What you need to create an HDR image in this tutorial:

• Luminar Neo Image Editor with HDR Merge Plugin (Download free trial version here) – purchase price later approx. 89€ for Luminar Neo and 49€ for HDR Merge.
• Mac or Windows computer (Luminar Neo with HDR Merge Plugin is available for both platforms)
• 3 to 10 images of an HDR exposure series

Importing Raw Photographs into Luminar Neo HDR Merge

Once you have installed Luminar Neo and added the HDR Merge Plugin on the start screen (click on the puzzle piece next to the Luminar logo) you are ready to go.

I have stored the RAW photos of my exposure series on the desktop. You can also import JPEGs at this point, but for reasons of higher image quality I always recommend using RAW files. In my case, I want to create an HDR composition from 10 differently exposed photos of one and the same motif. By the way, the pictures show the lighthouse “Phare petit minou” in France. It is one of my best-selling images on various stock photo portals.

I simply drag and drop the images I use into the HDR Merge area on the start screen of Luminar Neo:

Within the import field, the imported images are now displayed as thumbnails. For this purpose, the respective exposure value is displayed below the images and we can hit the “Merge” button:

The images are now merged and the composition is displayed in the image catalogue. With a double click on the image in the catalogue we can jump to the development mask:

Infinite possibilities of HDR processing

An HDR image lives from the details and the contrast. By combining different exposures, no details are lost in overexposed or underexposed parts of the image.

When processing, I therefore start with the histogram and the shadows and highlights. This way I increase the range of visible details:

Both the light clouds and the dark area under the bridge become visible with all their details. I can then enhance or strengthen the details themselves with the settings in the details section. For the first time we see a real HDR look in our picture:

It makes little sense at this point to go through all the other possible processing settings; after all, every motif is different and so are tastes. Besides, basic, non-HDR-specific post-processing development processes should be familiar to most users anyway. But this much should be said, just by looking at the sheer amount of editing options available, it becomes clear how much room for creativity there is in Luminar Neo. For the final result above, I used only a fraction of the total functions available:

If you want to go further, you can even edit or replace essential components of the image with the help of an amazingly well-functioning artificial intelligence (AI). For example, the sky can be replaced and the lighting mood of the image can be adapted to the lighting conditions of the sky. Is that still photography? In my eyes, such editing goes far beyond authentic photography. Anyways, the technical possibilities are impressive:

What about performance?

A lousy speed when stitching HDRs can really ruin the fun. When I develop my first photos while travelling, I don’t want to have to stare at loading bars the whole time.

In the past, I have created HDRs mainly with Affinity Photo and Aurora HDR (also from the developer of Luminar). The new HDR workflow in Luminar Neo beats them all.

On my Macbook M1 Pro, the times for assembling 10 images into an HDR composition (no alignment correction, no ghost reduction) are as follows:

• Luminar Neo HDR Merge: around 19 seconds
• Affinity Photo: around 25 seconds
• Aurora HDR 2019: around 26 seconds

Download free trial version of Luminar Neo now

The developers of Skylum are based in Ukraine. By buying the software, you support the people and the economy in Ukraine who are suffering from the Russian war of aggression.

If you want to test the software for free, that’s no problem. Click here for the product page with free trial version for Luminar Neo and the HDR Merge Plugin.

Der Beitrag How to develop HDR photos in 2022: Luminar Neo with HDR Merge erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Settings for HDR recordings by free hand and from the tripod saved to usersetting bank „U1“

In order to be able to record HDR recordings free hand and from tripod, we use the following settings on the User Setting bank „U1“. For freehand shooting we use the CH mode for fast continuous shooting, for touch-free and therefore shake-free shooting from a tripod we use the self-timer later. However, the following settings apply to both scenarios. With SLR cameras, there were dedicated settings for freehand and tripod, since with DSLRs we also used mechanisms such as mirror lock-up to reduce camera shake. With the mirrorless cameras of the Nikon Z-series, this is not necessary.

With the following settings, we will later take 5 images which will be combined to one HDR image.

If you prefer to create 7 images for a larger bandwidth instead of 5 images, you can put the alternative settings with 7 single images (marked blue) on the user setting bank U2. However, I recommend to take 7 single images only with a tripod.

