, a U-piece opened from one side with the same dimensions. The remaining bars of the U-piece are only 1.5 cm wide.

From the leftovers we now build the cable gland by sawing a piece so that it fits into the opening of the U-piece. We drill two holes in this piece with a 12 mm drill bit and then file them flat.

With white glue and two screw clamps we glue the bottom side, the U-piece and the cable gland as shown in the picture above.

Now we insert the cable and roll it up inside the wooden block. With cable ties we can fix it inside and also protect it from being pulled out too far.

When the cable is tucked away, we also glue the head plate to our construction with white glue and a screw clamp.

Because I value high initial strength and fast hardening in white glue, I always use only Ponal Classic (Amazon Affiliate Link) as white glue.

This glue is simply excellent to work with, becomes transparent after drying, and is harder than most types of wood when hardened. If something breaks, it’s usually not the glue that breaks, but the wood around it.

Der Beitrag Homepod Mini cable too long – shorten or hide? erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Since we had to make one room out of two for the renovation of our bathroom, we had to replace a load-bearing wall with a steel beam.

But how do we integrate a steel beam into a bathroom or a room that can’t really tolerate “industrial style”? With wood, of course. Properly clad, it is even possible to accommodate indirect ceiling lighting in the beam by means of two LED strips.

First of all, we paint the beam in white – so it fits perfectly into the white ceiling, and later gives off the light of the integrated LEDs optimally. For this I use Hammerite metal protection paint white glossy (Amazon Affiliate Link). In my case, two coats were necessary with it.

When the paint is dry, we can install the LED strips. I trust the Philips Hue system everywhere, because the components are characterized by high quality, durability, good integration into various smarthome systems and reliable control. Specifically, I have installed a Philips Hue White & Color Ambiance 2m strip (Amazon Affiliate Link) on each side of the beam. I was able to conveniently shorten this to the required length with scissors. The stripe has a self-adhesive back and is simply glued very deep in the beam – as close as possible to the center crossbar.

Now it’s time for the construction of the wooden cladding. I wanted to have a self-supporting construction, which saved me from having to drill the beam or glue the cladding to the beam.

Finally, we build a wooden U-profile. On the construction drawing above we see a wooden support surface attached to the U-profile on the left side. With this, we first hang the wooden construction on one side in the beam.

When the cladding has been temporarily attached, we can screw several grub screws (Amazon Affiliate Link) into the wood on the right side. For this we should cut a thread into the wood beforehand, or at least pre-drill generously – depending on the hardness of the wood used. Turned far enough into the wood, these grub screws then serve as a bearing surface on the right side. By using black grub screws, we do not see any screw heads and the grub screws serving as suspension are hardly noticeable.

If you are interested in our bathroom renovation, you can find a picture gallery here.

Der Beitrag Cladding visible steel beams with wood (incl. lighting) erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Meanwhile, small signs explaining the title, artist, year or origin hang from all the pictures in the apartment. As described at the beginning, you won’t find many offers for the inscription of paintings if you search on Google. But after some searching I found a “workaround” on the pages of Schildermaxe.de.

Take the product “name tag”, select the desired dimensions, curves and colors, then enter the desired label and choose the variant with magnetic holder.

What is actually intended as a name tag for attaching to clothing can be used for other purposes. You can attach the badges either to a magnetic foil attached under the picture (so the badges can be easily exchanged if necessary), with hot glue or, if you really want it to be bomb-proof, with mounting glue.

Feuerfest Heißklebepistole mit 30 pcs Klebestick 7mm*130mm Heißklebesticks, Klebepistole für DIY Kleine Handwerk und schnelle...*

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• 2 Minuten schnell Aufwärmzeit beträgt - Bereit zur Verwendung der Heißklebepistole in 2 Minuten.Es heizt schnell und automatisch...

10,99 EUR

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Special offer

Pattex Montagekleber Super Power, Baukleber mit superstarker Anfangshaftung, Kraftkleber für saugende Materialien, Kleber für...*

• Superstarke Montagepaste – Der Pattex Montagekleber überzeugt mit seiner besonders hohen Anfangshaftung und der superstarken...
• Saugende Untergründe – Der Wandkleber gleicht Unebenheiten aus und eignet sich für saugende Materialien*, z.B. als Keramikkleber,...

−3,01 EUR 6,98 EUR

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Not only pictures and paintings can be labelled so stylishly. Models or components of collections can also be attractively enhanced with these signs:

Der Beitrag Affordable name badges as gallery badges for paintings and collections erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

First of all, we need memory. I recommend to buy relatively large modules, so that we can use the maximum amount of memory per bar to reach the maximum amount of memory in the final result. 8 GB per bar should be the undersize.
You should also pay attention to the timings, so that each bar is timed the same, otherwise you will have performance problems later on. Buy at least DDR4-2800, CL 17 is recommended. You will need about 30 bars, I recommend this one here http://amzn.to/2jmpl6U.

Bullshit. Just buy some old rubbish from Craigslist / ebay.

To make sure that everything is nicely connected in a ring-shaped way “knot” the bars in a ring-shaped way with flexible wire, see blue circle. All in all, you knot three circles that vary slightly in size.

You then lay these three circles on top of each other and interleave them a little bit into each other and solder the rings to each other (pink circle in the first picture). Also tie them within the same ring with strong wire, for example from ground wires. If you are not sure how often you should solder the bars together, then listen to my wise words:”A lot helps a lot” and “more is always better” – this does not apply to Tinder acquaintances.

When this is done, tie a colorful LAN cable to a nice loop and attach it with cable ties at the top (or anywhere else) to the RAM wreath. Now we glue the beautiful WAGO clamps with hot glue on the wreath. Here I have used the connectors in orange and yellow, which are pretty colorful and hold well on the bars.

WAGO 2273-203 orange: http://amzn.to/2Ac6DqQ
WAGO 2273-205 yellow: http://amzn.to/2k1Ttsx

We then hang our extremely high-quality mini Christmas tree balls into these clamps by attaching them to the connectors with a cable core.

Extremely high quality mini Christmas tree balls: http://amzn.to/2jV1Buy

Then we’ll get old keyboards. From this we take the keys for a nice Christmas message. Depending on how many keyboards you want to sacrifice, you have the following options:

MERRY XMAS – requires two keyboards (because of the bloody “R”)

MERRY CHRISTMAS – requires three keyboards (because of the bloody “R”)

MERRY CHRISTMAS YOU FILTHY ANIMAL – requires three keyboards (because of the bloody “R”, the Y, the I and because of M) This variant is characterized by the best ratio between usable keys per used keyboard, but may be NSFW.

Anyway, as a carrier for the keys we cut a piece of wood which we paint professionally so that it doesn’t look completely shitty when you look at the finished Christmas wreath from the side later on.

Then we glue our keys to it with hot glue. The complete carrier is glued to one of the RAM bars at the bottom of the wreath.

Finished – decorate beautifully, take kitschy photo and then off to Instagram with the thing:

Thank you for watching and a lot of fun when building. Next time, I’ll show you how to build a plug that can be used to quickly reset all electrical devices with a network connection to their factory settings:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag How to: The IT-Departments advent wreath erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.