Nikon D7500 Digital SLR im DX Format (20,9 MP, EXPEED 5-Prozessor, AF-System mit 51 Messfeldern, ISO 100-51.200, 4K UHD Video...*

• 20,9 MP DX-CMOS-Filter ohne optischen Tiefpassfilter; 180k-Pixel-RGB-Belichtungsmesssensor; Expeed 5-Bildprozessor; ISO-Empfindlichkeit...
• 8 Bilder pro Sekunde maximale Serienbildgeschwindigkeit; 51 AF-Messfelder mit 15 Kreuzsensoren und Messfeldgruppensteuerung

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General Camera settings

1. Selecting the correct operating mode:
   Turn the program selector wheel to „A”.
2. Adjust the correct aperture:
   At this point I set aperture to “8” for HDR shots and change it according to the subject and environment.
3. Setting a suitable ISO number:
   I’ll start here at ISO 200.

Settings in the “Photo Shooting Menu”

1. Optional: change folder names to HDRZ6 (this gives us our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Optional: change file name to HDR (so we can easily distinguish HDR photos from “normal” photos by the file name)
3. Choose image area: FX
4. Image size: JPEG L and RAW L
5. NEF (RAW) recording: Lossless Compression and 14-bit
6. ISO sensitivity settings: ISO auto OFF, start at 100
7. White balance: cloudy sky, so that always the same white balance is used during the bracketing row, the correct correction we carry out later at the PC.
8. Manage Picture Control: NL (Neutral)
9. Active D-Lighting: OFF
10. Long exposure NR: OFF
11. Vignette Control: OFF
12. Diffraction compensation: OFF
13. Auto distortion control: OFF
14. Flicker reduction: OFF
15. Metering: Matrix
16. Skip flash control, flash mode and flash compensation, because we don’t use flash anyway
17. Auto Bracketing set: AE (without flash)
    Number of exposures 5F / alternatively 7F
    Step size 1.0
18. Multiple exposure: OFF
19. HDR (high dynamic range): OFF
    Note: We want to create an HDR ourselves from the individual shots later, if we used this option, the camera would assemble an HDR itself, without us having any influence on the final result. This function is only used by people who normally take photos with their smartphone.
20. Interval timer shooting: OFF
21. Time-lapse movie: OFF
22. Focus shift shooting: OFF
23. Silent photography: OFF

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• KOMPATIBILITÄT: Kompatibel mit Nikon D810 D800 D750 D700 D7500 D7200 D7100 D7000 D610 D600 D500 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300...

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Settings in “Custom configuration Menu”

We leave all settings on the default values except for the following settings mentioned here:

1. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – self-timer delay: 2
2. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – number of shots: 5 / alternatively 7 shots
3. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C2 self-timer – interval between shots: 0.5 seconds
4. Menu area E “Bracketing & Flash” – E7 Bracketing order: N (MTR > under > over)

Save settings permanently to Usersetting bank „U1“

In order to really save the settings we have made so far, we go back to the “SYSTEM” menu and select the memory bank „U1“ under the “Save User Settings” system menu item and confirm twice with “OK”.
If we now switch to another operating mode such as “A”, “M” or “S” or switch off the camera and then switch back to the „U1“ program, all our previously set data will be available again. Depending on the available light, we may have to adjust the exposure series properties to the lighting conditions.

Taking photos

We have now saved all settings and can make our recordings when we access the usersetting „U1“.
First we switch off the autofocus and focus manually, so that the focus does not change unintentionally during the exposure series.

When shooting with a tripod

First, turn off the image stabilizer if present on the lens. Switch to the self-timer. Now 5 shots (or alternatively 7 shots) are taken automatically within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

When shooting free hand (without a tripod)

First, turn on the image stabilizer, if present on the lens. Switch to high speed mode CH. Now, while holding the shutter-release button down, 5 shots are taken in a row within the configured exposure bracket. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

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How to develop the HDR photo / Which Software to use

As a software for HDR merging I use Aurora HDR.
You can get yourself a free trial by clicking this link: https://skylum.evyy.net/pixelfriedhofaurorahdr

See all steps of the configuration in my video

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

Camera-Carrying-System Peak Design Capture Clip v3: https://geni.us/KFxtYmM (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 24-70mm 2.8: https://geni.us/pKt2sbG (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro: https://geni.us/ADMHVq6 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 150-600mm: https://geni.us/xJ3A3 (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Sigma 18-35mm 1.8: https://geni.us/rnztt4N (Amazon Affiliate Link)

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag HDR Settings for Nikon Z6 and Z6 II on Usersettings „U1“ and „U2“ erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Settings for HDR recordings by free hand and from the tripod saved to usersetting bank „U1“

In order to be able to record HDR recordings free hand, we use the following settings on the quick memory bank „U1“. These settings are chosen so that the entire HDR series is recorded quickly and without long delays between shots. This prevents changes in the scenery caused by movement and thus ghost images. Settings for waiting times between two shots are reduced to a minimum and the mirror lock up is not used.

Nikon D7500 Digital SLR im DX Format (20,9 MP, EXPEED 5-Prozessor, AF-System mit 51 Messfeldern, ISO 100-51.200, 4K UHD Video...*

• 20,9 MP DX-CMOS-Filter ohne optischen Tiefpassfilter; 180k-Pixel-RGB-Belichtungsmesssensor; Expeed 5-Bildprozessor; ISO-Empfindlichkeit...
• 8 Bilder pro Sekunde maximale Serienbildgeschwindigkeit; 51 AF-Messfelder mit 15 Kreuzsensoren und Messfeldgruppensteuerung

773,14 EUR

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General Camera settings

1. Selecting the correct operating mode:
   Turn the program selector wheel to „A”.
2. Adjust the correct aperture:
   At this point I set aperture to “8” for HDR shots and change it according to the subject and environment.
3. Setting a suitable ISO number:
   I’ll start here at ISO 400.
4. Activate the bracketing row:
   Hold down the BKT button and use the rear control dial to set “5F” for 5-step bracketing. Enter the value “1.0” as the selection for the entire step size with the front e-dial.

Settings in the “Photo Shooting Menu”

1. Optional: change folder names to HDR75 (this gives us our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Optional: change file name to HDR (so we can easily distinguish HDR photos from “normal” photos by the file name)
3. Flash control: TTL (no matter, because we don’t use flash anyway)
4. Choose image area: DX
5. Image quality: RAW
6. Image size: L
7. NEF (RAW) recording: Lossless Compression and 14-bit
8. ISO sensitivity settings: ISO auto OFF, start at 100
9. White balance: cloudy sky, so that always the same white balance is used during the bracketing row, the correct correction we carry out later at the PC.
10. Manage Picture Control: NL (Neutral)
11. Active D-Lighting: OFF
12. Long exposure NR: OFF
13. Vignette Control: OFF
14. Auto distortion control: OFF
15. Flicker reduction: OFF
16. Auto Bracketing set: AE
17. Multiple exposure: OFF
18. HDR (high dynamic range): OFF
    Note: We want to create an HDR ourselves from the individual shots later, if we used this option, the camera would assemble an HDR itself, without us having any influence on the final result. This function is only used by people who normally take photos with their smartphone.
19. Interval timer shooting: OFF

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• KOMPATIBILITÄT: Kompatibel mit Nikon D810 D800 D750 D700 D7500 D7200 D7100 D7000 D610 D600 D500 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300...

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Settings in “Custom configuration Menu”

We leave all settings on the default values except for the following settings mentioned here:

1. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – self-timer delay: 2
2. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – number of shots: 5
3. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – interval between shots: 0.5 seconds
4. Menu area E “Bracketing & Flash” – E5 BKT order: N

Save settings permanently to Usersetting bank „U1“

In order to really save the settings we have made so far, we go back to the “SYSTEM” menu and select the memory bank „U1“ under the “Save User Settings” system menu item and confirm twice with “OK”.
If we now switch to another operating mode such as “A”, “M” or “S” or switch off the camera and then switch back to the „U1“ program, all our previously set data will be available again. Depending on the available light, we may have to adjust the exposure series properties to the lighting conditions.

Taking photos

We have now saved all settings and can make our recordings when we access the usersetting „U1“.
First we switch off the autofocus and focus manually, so that the focus does not change unintentionally during the exposure series.

When shooting with a tripod

First, turn off the image stabilizer if present on the lens. Switch to the self-timer. Now 5 shots are taken automatically within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

When shooting free hand (without a tripod)

First, turn on the image stabilizer, if present on the lens. Switch to high speed mode CH. Now, while holding the shutter-release button down, 5 shots are taken in a row within the configured exposure bracket. When HDR shooting is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S, or P mode.

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• Außenmaße: 44cm*28cm*14cm; Innenmaße: 41cm*27cm*13.5cm. Robust und wasserabweisend, zweifarbiges Nylon-Material

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Professional settings for HDR recordings from tripod saved to usersetting bank „U2“

If we really have a lot of time to shoot our HDR exposure series and take pictures from a tripod, then we should use the full spectrum of HDR functions of the D7500 to get better pictures. To do this, we use the following settings on the „U2“ bank. These settings are chosen so that the complete HDR series is recorded with sufficient waiting times between the individual shots and the mirror lock-up, so that there is no shaking movement caused by vibrations of the tripod.

General Camera settings

1. Selecting the correct operating mode:
   Turn the program selector wheel to „A”.
2. Adjust the correct aperture:
   At this point I set aperture to “8” for HDR shots and change it according to the subject and environment.
3. Setting a suitable ISO number:
   I’ll start here at ISO 100.
4. Activate the bracketing row:
   Hold down the BKT button and use the rear control dial to set “5F” for 5-step bracketing. Enter the value “1.0” as the selection for the entire step size with the front e-dial.
   As an alternative to the 5F and 1.0 bracketing above, a 0.7 to 9 step increment (range -2.8 to +2.8) can be used for a wider coverage area with finer gradation between shots.

Settings in the “Photo Shooting Menu”

1. Optional: change folder names to HDR75 (this gives us our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Optional: change file name to HDR (so we can easily distinguish HDR photos from “normal” photos by the file name)
3. Flash control: TTL (no matter, because we don’t use flash anyway)
4. Choose image area: DX
5. Image quality: RAW
6. Image size: L
7. NEF (RAW) recording: Lossless Compression and 14-bit
8. ISO sensitivity settings: ISO auto OFF, start at 100
9. White balance: cloudy sky, so that always the same white balance is used during the bracketing row, the correct correction we carry out later at the PC.
10. Manage Picture Control: NL (Neutral)
11. Active D-Lighting: OFF
12. Long exposure NR: OFF
13. Vignette Control: OFF
14. Auto distortion control: OFF
15. Flicker reduction: OFF
16. Auto Bracketing set: AE
17. Multiple exposure: OFF
18. HDR (high dynamic range): OFF
    Note: We want to create an HDR ourselves from the individual shots later, if we used this option, the camera would assemble an HDR itself, without us having any influence on the final result. This function is only used by people who normally take photos with their smartphone.
19. Interval timer shooting: OFF

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Settings in “Custom configuration Menu”

We leave all settings on the default values except for the following settings mentioned here:

1. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – self-timer delay: 2
2. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – number of shots: 5
3. Menu area C “Timers/ AE lock” – C3 self-timer – interval between shots: 0.5 seconds
4. Menu area E “Bracketing & Flash” – E5 Bracketing Order: N
5. Menu area D “Shooting/Display” – D3 Exposure Delay Mode: ON with 2 seconds
6. Optional: Menu area D “Shooting/Display” – D4 electronic Front-Curtain Shutter: ON (Use with caution. This can eliminate blur caused by the shutter motion, but should only be used with high-quality lenses. Better give it a try first, before using this feature productive.)

Save settings permanently to Usersetting bank „U2“

In order to really save the settings we have made so far, we go back to the “SYSTEM” menu and select the memory bank „U2“ under the “Save User Settings” system menu item and confirm twice with “OK”.
If we now switch to another operating mode such as “A”, “M” or “S” or switch off the camera and then switch back to the „U2“ program, all our previously set data will be available again. Depending on the available light, we may have to adjust the exposure series properties to the lighting conditions.

Take photos

As we only photograph from a tripod with these settings, we should switch off the image stabilizer if it is present on the lens. Now switch to the self-timer. Now 5 shots are automatically taken within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds and a waiting time of 4 seconds between shots. The mirror lock up is used for the reduction of shaking movements. When the HDR recording is finished, simply switch back to A, M, S or P mode.

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How to develop the HDR photo / Which Software to use

As a software for HDR merging I use Aurora HDR.
You can get yourself a free trial by clicking this link: https://skylum.evyy.net/pixelfriedhofaurorahdr

See all steps of the configuration in my video

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

My first choice as a Lightroom alternative

I’m gonna do some advertising. I’ve been dealing with all kinds of image editing software for months, comparing a lot, testing a lot and finally choosing RAW developer and Lightroom alternative Luminar.

Have a look and try the free trial version. Just click on the banner:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag HDR Settings for Nikon D7500 on Usersettings „U1“ and „U2“ erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

In my search for alternative programs, I thought I was on the right track, was disappointed, was thrilled and finally completed this project successfully.
In this article I write about why I have decided for which image processing software in the individual processes.

Why leave Photoshop and Lightroom?

We are hobby photographers. We enjoy travelling, eating, taking pictures and writing about these things. In a nutshell, we don’t make a living with our pictures. If that were the case, we would have starved to death.
Thus no expensive subscription model for Lightroom or Photoshop, which costs us monthly about 12€ per user, or in the year about 142€ tendency anually rising, pays off for us.
There had to be another way, so we started our search.

What did we need, what should the software be able to do?

When we started looking for alternatives, we first had to be clear about what we were looking for.

– Software for developing RAW files, usually a typical Lightroom application.
– Software for creating HDR images, previously solved by Lightroom and Photoshop.
– A software for manipulating image files (retouching, cropping, transforming, etc.), actually a classic application of Photoshop.

We only use Apple hardware, which is why the programs we are looking for have to run on Mac OS X. Windows users can still read on now, all the programs we have mentioned are also available for the Windows PC.

Affinity Photo – Image manipulation top, HDR and RAW development with poor performance

After a test phase of “Affinity Photo” we were enthusiastic at first. Beside an easy to understand and largely with “Photoshop” comparable operation, we had certainly found our new manipulation tool. We were also enthusiastic because “Affinity Photo” comes with functions for RAW development, HDR creation and also focus stacking functions. For about one and a half years we trusted in this “Jack of all trades” called “Affinity Photo”.

But with the use of “Affinity Photo” on the mobile Macbook (model late 2017, i5) we noticed that we had to put up with considerable waiting times. The creation of a HDR from 5 pictures takes forever, loading a RAW is faster, but the whole thing doesn’t feel really fast. Often we are slowed down excessively by loading times. During rendering processes, after using presets, the user interface can no longer be operated or only to a limited extent.

We also noticed weaknesses in the processing of ghost images in HDR, for example when people or cars moved through the image field during a shot of a street. This function somehow led to an improvement, i.e. fewer cars, but the remaining car was only half. Around the repaired, removed ghost images often ugly color fringes, shadows or artefacts form.
Affinity Photo” also does not allow you to select the reference image for HDR creation, which is then used to remove the remaining ghost images. For a long time we simply accepted these restrictions until we wanted to see if the grass on other HDR sides was greener, more about that later.

The processing of RAWs in “Affinity Photo” is good, but not as complex and detailed as that of “Lightroom”. An integrated lens database is missing, the integrated lens database from Apple is not used – a drawback.

Apart from these weaknesses, however, one must clearly say that the pure “Photoshop functions” are perfect for image manipulation. An equal replacement. Basically one can say that “Affinity Photo” is a great Photoshop replacement with a low-performance “Lightroom” and HDR attachment as a ” Goodie”.

Strengths of Affinity Photo

+ Intuitive user interface and operation
+image manipulation functions super
+ noise reduction good
+ RAW development good, although not comparable to Lightroom
+ Price

Weaknesses of Affinity Photo

– RAW loading performance
– Performance in HDR composition
– Function to remove ghost images in HDR series with bad results
– No selection of the reference image when removing ghost images in HDR rows
– No integrated lens database for lens correction
– Small range of templates for RAW development and HDR creation

Aurora 2019 – HDR production with power and AI

Some time ago there was the HDR program “Aurora 2018” from “Skylum” as a free download, since the successor “Aurora 2019” was just released. 

We used this free offer to have a look at the HDR software for the first time and were impressed by the performance and the range of functions.

Even the function to clean up ghost images works perfectly. And by “perfect” we don’t mean “better than Affinity Photo”, but “better is hardly possible” and “error-free”. Furthermore, “Aurora 2018” leaves us the choice of which reference image from the HDR series should be used for ghost removal.

HDR series were created in about a quarter of the loading time we were used from Affinity Photo and we realized that with “Aurora 2018” we were actually dealing with a full-featured HDR editor. The range of functions, the presets supplied and the level of detail in the settings knocked us over. The results were the best we’d ever achieved, with a super fast performance.

In the free version of “Aurora 2018” there was not only light, but also a little shadow. On some objects, color fringes (chromatic aberrations) were not reliably removed and on narrow, high-contrast subject components such as tram overhead lines, the 2018 version created ugly clouds and shadows. That was enough reason for us to try out the latest version “Aurora 2019” to see if these problems have been fixed and yes, the problem was already solved in the latest version.

Skylum advertises “Aurora 2019” with the use of an “artificial intelligence” (abbreviated “AI”). We don’t know whether it is actually responsible for the reliable recognition of such subjects, but the results are very good.

In 2019, almost every manufacturer who does anything with software will adorn themselves with “AI”, but only in very few applications does artificial intelligence really make sense, mostly it’s marketing bullshit, so that share prices go up, similar to buzzwords like “private blockchain” (doesn’t make sense, “private” and “blockchain” are mutually exclusive) and many other hypes. The fact is that “AI” really makes sense in image processing and image recognition, because there is potential here. We can only guess how much “AI” really is in “Aurora 2019”, and on which image areas the AI influences, because there is no transparent view about which modifications were really brought by the artificial intelligence. There is a slider that is supposed to reduce or increase the AI influence on an image, but it acts more like a filter. Anyway: The results are excellent, whether by “AI” or regular program code.

So “Aurora 2019” is our HDR editor of choice.

Strengths of “Aurora 2019

+ Intuitive user interface and operation
+ Performance with HDR composition
+ Perfect ghost removal
+ Selection of the reference image for the removal of ghost images in HDR series
+ Huge range of templates for HDR creation
+ Function for “pseudo HDR creation” from a single RAW
+ Price
+ In combination with “Luminar 3” even cheaper

Weaknesses of “Aurora 2019”

– Work of artificial intelligence (“AI”) not transparent recognizable
– Lens corrections from own, middle-class lens database, the Apple-integrated lens database works better, though

Luminar 3 – RAW development in fast, detailed and cheap

When we found “Aurora 2019” for the HDR creation for us, we also stumbled across “Luminar 3” from the same manufacturer “Skylum”. “Luminar 3” is the actual main product of “Skylum” and is promoted as a complete “Lightroom” replacement, exactly what we needed besides manipulation software and HDR editor.

Also “Luminar 3” comes with an artificial intelligence, the so-called “Accent AI 2.0”. This AI should support the photographer in the background during his RAW development. For example, people in photos are recognized and separated from the image background. This is useful if the background is to be edited dramatically, but the face of a model is to remain untouched. Also here we recognize for the first time a real sense for the topic “AI” in a software as well as first good results but also still a lot of potential.

Lens corrections can be applied directly in “Luminar 3”, but they are done with an internal lens database, whose results are slightly worse than Apple’s lens correction database integrated in Mac OSX. Here, you often have to correct the lens, but about 85% of the lens corrections are okay.

Loading and editing RAW files is really quick, long loading times hardly occur and if so, the calculations, for example when using presets, are rendered in the background and we can continue using the interface at the same time. Is there any upward potential? Sure, faster is always better, but now “Luminar 3” is the best solution in terms of performance.

The processing itself also produces very good results. We are enthusiastic about the quality of the “Noise Reduction” and “Resharpening” functions. The results are great even with poor raw materials.

Strengths of “Luminar 3

+ Performance!!! This thing is fast!
+ noise reduction excellent
+ re-sharpening functions excellent
+ Well structured, yet detailed user interface
+ Huge range of templates for RAW development
+ Price
+ In combination with “Aurora 2019” even cheaper

Weaknesses of “Luminar 3”

– Work of artificial intelligence (“AI”) not transparent recognizable
– Lens corrections from own, middle-class lens database, the Apple-integrated lens database works better, though

Conclusion – What do we now rely on in image processing and what did it cost us?

Now we use “Affinity Photo” as manipulation tool and “Aurora 2019” as HDR editor and replaced “Photoshop” with both. “Lightroom” was replaced by “Luminar 3”.
In the bundle we paid 140€ for “Luminar 3” and “Aurora 2019” and 55€ for “Affinity Photo”.

Since we got the software from the Apple Appstore, we can use the software in the family sharing with up to 6 users at the same time and without any subscription.
If you assume that you are considering an investment for a software over a period of 3 years, then for two users the following numbers are on our bill:

Adobe “Photoshop” and “Lightroom”: 2 users x 3 years x 142€ = 852€.
“Affinity Photo”, “Aurora 2019” and “Luminar 3”: 195€

Savings: 657€ (more money for travel, less money for unused subscription licenses)

Where can I buy the software?

If you want to support us, you can buy “Luminar 3” and “Aurora 2019” through these links, we get a small commission and you get a 15% discount:

Buy “Luminar 3” with 15% discount (Affiliate-Link)
Buy “Aurora 2019” with 15% discount (Affiliate-Link)
Buy Affinity Photo

Alternatively you can buy the Skylum software “Luminar 3” and “Aurora 2019” as well as “Affinity Photo” from Serif in the Apple Appstore and use the family sharing option.

Can I first test the software as a free trial?

If you want to try the software first, you can download a fully functional, but limited trial version of the software from the following links:

“Luminar 3” as demo version (Affiliate-Link)
“Aurora 2019” as demo version (Affiliate-Link)
Affinity Photo as demo version

Der Beitrag Lightroom and Photoshop replaced by alternatives – Luminar 3, Affinity Photo and Aurora 2019 do their job erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

What is HDR, what is Focus Stacking?

If you know what HDR and Focus-Stacking is, you can skip this paragraph. For everyone else, here is a rudimentary explanation:

HDR photos are characterized by a high level of detail. Normally I take 5 or at least 3 pictures of the same subject for an HDR image. For simplicity’s sake we assume three pictures.
By using different exposure settings of the camera I take three pictures:

• First shot overexposed: Dark areas of the subject are taken clearly visible, bright and normal areas are overexposed.
• Second shot normally exposed: Center areas of the subject are clearly visible, bright and dark areas are overexposed or underexposed.
• Third shot underexposed: Bright areas of the subject are clearly visible, dark and normal areas are underexposed.

The three photos I took are now combined to one picture in the HDR workflow. Thereby I reject the overexposed and underexposed areas and only assemble my picture from the well taken components.
Thus I get perfect visibility of all details, no matter if in a dark, normal or light area of the motive. If I want to capture the details even more granularly, I even take 5 shots with different exposures instead of our exemplary 3 shots.

Focus Stacking also describes a workflow in which I combine several images into one image. But this time it’s not about details, but about the sharpness of the subject.

I take three pictures by changing the focus on the lens:

• First shot with focus on objects close to the camera (almost at the close-up limit of the lens).
• Second shot with focus on objects in the medium distance range from the camera (50% of the focus bandwidth)
• Third shot with focus on objects far away from the camera (near infinity range of the lens).

From these three shots, we only combine the sharp areas to form a new image. The result is an image which is characterized by enormous sharpness in all areas. There are no more blurred areas, no bokeh.
If I want to capture the different focus areas even more granularly, I even take 5 shots with different focus instead of our exemplary 3 shots.

HDR and Focus Stacking – Taking the photographs

First we set the camera for HDR: RAW image, middle aperture, usually 8, mirror lock up active, ISO value static, 3 (or 5) bracketing row with step size 1 active).
Under this link you will find an example video of the Nikon D500 setting for HDR recordings with bracketing, if you are not so familiar with the topic yet.

Of course we make all following recordings with the tripod.

• Shooting the first HDR exposure series with focus on close-up range
• Shooting of the second HDR exposure series with focus on medium distance range
• Shooting the third HDR bracket with focus on the area far away from the camera.

It is important that no settings are changed on the camera during the above shots, not even by the camera’s built-in auto modes. Only the focus may be changed.

HDR and Focus Stacking in the Affinity Photo Workflow – The Order Makes the Difference

First we create the respective HDR combinations from the three created recordings (New HDR combination in the menu). We should avoid excessive light edges.
We start with the HDR series with the middle focus. When we have finished assigning the tone values, we save all our development settings as presets.
Now we save the finished image as a .afphoto file. We save it as 8-bit, better as 16-bit image.

After editing the first row, we take the close and wide row. When developing the images, we simply call up the previously saved preset and do not change anything else.
We also save the images of the wide and close focusing as .afphoto files.

That’s it with HDR. Now we can dedicate ourselves to the Focus Stacking.
We now load these three created .afphoto-images into the Focus Merging Stack in the File / Focus Stacking menu to merge them into one Focus Stack.

The result is a focus merge from three HDR sources. In the ideal case high detail fidelity and sharpness in all image areas.

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links. Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Affinity Photo: Create Focus Stacking Merge from HDR images erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.

Nikon D500 kaufen -> http://amzn.to/2zYOcVR (Amazon Affiliate-Link)

Here is the video showing the correct settings:

Ihre Daten werden erst beim Abspielen des Youtube-Videos an den Dienst übermittelt. Your data will only be transmitted to the service when you play the Youtube video.

And here again the menu settings in text form:

Selecting the correct operating mode

First of all we make sure that we operate the camera in mode “A“.

Photo Shooting -> Create new photo shooting menu bank for HDR

Photo Shooting Settings

1. Change Storage folder name to HDRD5 for example – (so we have our own directory for HDR photos)
2. Change file naming to HDR for example – (so we can distinguish HDR-photos already at the filename from “regular” photos)
3. Picture Quality RAW
4. Imagesize L
5. NEF RAW, lossless compression with 14-bit
6. ISO-Auto OFF, start at 100
7. White balance Cloudy
8. Active D-Lighting OFF
9. Noise Reduction with Long Time Exposure OFF
10. Vignetting Correction OFF
11. Auto distortion control OFF
12. flicker reduction OFF
13. Auto bracketing set AE

Custom settings -> Create new custom settings bank for HDR

Custom configuration settings

1. C – Timers/AE lock -> C3 Self-timer -> Self-timer delay 2
2. C – Timers/AE lock -> C3 Self-timer -> Number of shots = 5
3. Interval between shots 0.5 seconds

Enable exposure bracketing before shooting

Hold down the BKT button and use the rear dial to set 5F for exposure bracketing with 5 levels. 1.0 select for whole step size.

Switch to self-timer, and take pictures. Now 5 shots are taken automatically within the configured exposure bracket with a lead time of 2 seconds.

After the end of the HDR shooting

1. Photo capture configuration back to standard configuration
2. Individual configuration back to standard configuration
3. Hold down the BKT button and use the rear mode dial to set 0F for deactivated bracketing.

How to develop the HDR photo / Which Software to use

As a software for HDR merging I use Aurora HDR 2019.
You can get yourself a free trial by clicking this link: https://skylum.grsm.io/ENAuroraYT

My first choice as a Lightroom alternative

I’m gonna do some advertising. I’ve been dealing with all kinds of image editing software for months, comparing a lot, testing a lot and finally choosing RAW developer and Lightroom alternative Luminar 3.

Have a look and try the free trial version. Just click on the banner:

All the links in this text are Amazon Affiliate Links, and by clicking on an affiliate link I will earn a percentage of your subsequent Amazon purchases. However, this circumstance does not influence the background of my product recommendation. This product recommendation is independent, honest and sincere. 

Bei allen genannten Links in der Videobeschreibung handelt es sich um Amazon-Affiliate-Links.Durch einen Klick auf einen Affiliate-Link werde ich prozentual an Euren darauf folgenden Amazon-Einkäufen beteiligt. Dieser Umstand beeinflusst aber nicht die Hintergründe meiner Produktempfehlung. Diese Produktempfehlung erfolgt unabhängig, ehrlich und aufrichtig.

Der Beitrag Set up Nikon D500 for bracketed exposure series for HDR erschien zuerst auf Pixelfriedhof.